Help with 1st cleaver design

[Brock Cutlery]

This is my first cleaver design. I have some O1 and 52100 at 2.5 inches and suitable thickness.
I've been struggling with this handle for 3 days, and this is the best I can come up with. Maybe I'm over-thinking it?
What do you think of the design, especially the handle? Comments greatly appreciated.
Dimensions are roughly 2.5 by 10 inches

 

[Augus7us]

Your likely to get a few comments on rounding off the point at the heel. Probably a good idea if you intend on this to be a heavy use blade. If not and it will be more a looker I say keep it, it looks badass to me and I would exaggerate the curve at the butt of the handle to fall in line with the heel a bit more and I think that will round it out. Reminds me of the Gil Hibben blades I used to stare as a kid. I say make it a looker and draw that curve down at the butt. If you're forging it leave scale past the grind marks, if not try to stonewash it.

I like it!

 

[bronyblacksmith]

is it a kitchen cleaver or a camp knife that looks like a cleaver?
handle looks ok but there is way too much curve to the blade. the tip needs to be more squarish with a slightly sweeping belly.

 

[i4Marc]

Why the dip in front of the handle? I agree that a small radius at the heel would be better. I like the shape of the blade and the handle just as a design idea. If you want it to be a cleaver then some folks will have definite ideas about the proper curve for cleaving. I say why put labels on it? If you just want to make it because you like the look then just make it. The cleaver I made was designed for a specific task I had in mind so I built it to those specs. - 01 steel, 2.75" deep, 10" long and 5/16" at the spine. It is a work horse. I think for a cleaver, your design might be a bit on the small side.

 

[Brock Cutlery]

Your likely to get a few comments on rounding off the point at the heel. Probably a good idea if you intend on this to be a heavy use blade. If not and it will be more a looker I say keep it, it looks badass to me and I would exaggerate the curve at the butt of the handle to fall in line with the heel a bit more and I think that will round it out. Reminds me of the Gil Hibben blades I used to stare as a kid. I say make it a looker and draw that curve down at the butt. If you're forging it leave scale past the grind marks, if not try to stonewash it.

I like it!

Thanks Augus. I designed it primarily for lines, not function. I'm not studied enough to really know at this point what good function would require, except by instinct.
I'll play with your suggestion on the butt end and see how it looks.

 

[Brock Cutlery]

is it a kitchen cleaver or a camp knife that looks like a cleaver?
handle looks ok but there is way too much curve to the blade. the tip needs to be more squarish with a slightly sweeping belly.

It is probably more of a kitchen / camp chopper with a nod in design to the cleaver. Really, it's just a design I messed with a bit and like, fwiw.

 

[Brock Cutlery]

Why the dip in front of the handle? I agree that a small radius at the heel would be better. I like the shape of the blade and the handle just as a design idea. If you want it to be a cleaver then some folks will have definite ideas about the proper curve for cleaving. I say why put labels on it? If you just want to make it because you like the look then just make it. The cleaver I made was designed for a specific task I had in mind so I built it to those specs. - 01 steel, 2.75" deep, 10" long and 5/16" at the spine. It is a work horse. I think for a cleaver, your design might be a bit on the small side.

The dip in front of the handle just seems to balance the lines to my eye. I tried it without and I wasn't happy with it.
You cleaver looks like a work horse. Very nice work too.
I will go ahead with this after a few more tweaks. If nothing, I'll learn by it. Thanks for taking the time to comment Marc.

 

[Fish30114]

Heck, I like it--it would work well for me on some of the cooking prep work I do. If I was you I would just build it and see how you like it.

 

[Brock Cutlery]

Heck, I like it--it would work well for me on some of the cooking prep work I do. If I was you I would just build it and see how you like it.

I'm not sure how long it will take me, I've got two grinds ahead of it, but I'll document it here as I go.

Which would be best: 52100 or O1?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

This is my first cleaver design. I have some O1 and 52100 at 2.5 inches and suitable thickness.
I've been struggling with this handle for 3 days, and this is the best I can come up with. Maybe I'm over-thinking it?
What do you think of the design, especially the handle? Comments greatly appreciated.
Dimensions are roughly 2.5 by 10 inches

I would call that a "Western Deba". It looks like a blade that will chop and cut well for heavier tasks, like breaking down proteins. There are two features you should change, IMHO. If left like it is it will bite you over and over again...perhaps severely.

 

[Brock Cutlery]

I would call that a "Western Deba". It looks like a blade that will chop and cut well for heavier tasks, like breaking down proteins. There are two features you should change, IMHO. If left like it is it will bite you over and over again...perhaps severely.

I see what you mean by Western Deba Stacy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5s6Ag9OwZ4 My shape is just different. The blade would function roughly the same. Thanks for mentioning that.
I respect your opinion very much. What would you change?