Henckels project knife, maybe?

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roadkill7205

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Apr 6, 2013
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Hi folks. One of my Zwillings seems to have elected to shed its scales, and I've noticed that cracks are appreaing at the pins on another one as well (same place as what happened in the photos below, in fact). I've just closed the deal to buy a nice knife of the same size off another member here, but as I've been searching for a woodlore clone -- or anyone left who's taking orders, at least -- an idea has started to form about maybe trying my hand at doing some grinding.

Which made me think that maybe a re-handle and maybe a blade rejuve of my kitchen knife would give me a low-grade look at what I might be getting myself into.

So I'm thinking of maybe some teak scales or something, plus a high-shine treatment on the blade. I have a bunch of questions, though:

Is it a good idea to put spacers on the scales? I have a few ideas about colours, but I don't want to be putting them on if there's a reason not to use them for kitchen cutlery.

All I have is a Dremel. No bandsaw, no grinders, no belt sander. Am I asking for trouble? SHould I try to find a friend with some bigger guns in the tool department?

To gloss up the blade, I have a vague idea about using several kinds of sandpaper in wet and dry, but that's about it. I'm thinking 100/220/320/400 and uh... 600? That doesn't sound like I'll get to a high-gloss finish, though. I'm thinking I'll YouTube it for the how-to, but I just want to know if I'd be going in the wrong direction by doing it to a kitchen knife.

This sounds like a fun project, but I don't want to blow a perfectly usable knife, you know?

Thanks for reading!

EDIT: Oh, pics:



 
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I say have at it. I made my first knife at age 15 from grinding away at a kitchen knife and copper riveting red oak scales on it. Cant say it was beautiful but it sure was fun! It will be too thin steel wise probably for much vigorous work, but will be useable I would guess.
Plenty of great knives have been made with the same equipment you have. As far as spacers are concerned, as long as they are quality product and not porous stuff, or if they are make sure they are impregnated with the epoxy, then no sweat. Otherwise its just another area for germs to hide.
As far as a mirror finish, 3000 grit area is where you would ideally end up. 600 going unidirection makes a great kitchen knife finish that doesn't show scratches and looks great. To sand and then polish, start low and end high. Support your paper with a really sturdy backer (I use mild steel) and make sure you have your blade solidly secured. The factory finish looks like you could probably get away with starting at 400-600. Can't really tell from pics.... If that's the case, work unidirectionally up to 1000, then start working cross grain up to 2500. From there, a good cutting compound (the car stuff works fine if you don't have other) to a final finish glaze compound. For polishing I use red then straight to white, then a glaze and have nice mirror finish from that. I know guys that do more, and their finishes are beautiful and deeper than deep, so maybe they will chime in with some tricks if that's the desired result. For my users I usually go for brushed finish or some sort of treatment...
Have fun with it, that's the most important thing!
 
don't forget to finish the front of your new scales before glueing them on
Just go for it!
 
Yeah, I saw that about the front of the scales on the YouTubez last night. I hadn't even thought of that...

For the blade, I'll definitely look at getting some finer grit sandpaper, thanks for the info. I definitely don't want to remove any surface-- or at least not more than happens during a polish. The blade's not damaged.

I think I'll first take off the old scales to see how things look and to keep from letting this slide. I'll let you guys know once I've done that.
 
What is the overall size and thickness of the blade? With a little heat and a slight downward bend of the tang, notching and addition of a guard and hidden tang treatment that would make a wicked camp knife.. One of the nice long cooking, filleting, slicing type...
Interested to see how this one comes out! Cheers.
 
Okay, I replied to this thread a couple of days ago, but my post isn't here? Maybe I was a little too enthusiastic on the shut down or something.

I'll check again, but I seem to remember the blade being thin. Like, 1.6 mm thin.

I'll get back to you when I'm home. This damned phone is autocorrections me right to madness.
 
No worries, just wondered what possibilities I might be able to throw your way. It does sound like fun none the less...
 
Hi. Okay, I measured it. Yes, the blade is 1.6 mm thick and 27.3 mm from edge to edge right at the back near the handle.


This weekend, I think I'm going to go get a bunch of Dremel bits and remove the remaining scales to start with.

Also, the skipper of a sailboat I sometimes crew on has offered me some of the old teak from the deck, if we can find enough that isn't completely wrecked. Might be nice. I'm hoping to take a look at it soonish.
 
That will be fairly thin for a woodsy type of knife but with a little reshaping could make a great in-camp style cooking knife. I have a knife for that purpose that is near the same thickness. It is ground to have a multi-use type blade with a good flat section, a good round belly for rocking through a slice, and a nice sharp tip. It is treated and tempered to be fairly flexy so it can also be used as a paring knife. If it wasn't buried in the camp totes I would take a pic.
I use it for so much more than just cooking though, a lot like I consider a traditional camp knife actually.
The teak will be really cool. Sometimes its the gnarliest, nastiest sections that make the best scales. We use a very small section of the wood for knife scales and can treat it to harden it up and fill the holes. This means we can show off the beautiful flaws that make things unique and wonderful... If it was a sea fairing boat, despite the water, it will be very very dry wood. And probably salt laden. And provided it wasn't submerged even freshwater decking should be very very dry and still have some natural salts and minerals in the wood from evaporation.
You could stick with the nautical theme from the teak and make a good deck and galley type knife. (I tend to think something similar to a camp knife...) Basically just a shortened and stubbed up chef's knife. Use brass pins and brass snaps on the sheath. Dark brown leather for the sheath distressed to match the scales and a natural hemp look thread to stitch it. Maybe even tool a pattern that evokes a sense of the water... (not like little fish and crabs and stuff but like wavey or bubbly traditional patterns.)
Sorry, I tend to get carried away... Keep us updated with the build. I am sure it will come out unique and cool.
 
I should be getting my hands on some of that teak next week. I'll be interested to see what I get. Part of me wants to put spacers even though its a kitchen knife. I'll decide when I see the wood in person. Today I picked up some epoxy, and will try to go get some deemed bits tomorrow.

Heh, SWMBO put the kabosh on me grinding one of our kitchen knives into a different shape. If this works out, though, I might have a go at this:

null_zps3b81d2de.jpg


At the moment I'm just trying to get the supplies together for the kitchen knife rejuve, though. It's strangely tough to find super-fine sandpaper around here.
 
I like the looks of that profile... looks like a classic bird and troutish type blade.

Check auto parts places. They have fine grit paper all the way up to 2500-3000 usually... I get most of mine from a paint and body supplier here (automotive paint) as he gives me a discount. They should have polishing compound as well.
 
LucyCustomKnives said:
I like the looks of that profile... looks like a classic bird and troutish type blade.

Check auto parts places. They have fine grit paper all the way up to 2500-3000 usually... I get most of mine from a paint and body supplier here (automotive paint) as he gives me a discount. They should have polishing compound as well.
Click to expand...

Ah jeez, why didn't I think of that? I'll check it out, thanks.

The knife template is a straight-up woodlore, which I got from uuuuh... I don't remember, actually. It was a UK-based forum.
 
I think it may be where it is laying flat and picture is at an angle, didn't look like a 'lore... Second look letting my mind's eye work it I can see that. Good luck!
WIP thread??
 
Yep, I think a WIP thread would be a good idea. I got some Dremel bits and sandpaper today. Now just waiting on the wood for the scales.
 
Still waiting on the wood, as the skipper of the boat put his back out, so we haven't met up recently. And now the missus has asked that I verify that Henckels doesn't have a lifetime warranty before I dig in. I've sent an email to find out-- and started scoping the local second-hand shops for a replacement project knife, just in case.
 
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