Here is what the fuss was all about Knife#12

panch0

panch0

Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Messages
3,415
Here it is what the other thread was all about. Here is the side that was scratched I am not 100% happy with it but the guy who is buying it for his brother was pleased. Also here is the first sheath that I actually made following directions from some one who knew. It is far from great but I learnt alot. The stiching in the back is as crooked as the Rio Grande River. Also I don't really like the pin placement know that I see it on the computer.:grumpy:

Before I turn it in tomorrow to the knew owner I want to clean out the dust in the grains. Should I just scrub with a soft tooth brush. It is stabelized bubigna. Thanks guys for all the help you give me on a daily basis. I love this stuff more with every knife i make.

-frank

wip017.jpg

wip019.jpg
 
wash it with some dish detergent and your toothbrush:eek: :confused:
looks real nice there Pancho , did you use that knife to stab the sheath ?:D
 
My toothbrush!:eek:
It looks like it. I think the stamps I bought were not very good or I should have wet the sheath more. I dunno.
 
panch0 said:
My toothbrush!:eek:
It looks like it. I think the stamps I bought were not very good or I should have wet the sheath more. I dunno.
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errr respect bro

BUT

most likely you didn't hit the stamp square...If you can learn to do it on purpose, you can get an awesome 3d effect BUT hitting it with light blows dead center work better

anywho

you can put a thick leather piece under the part to be stamped and that will help

AND


take a sponge and wet the SPONGE

lightly wipe the sponge on the area to be tooled THEN do the tooling

takes a bit of practice but isnt to bad

BTW

your first sheath looks TOPS compared to my first one

nice work
D
 
Nice work! On the sheath, it looks like you may have had he leather too wet when you stamped it. It doesnt need to be wet to the touch, it should return back to natural color. I may be wrong, but the depth of the stamp, and lack of clarity of the "weave" lends itself to that. Dont get me wrong, I really like the package. Just an observation.

Shawn
 
Thanks for the tips, I am sure that is exactly what happened. It is really my third the other two were very bad. This one was half way decent. I made it by following the Wild Rose DVD. I learned alot.
 
Frank....someday I can stitch and the back side looks as good as the front...well, almost....next day i can make the same item and I too have the Rio Grande on my hands.....the other night I read on another forum one word that made the light go on....."repetition".....stab every hole at the same angle, the diamond shape of the awl should slant the same way every hole.....even when you pull the awl out (back towards you) make sure the slant is the same....for me, when I get interrupted or break my rhythm....like when I reach for a swig of beer......I lose it.......concentration/repetition ....try it.:thumbup:
 
In the photos you cannot see the scratch. The pin placement is one of those things that only you will notice. I could understand why you might want the front pin back a hair but who cares, right? The guy was happy, and you took mental notes on what to do next time. You mentioned that your stitching in the back was all over the place, did you freehand punch the holes? I figure you probably used a stitch spacer wheel to get the front pretty. Do you have a drill press? I chuck up my lacing chisel and use the ram to make sure my holes are as perfect as can be. I have a piece of wood I use to keep the leather off of my dirty worktable on the thing. That is how I get the back to line up like the front. Putting the chisel in the chuck means you don't have to hammer, and of course the chisel is vertical. You have more freedom to work the leather to where you want it before you punch it. Check the pic. Ignore the metal shavings, I just set it up real quick for the photo. Of course I do not turn the drill press on hehe...
lacingchisel.jpg
 
Great ideas guys thanks. That drill press idea looks good I will try that.

Rayban I will try that also next time.
 
On sheaths I have made I used the stitch layout tool to show where the holes go and drilled them very similar to your punch setup on the drill press. Use a bit around .040 and stitch away. :D
 
go mike said:
Gixxer: Do you do that after you've glued the sheath together?
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Yes. I forgot to mention that the tension of the belt on the pulley keeps the chisel from spinning more or less. It is real simple to keep the chisel pointed in the right direction. I hit the tip with beeswax maybe every 5 punches or so cause for me sometimes the chisel is a little difficult to get out of the hole. That was always a problem for me either this way or freehand.

ballknives said:
On sheaths I have made I used the stitch layout tool to show where the holes go and drilled them very similar to your punch setup on the drill press. Use a bit around .040 and stitch away. :D
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Depending on how I feel I have drilled the holes also. Depending on my mood sometimes I look for the subtle side by side stitch spacing on the back from using the chisel. Then again too stitching something like this might lead me to drill em cause it would take FOREVER! That blade is every bit of 10" long.
BFilletwhole.jpg
 
Ahhh man Gixxer how are you going to show me up on my ow thread..:D;) Just kidding. That sheath is awesome! I gots alot to learn, but I know I will enjoy the ride.
 
My bad man, I just like posting pics so folks can see what I am talking about cause sometimes I explain stuff like a 5th grader...
 
To me the basket weave tool appears to be used wrong. Hard to tell in the photo. Also if you folded the sheath before drying completely than the pattern will disappear to some degree. Especially a pouch style sheath.
 
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