Help with A Bark River Convex Grind!

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Oct 25, 2010
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I have a lot of experience with sharpening knives with a bevel edge. I can get them shaving sharp. I have never ventured into the convex grind world.

I recently purchased a Bark River Bushcrafter II. It has a convex scandi grind on it. It is my first convex grind knife so now it is time to learn! I have done a lot of research. Including these two sites that I think are excellent starter guides.

http://brkca.com/convex.htm
https://www.knivesshipfree.com/knife-sharpening-videos/

I stocked up on supplies including a nice Le Valley wood backed strop, polishing compound, mouse pads, and fine grit sandpaper. (I started using the strop to polish my beveled edges and WOW, what a difference. Takes the sharpness to a new level!)

I didn't want to start on my Bark River so I found a practice knife. I have a Condor Bushlore. I was disappointed with the edge retention of the scandi grind on it so i put a convex grind on it. It turned out really well and very sharp.

Now for the Bark River. Out of the box it had a descent edge. I ran it along a marker to see what angle it would bite at. The edge grabs the marker at about a 20-25 degree angle. I used this as the angle to hold the knife at to polish the edge.

I worked the knife through a couple of very fine grits of sand paper (1500 and 2500). Then two grits of polish on the strop. It got sharper but not shaving sharp. I put sharpie on the blade to make sure I was holding the knife at the right angle.

I took the knife camping and it worked well. It cut rope well and would hog wood off a log. It was a little weak on fine carving. After 5 days of use the edge held very well with no real decrease in sharpness and no damage at all.

When I got home I repeated the convex polishing process. Sandpaper up to strop. Again, a slight increase in sharpness but it did not get shaving sharp.

What am I doing wrong?
1) It's V3 steel. Maybe I need to go a little courser on the sand paper and work it a little longer because the steel is so tough?
2) Maybe I need to thin the blade out a little? However, I want to believe BR knows there knives and steels and the edge they put on is the right one.
3) This is a working knife, I want a tough strong edge. Maybe I need to sacrifice a little sharpness for strength. (However, I have gotten 50 degree inclusive bevels shaving sharp)

I hope this made sense? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
I sharpen convex blades 'backwards', freehand. That is, instead of stroking against the hone edge forward, I pull it backwards. That and natural wrist action to rotate the blade slightly seems to work for me. The Lee Valley strop works very well.
 
I'd use some magnification to look for microbevels. I've had purported full convex edges come with tiny microbevels on one or both sides. That would prevent the sandpaper and stropping from being as effective.
 
Thanks for the input!

I strop by pulling the blade (edge last). Just like in the links I posted above.

Forgot to mention...I have several jewelers lenses that I use to make sure I am in the correct location. I am positive I am polishing the very edge. I also us a sharpie to colour the edge to make sure.
 
Get rid of the mouse pads. They are too soft and make the edge round, not sharp. (Don't ask me how I know this). Use another layer of leather or a piece of linoleum. You want something with just enough give in it so as not to be called "hard".

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
I sharpen convex blades 'backwards', freehand. That is, instead of stroking against the hone edge forward, I pull it backwards. That and natural wrist action to rotate the blade slightly seems to work for me. The Lee Valley strop works very well.

Im confused... isn't that how you strop??
 
I use forward strokes on a bench stone with a bit of wrist roll.

Point your YouTube viewer to virtuovice's channel. More Bark River sharpening than you can believe.

"Hello, knife people!"
 
I use forward strokes on a bench stone with a bit of wrist roll.

Point your YouTube viewer to virtuovice's channel. More Bark River sharpening than you can believe.

"Hello, knife people!"
That guy totally captivates me. It's like YouTube hypnosis! LOL

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
I have MANY Bark Rivers, enough that it may be called an obsession. :D I don't think you're doing anything basically wrong. Start with a much coarser grit wet/dry paper, maybe 400. Hold a higher angle than you think looks reasonable. I don't know how you measured an angle, since convex is a curve and the BC is a "Scandivex", a continuous curve from the flat. Use NO pressure... only the weight of the knife resting on the sharpening media, as you drag it across the surface. With 3V it takes a while. The guy who said toss the mouse pad because it rounds the edge, is applying way too much pressure.

Having said that, I found on my ( multiple ) Bushcrafter's & BC II that the edge is on the thick side as it comes from BR. As you said, it feels sharp but doesn't seem to have that 'bitey' sharp feel. Take a hint from the angle you need to hold it in order to get it to bite into the wood to shave curls off. I thinned mine, as you will read in the next paragraph.

Now, having said all that, I sharpen on a 1x42" kalamazoo belt sander to start with. Every knife gets sharpened when it arrives, or at least before use. The factory edges are never, or almost never, even all the way to the tip. They get steeper as they get to curve of the blade. The belt sander is way quicker than any other method and I've been doing it for quite a while. It's not a steep learning curve and quickly learned.

I usually start with a 400 grit abrasive belt to quickly establish the profile I want then switch to CBN on linen belts and go from 80um down to 4.5um, which is supposedly around 4000 grit. They sell way finer stuff and the kitchen guys go crazy.

Field honing or quick touch ups are done on a leather strop with black compound. My field kit is the pre-loaded leather and a piece of 400 and 1000 grit w/d paper, in case I bump something hard and compound would take too long, all in a ziploc baggie. Fits in a shirt pocket, but usually in my pack. I almost never need to use it in the field. As you found, your edge lasted your five day trip.
 
Don, thanks for the feedback! That's the kind of real world advice I was looking for. I wasn't getting that "bitey" holy crap that's a sharp knife feel and the angle it bit into wood seemed very large.

Time to thin the blade.

I've watched a bunch of virtuovice videos. He has a lot of theories and demos.
 
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I sharpen convex blades 'backwards', freehand. That is, instead of stroking against the hone edge forward, I pull it backwards. That and natural wrist action to rotate the blade slightly seems to work for me. The Lee Valley strop works very well.
Same here Ed and air bleeding sharp I'll say. :thumbup:
 
I'm on the road with work so I had some time to kill. Watched a few more Virtuovice videos. Came across this one on reprofiling a convex 3V Bark River knife.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Lc6NLpYBho

He has a theory that Bark River is putting a very blunt radius on their knives made from "chippy" steels. Thus reducing the amount of chipping and warranty rework. Regardless of why, my knife definitely had this issue. It had to be stopped at a "ridiculously large" angle to polish the apex.

I brought my gear with me and have thinned out my Bushcrafter II. It didn't take much and it is now shaving sharp! Thanks for the advice!
 
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