here we go with number 2 and 3

E

Edmonton_hunter

Joined
Jul 23, 2008
Messages
68
ok so after seeing my first knife my brother in law wants me to make him one too, so I'm gonna go one better and make him a hunter / skinner set.

steel will be 1/4" 440c for the hunter @ 4.5" BL 9" OAL and 3/16" 440c for the skinner @ 3" BL 6.5" OAL
cocobolo scales

any critique on my designs would be hugely appreciated be brutaly honest PLEASE!! I can take it and will implement any changes that are nessisary
thanks all
 
I am learning about making hunters as well and some advice that was given to me is to make the tip small enough to get into some tight areas but give the blade some belly on the edge for skinning. The tip has to be done in a way as to not puncture the organs but still be maneuverable between joints and such. That's my $.02, keep the change!

Good luck and let us see more!!
 
If you're making a set then why are both the knives exactly the same except for size? What you're basically making is 2 different sized hunters or skinners. Basically on the smaller hunter reduce the blade width to make it more pointy. Just my opinion but 3/16" is a bit thick for an overall usage hunter at 3". I don't see any lanyard holes, a lot of hunters like them even though it's a great place for gunk to accumulate and them to ignore to clean (myself included.)

Nice overall designs but as a set I'd make the smaller more of a dedicated hunter/edc.
 
clw3 said:
make the tip small enough to get into some tight areas but give the blade some belly on the edge for skinning. The tip has to be done in a way as to not puncture the organs but still be maneuverable between joints and such
Click to expand...

I agree with this, but are you saying that I should go more or less pointy?
 
They're plenty thick... I'm not sure I wouldn't go with the 3/16 on the big one and use some 1/8 or 5/32 on the small one. Like the others said, too much belly on the small one. Make it more pointy. If you keep the drop point like it has, that should help with the non-puncturing of internal organs. Also, if you only grind bevels to the initial line you drew, your edge geometry is going to be off. I'd take them up almost to the spine, leaving maybe 1/4" at full thickness.
 
I don't see any need for anything in 1/4 inch. A lot of the misconception about older knives that were made of thick steel was because that was all that was availble. 1/8 OR 5/32 at the worst is plenty thick enough. You are making cutters not choppers, on a skinner you want a blade that will slide through it's own cut , not something that will hang up in it. Keep a nice hihg grind to also accomplish this to your satisfaction. Mike
 
Will Leavitt said:
If you're making a set then why are both the knives exactly the same except for size? What you're basically making is 2 different sized hunters or skinners. Basically on the smaller hunter reduce the blade width to make it more pointy. Just my opinion but 3/16" is a bit thick for an overall usage hunter at 3". I don't see any lanyard holes, a lot of hunters like them even though it's a great place for gunk to accumulate and them to ignore to clean (myself included.)

Nice overall designs but as a set I'd make the smaller more of a dedicated hunter/edc.
Click to expand...

not to sound like a prat, because I do realy appreciate the feed back. but I kinda was going on the assumption that as a set they should look like they go together....

I'm going with the 3/16" for the smaller one because thats whats on hand other than the 1/4" stuff

I didnt inclde a lanyard hole because I have one on my own knife and my brother in law made a very similar comment regarding gunk accumulating so I opted not to on his.
thanks again
 
could be just an individual opinion, but having a finger notch AND a guard looks out of sorts to me. if you were to use just the guard or just the finger cutout, it would make more sense to me.

IMG_8733_CC.jpg


this is part of a larger set i designed but have not completed at this time (based on the Benchmade 210). the handle shape is the same throughout, but the blades differ a bit in profile.
 
You don't sound like a prat... now my wife on the other hand :p

Well a set should look somewhat similar but that can be accomplished through handle design and material choices also. If you looked at your 2 blades without knowing one was a hunter and one was a skinner, you'd probably think "father and son" set instead of hunter and skinner set.

On the hunter start the edge curve in line with the bottom of the guard and use a curve that doesn't extend beyond the bottom of the guard would keep a similar look and increase the pointiness.

I didn't know if you'd brought up thong hole with your brother or not :)
 
I drew the skinner with less of a point and more belly because as a dedicated skinner it will not need to be near organs to puncture and while skinning the point can cut thru the hide I figgured more belly for slicing away the membrane holding the hide on. I had actualy even fiddled with a design with the skinner being totaly rounded at the tip but I couldnt make it look "right" to me.
 
may I say that those are great drawings, but when I think of a hunter/skinner pair this is what pops into my mind. Stag handles are a must, carbon steel is more preferable to me than stainless, but I'm picky that way. A brass or nickle silver guard. And a thong hole.

Hunter = Puma Hunter's Friend, or Jagdnicker
113589_Jagdnicker.jpg


Skinner = Puma Skinner.
116393.jpg


Jason
 
ok so here's a bit of a revision, made the skinner a bit more skinny and pointy
lost the finger notch on the bigger one and re drew the grind lines ... better?
keep it coming guys I'm realy trying here :)

 
That's more like it :) I'd still go a little pointier if it was me, but it's not me, so make what you like. Grind lines look better.
 
I like the big skinner, the hunter I'd make the edge of the blade even with the guard. Just me though, I like pointy :D
 
I would bring the ricasso down flat with the blade edge, that would make the first design with the guard and notch look better but I like these latest blade shapes.

If you look at the plunge, without the ricasso coming flat, as you sharpen the blade, you will be left with that point bit of metal instead of a flat ricasso.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top