Here Are Some Preliminary Drawings Of A Large Mudder Handled INFI Drop Point.

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Thanks for finding that pic 🤘🍺🤘
 
Will this knife come with infi? I'm asking because I don't know whether to block the money.
 
How about no choil and an optional custom choil kit (a sharpie and a dremel grinding head)?

Seriously, the balance on this knife will mean you'll probably want to choke up for detail work, but you can do that on the flat of the no-choil option, and if you do need a choil, it's not difficult to fashion one exactly how you want it.
 
Small choil please.

No choil is so so very ugly.
I have used lots and lots of knives that have small coils or sharpening notches as they are called in some circles, and have not experienced this snagging some are talking about ?
Maybe I am using the knives wrong ? ;)

Secondly, I remember when everyone was clamoring for no choil when the Anorexic Boss Street and Boss Jacks came around
And Busse made a bunch of them. I think Blade 08 or so?
Guess what the hardest to sell models of the Boss Street and Boss Jack are.
I even saw several people turning their tags back at that show because they did not want them/or figured they could not sell them.

On the Gladius and FMv-14, the only small complaint I have ever had on them was the lack of sharpening notches
It really Makes them look incomplete
The FM V-8 has them and they are beautiful

Artist in me thinks no choil is ugly
User in me has not noticed small choils snagging on things.
Again I might be using them wrong ?

large choil or square notch is very snaggy, with square notch having the advantage of less snagginess.

My .02
 
Put me firmly in the camp of having a choil. I will no longer buy Spyderco knives that don't have a sharpening choil, even though a lot of Spyderco knives have a finger rest built into the blade (like the Native, or the Military). No choil is a non-starter for me.
I have always used knives with choils. The only time I have ever had a problem with a choil was on Fallkniven blades that I used for field-dressing deer. Almost invariably, the choil would get stuck on the hide when opening up the body cavity. A little work with a dremel, and the vertical front-edge of the choil became a slant, and I've never had another problem.
I've used larger choiled knives for the same work, and never had a problem. Now admittedly, if the knife had no choil... the hide snagging wouldn't be a problem at all. But, I just can't abide by that design.
My favorite is the large flat choil. Or flat-ish, like on the TGULB. And the Scrapper 5. Scrapper 5 has to be one of my all-time favorites.
 
Large choil please, depending on the overall dimensions. If the blade is 5" or less then small choil.
 
CHOIL PROS AND CONS

Ease of Sharpening
A choil makes shapening the heel easier and prevents grinding into the plunge during sharpening and recurves that forms in avoiding grinding into the plunge.

Choke-up Position
Shifting the grip forward generates a more nuetral balance on a front heavy knife, and reduces tourque generated by th weight of the knife.
A more forward grip enhances precise control over the tip. I found the ehancement significant even on a short blade, for example on the spyderco Manix 2, I found the choil and ramp allow me to make very fine cuts with the tip easily.



Loss of Cutting Edge
Choil reduces cutting edge length.

Leverage Disadvantage
In hard push cutting, low contact area of the choil region results in high pressure making it impractical, so I have to move back on to the handle. Then I am forced to cut farther from the index finger which is the pivot and the leverage of the resistance is greater.

Snagging
This is a potential issue, but me personally have never experienced it.
I think snagging doesn’t happen in wood working or food prep, possible when cutting fibrous material like cord/rope.
Generally, just don’t put the cord in the choil then there would be no problem.
If repeated cutting through fibrous material is required, and snagging became inevitable, it would be an issue.


Loss of Durability
This is rarely an issue, but I have seen knives with very sharp(stress riser) or very deep(1inch deep) choils.
Other than such extreme cases, it would not be an issue.
 
I would like a small choil, because in my opinion: it offers almsot all the advantages of a choil on this knife with few disadvantage mentioned above .

Ease of sharpening adds significantly to ease of maintenance.

As for tip control, it is not important on this knife beacause it has a broad tip for a generous amount of slicing belly , not for delicate tip work(eg. those pointy spydercos).

In terms of carving, It is better to carve with an edge all the way to the handle than choking up, reason being the choil region has less contact area thus higher pressure.

Since the choil is small, reduction in edge length and strength would be trivial.

Same with David, I have not found snagging to be an issue in use. In this case, the combination of a long blade and small choil would make sangging even less likely by offering maximum edge length, so there is no need to start slicing at the very end.

I also found it doesn’t make sense to choose flat choil over small choil to avoid snagging.
The smaller the radius of the trasition is/more steep the curve, the easier it is to snag.
Looking at the flat choil, it ended just as abrupt as the small choil, therefore, if the small choil would snag, so will the flat one.
Additionally, the small choil leaves longer edge, thus small choil is definitely less likely to cause snagging than the flat choil.

Even if the small choil is causing sangging issue, there is no need to give up the ease of sharpening. Just take a small piece of tape, and cover up the choil before doing snaggy cutting work, take it off afterwards, and enjoy worry-free sharpening at the courtesy of the choil.
 
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The Choiless B10 has a very unique aesthetic, like one of those seax knves, very streamlined and elegant.
So I’m fine with choiless or small choil.

yup, not to mention the usefulness of the design...it is a pleasure to use in a draw-knife like method >>> very satisfying to angle the blade and use the entire length of the edge as you draw it through the green wood and bark.

I'd compare the feel to like slicing the ham on Easter Sunday.
 
As on some kitchen knives, no choil but with the edge extending all the way through the heel of the blade. This can be accomplished with a slanted plunge line running approximately parallel to the front of the handle (about where blue line in drawing is located).

This gives ease of sharpening and maximum edge for blade length.
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Thx for asking & keep the goodies coming!
 
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