Help With Electro Etch

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Dec 7, 2000
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A friend is bringing over a high end electric etching machine by the brand name Ossling. It's apparently an industrial machine made in Germany.

Anyway, we want to etch some 440A factory kitchen blades. Neither of us has a clue. I guess there's a book that came with the machine but Steve still hasn't had any success getting a good etch.

Can someone give me a rundown on the process? I also need to know the most likely solution to use, as there are several available (I do not know what they are and I don't think Steve does either, though I expect they are marked.)

So you get the picture: We're ignorant and need a quick block of instruction here. :rolleyes:

I'd sure appreciate any help. He will be here mid morning today (Friday).

Dave
 
Dave, First, do you have stencils? For kitchen knives I have used ballpoint on a piece of stencil material, makes a decent signature logo. Your friend may not have used the right etch liquid, or power selection, or pad was not damp enough(you don't want it sopping wet). Also, was his gator clamp making good contact? I played around with my machine to get a good mark and etch. My wife has my machine packed away with mountain of stuff that goes into the new shop. Of course, the booklet is packed away with it. One setting marks, the other etches. I use both, makes a really great logo. By the way, I still have that machine for you that I got at the gov't auction. I e-mailed the mfg. for instructions, havn't heard back anything on it. You will have to play with it.You have any scrap to practice on for the machine you guys have there? Next time I see you I'll have this stuff gathered up for you, friend. By the way, I remember the instructions saying you can use a typewriter on the stencil material.Your friend's etch liquid may not be the right stuff, or maybe contaminated or old.
 
John, thanks. I hadn't considered his solution might be too old, that is possible as it's been sitting in a warehouse for at least a couple years. I did find Bob Warner's page on building an etching machine that included some basic instructions.

I have a few blanks of the knives we're going to mark so will experiment on them. How should the surface be prepared?

I'm looking forward to having my own etching machine! Don't know when I'll get to your neck of the woods again, maybe you'll come visit here soon?! [a rather broad hint, wouldn't you say? :D ]

Dave
 
PS John, we do have stencils, and I believe they are good. Using the ballpoint pen signature sounds intersting...since the knives we're planning to mark are prototype handle jobs I worked up for him this week, I might just slip my initials in... ;)

I sure hate working Corian though! I keep saying "Never again!" and I keep doing whatever I'm asked. :rolleyes:

Dave
 
just wanted to add, the stencils you are talking about are one time stencils. They don't provide good repetitive etches. one way to get good impressions on them is to use an electric typwritter set on the white stencil setting. That allows you to type on the stencil without going through the ribbon. Many mechanical typewriters have this setting also.
 
My first etch experience was per the bob engath plans and instructions, which I believe is out there on his web site still. But my homemade solution was distilled water 1 cup heat it and disolve plain salt into it ad salt just to the point that no more can disolve. It worked ok but i bought a big bottle of etchant from one of the knife suppliers that was a broad range product I dont notice a difference.
 
Well, I just learned something new again. I've been throwing away the scap pieces of stencil material that I trimmed my stencils out of. I better start saving those scaps.

Glad I looked at this thread.

Roger
 
So this is an Ostling machine, as opposed to "Ossling." It's pretty nice! The book was very high level - not very instructive, so I just started playing around with it. This thing is programmable for power and time, and has a foot switch to activate the cycle. Pretty cool.

Now the uncool part; this machine will not switch directly from DC to AC, so you can't easily etch away some metal then color it. You have to set it up for one or the other. The book stated different pads for on vs the other even; a black felt pad with a thin net over it for coloring in AC and a green felt pad held on with an O-Ring for DC etching.

I think one could simply switch from DC to AC, but my question is whether I should try to find the green felt? And presumably it's thinner than the 1/8" thick black felt? I'm asking this because I'm not entirely sold on the simple surface color it's set up for now; I'd like to do like Bruce Evans and Bob Warner, etch deeply then color it.

Comments?
 
I have been using a Marking Methods machine for the last 20 years. It just uses a thick white felt pad. The handpiece is called a deep etch handpiece. Basically it is a block of carbon, set in lucite, or some other type of plastic, and you just flip a couple of switches to go between AC/DC, regular etch/deep etch. I would guess that you would not have any problems using felt pads from an Americam Mfg. Lectro Etch would be a good place to try, as Marking Methods has been getting hard for many makers to deal with. The pads I use have nothing over them, or in them. They are just white felt, about 1/4" thick.
http://www.lectroetch.com/

Edited to add; You might call Lectroetch, and talk to someone about the machine you are using. They started the whole etching metals thing. I am sure they are familiar with the competitions methods, and products.:eek: :D
 
Dave, I just found that machine I have for you. It's a Monode marking machine, date of mfg. unknown. Also, wife and I were just talking about taking a trip to your place soon. I'll have that stuff loaded up for you, too. You get that etcher working yet?
 
Mike that's a good idea, I will check them. I'll also see about stencil material.

John, sounds great! Yeah, I got it working so will have to give it back eventually... :) I'm going to build Bob Warner's photo exposure unit soon to get set up to make my own stencils. I may eventually get away from stamping my mark altogether.

Dave
 
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