Help with full tang etched blade construction...

G

gudspelr

Joined
Jul 1, 2013
Messages
451
I've got some full tang knives in the shop, nearly rough ground and ready for HT. There are a couple 5160 blades, a 15N20, and a Damascus one of 1080/15N20. Most will be getting wood scales, maybe one some synthetic (G10 or Micarta).

My question is how do you guys put together the handle scales if you etch the blade? If I finish and etch the blade, then glue on the scales (Acraglas) with pins, how do I go about not messing up the etch? I know there has to be a way...

One thing that comes to mind is to somehow shape the scales before they're attached permanently-never tried to do that before and not entirely certain the best way to go about it. But even so, there's still the epoxy problem. I also thought about sanding down the scales to match the tang (knowing the etch will be messed up)and then trying to somehow etch the tang with a q-tip or something, but that also seems to have some definite problems that could come up...

I may likely be over thinking things, but was hoping the folks here could set me straight. Thanks for any advice.

Jeremy
 
The only way I know to do this is to install locating pins and screw the scales to the tang. After you have the handles shaped remove the scales and etch. when you put the scales back on you can either use the screws or drill out the holes and install pins.
 
Jeremy, One way I have approached handles on Damascus is to etch only the blade since I type out my logo and put it on the spine because Damascus id to beautiful and expensive to put my logo on it and it always looks off to me to see logos on beautiful Damascus.

Another way is to pre shape your scales as you mentioned and even bring then in about 1/4" or more so you can see the etched Damascus and "file work?" all around the edges. As far as epoxy goes, I use mechanical fasteners like Loveless, corbys & peened pins.
The epoxy is to seal out moisture and you just have to be careful, you can stipple the insides of the scales if you want more bonding strength from the epoxy.

That's how I do my etching and handles. Does that help at all?
 
Thank you very much for the helpful information. I'd pondered having the blade etched and ending up with the edges all the way around not. Just not that sure it would look right...? Guess it just depends.

In regards to finishing the scales prior to etching and attaching... I was wondering what you guys might think of this. I have some pretty stout double sided tape that I could put on both sides of the tang and use some indexing pins to ensure the scales were in the right spot. Then go to finishing, peel them off along with the tape, then etch? In theory, I should be able to put them back on without the tape and be just about on...I think...? Mr. Burke-do you think that would be "reasonable"? I'm not sure I have the means at the moment to do the screw method, but that one does sound like a good plan for future reference.

Thanks again for the helpful input.

Jeremy
 
Depending on handle material: You can also attach the scales and finish it all out then go back with a q-tip and FeCl and etch the spine. Not ideal but certainly doable if you don't have a lighter colored or acid reaftive handle/liner/spacer material on the knife.

Personally I use pins (I like sacrificial aluminum pins, rigid but grind easily) to locate the handles and finish them out. No glue necessary if the pins are good and tight to all three items. But a single drop of super glue is easy tk bust loose if needed...Then I pull the handles and finish the blade. Then final attach the handles. If prepped and finished properly there is no gap or lip. Some will say to overdrill pin holes in the tang to allow for some locating during glue-up, but obviously the way I do it requires the holes to be dead nuts to the pins. You want zero play...

-Eric
 
Jeremy, Use either hidden pins or locating pins. That is one of the easiest ways. We use hidden pins to locate spacers behind guards. Just think of it that way. Then you can epoxy up the scales and install exposed pins and peen them proud. Hope that makes sense. You can also use screws as Bill suggested. Good luck with the project.

Please show us pics when finished.

Bing
 
if your double sided tap is relatively strong the possibility exists that you will break the scales pealing them off. I have tried a drop of super glue which works most of the time but about the time you break one side of a fifty dollar set of scales you decide to try something else. there is another way to use screws that doesn't require tapping a small hole. you cans use 1/8th inch folder pivots. drill an 1/8th inch hole in the tang and the appropriate counter sunk hole in the scales. If you take care to get screws with heads that are 1/8th inch or less you can use 1/8th inch pins to finish. put the pivots in the tang holes and then put the screws in the pivots. use locating pins. finish the handle remove the scales, etch the blade and tang drill out the screw holes to 1/8th inch or bigger if needed install the pins.
 
Great info from all of you, thanks very much.

Mr. Burke-you bring up a very important thing I hadn't thought of with the tape. It is really strong stuff a friend gave me and I could definitely see the scales potentially getting stuck. I appreciate the heads up so I didn't end up yelling things in the shop the neighbors may not have wanted to hear should I have tried it... :).

Bing-I'll definitely get some photos posted up as I go along. I think this was just something I kind of took for granted until I actually tried doing it. Then the head scratching started... So much for doing things the "easy" way ;).

Jeremy
 
Bill Burke is right, I broke a scale tapping it off of a superglue bond on the tang, and that is not a happy moment. I use 1/16" locating pins in addition to the main handle fasteners, but I think I will be trying that method of using a barrel pivot soon.
 
If you use the pin-shape-etch-reattach method, use a slow cure epoxy for final glue-up. That will allow you to clean up any excess epoxy before it starts to setup. One of the many benefits of quality epoxy.
 
On a similar note how would you do a full tang knife with a hammered forged finish? How would you keep from losing the finish(seeing as you can't ''re-do") like Murray Carter's neck knife.
I pick up some good ideas here thanks.
 
I don't know if this would work, but it just popped into my head... you could use jewellers wax, the really hard green kind. Melt it, and use it in the place of epoxy. Then when you are done shaping and ready for final fit& finish, heat up the tang with a heat gun and the scales should pop right off... you weekly's have to use just the right amount of wax, or it'll create too much of a gap between the scales and the tang...
 
More good advice. I use Acraglas, which sets up pretty slow, so that ought to help with clean up on the tang. I've never heard of jewelers wax, but may be worth looking into down the road.

Thank you again for all the help.


Jeremy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top