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Help with steel analysis

M

mdoyle

Joined
Feb 10, 2006
Messages
1,005
HI All,
I imagine most remember Alan Molstad's post a while back about the trackhoe bearings he got at work and planned to forge into knives. I received one of said bearings yesterday in the mail and tested it last pm @ work. I cannot find a steel that positively matches the numbers in my limited material, so I was hoping one of the experts could help. It appears fairly close to 1050 but with high Si, and some V and Mo thrown in. My specs for 1050 aren't very inclusive but I don't believe it to be plain ol' 1050. Perhaps some help for AL and myself, and maybe some HT #'s as well? Incidentally, I cut the bearing in half for testing with a band saw so no chance of loss of carbon thru decarb. I also etched the test piece this morning and it does not appear to be case hardened.
TH bearing:
C 0.484
Mn 0.75
P 0.006
S 0.017
Si 0.25
Ni 0.08
Cr 0.10
Mo 0.018
V 0.057

Thank You in advance,
Matt Doyle
 
That's just 1050 .The C and Mn are within range and everything else is in 'trace' amount levels.
 
I'm not sure of the application but 1050 would not be a bearing that would be suitable for heavy use .Load carrying capacity, fatigue life, type of bearing ,etc must all be considered.
 
1050?

......

1050!!!!!!!!!!!....I can deal with 1050!
I made the best KATANA I ever saw out of 1050....

OK,,,now lets talk,
Lets say i want to just make a few "Ed Fowler" type hunting knives, Lets say i want to do the heat-treatments with a O/A torch that way Ed does too...
QUESTION - can I quench in oil as I did with my John Deere 5160 steel?

QUESTION - when I use 5160 , I etch the blade, but I dont end up with very showy hammon, My 1050 water-quenched Katana has a monster hammon..
Could I heat the blade with a O/A torch as Foweler does, but dunk the clay coated blade in water to get the showy hammon?

QUESTION - any difference between the way i oil quench my 5160 and the way a guy should oil quench 1050?
 
I with to publicly thank mdoyle for helping me out...

I also wish to thank everyone else who has been so helpfull.

Im a new bladesmith and it's nice to have you guys on the forum to offer advice whenever I have a question!
 
I guess what I'm really asking is,,,,can I use this steel, and use it in the way I have learned with 5160, AND end up with a blade just as good?

I want to make blades that will not let me down...
Are there any concerns or drawbacks if I were to compare my 5160 knife with a future 1050 knife of mine?

Everyone says that 5160 makes a strong knife that will bend before it will break.
What about 1050 knives?

Whats the good part of 1050 steel for a knife?
Whats it got in it's corner that would get guys to use it?
 
A 5160 blade will be a bit harder than a 1050 blade. 5160 will have more spring. Both should make an excellent blade.1050 is a popular sword steel.
 
I have never worrked with 1050 that I know of.
I would suggest that you do some experimenting with it and see how it performs.
I talked to Rex tonight, he may have some 52100 worked down.
 
Good advice ED and guys.....

I have to try to use it.
After all, I took home this LIFETIME supply of it!

QUESTION....1050 , clay coated, water-quenched - or- 52100 oil quenched.
After etch what steel has the best chance for the most pop-out your eyes hammon lines?
 
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