help with welding

SVanderkolff

SVanderkolff

Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Messages
979
I am attempting to make a butt cap with a coupling nut welded to the inside to attach to the threaded rod inside the handle. I am using a piece of flat 416 as the butt plate and attempting to weld the coupling nut to one side. Each time I try the nut comes off of the 416 when I tighten the butt plate. I have a micro welder. it uses 1/16 to 5/32 rods and plugs into a standard outlet. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Steve
 
Is your hardware zinc coated or stainless? Which rod did you use? Assuming its a stick welder.

Would it be easier to thread the butt cap? you only need 3-5 threads contacting for a good mechanical fit.
 
Last edited:
Grind everything before the weld. Weld stainless to stainless. Use enough heat, and preferably a gas shield. Recess the nut a tad in a shallow hole and then weld. It will fuse/fill better that way.
 
SVanderkolff said:
I am attempting to make a butt cap with a coupling nut welded to the inside to attach to the threaded rod inside the handle. I am using a piece of flat 416 as the butt plate and attempting to weld the coupling nut to one side. Each time I try the nut comes off of the 416 when I tighten the butt plate. I have a micro welder. it uses 1/16 to 5/32 rods and plugs into a standard outlet. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Steve
Click to expand...

The way I read that, it's a very small arc welder

They have very little ability to generate heat.


1/16 rods are so small, they burn so fast and are so flimsy wiggly, I have never had success with them.


cleanliness is everything.
Galvanizing is bad, must be ground wall away


What rod are you using ?

Stainless rod like 309 should weld mild to stainless

I'd use 3/32"
I'm not sure that your machine could do that- check the amperage

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/calculators/stick_amperage_calculator.php
You probably want 70 amps ish


What size of nut ?
 
Steve
Have you done any high temperature silver soldering? About 1200 degrees, I believe. This can be a very easy way to go for this job.
Frank
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the help.
I wanted to avoid using a threaded butt cap in order to avoid the threads showing.
I have turned the outside layer off the 1/4 20 coupling nut and surface ground the 416 plate so there should be no galvanizing.
I am using a 1/16 general purpose stick.
There is no way to set an amperage on my little welder.

I do have a box of 3/32 sticks that I can try . If that doesn't work I will go with the threaded butt cap.
Thanks again for the help.
Steve
 
You have a lot going on there. 416 is a martensitic stainless steel, and is also a high sulpher, free machining grade. You're trying to weld it to a carbon steel nut, from what I understand. All these things combine to make it pretty difficult. Unless you are a very experienced welder, you could thread a handful of pieces before getting the combination of variable right to have it hold by welding. There shouldn't be any galvanizing on the 416, but grind it anyway. Any part of the coupling nut that contacts the weld or butt cap should be cleaned of galvanizing. Zinc and stainless don't mix.
 
I'm sure this can be done by arc welding, but if you have any sort of access to an oxy-acetlyene
torch the "hard solder" silver braze that Frank mentioned will be very satisfactory.
Ken.
 
I would prefer using gas welding as well. If the butt plate is thin enough you could likely do it with a propane torch, but it would take some time.

My best guess would be the rod. As I understand it you need specific rod for specific stainless steels. Not just the filler metal but the shielding on the rod is made for stainless.

There are "maintenance rods" that claim to do everything, but I've not used them.
 
Have you tried a preheat and post-weld heat treatment? Preheat to 400 F, then post heat treat to 1200 F for 2 hours.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top