Hey fletch!!!!

And I owe you a pic. It is a rescale job, redwood burl and maple burl. The pic blows, the camera was giving me fits trying to get it set. I have to use it on manual mode cause the point and click settings blow too. The knife has dust on it.

jeeprescaled.jpg
 
Got it and responded.

Looks good :thumbup: Once I have some decent scrap pieces I plan on doing something with 2 different woods. I was never really sure about the best way to go about doing them without using pins in the "bolster" part of it.

What do you have dividing the 2 scales on there?
 
The handle is full of hidden pins that only go halfway through the thickness of the material. 5 total pins including the shown one. The spacer is .020 brass sheet. That one pin was not even supposed to be shown but I lost control of the material drilling one side and it ended up going all the way through. Lucky me it was the one in the butt of the knife. I should have taken another pic, the joint is dovetailed (that's why the joint looks rounded) so whichever side is not locked in has the potential to separate if any serious prying load is put on it. That is why I had to fix it in the first place. I need to experiment with putting a 1/16 pin in stabilizing the joint. Here is a pic of the original, the joint is done the same way on the fix.

Jeep5.jpg
 
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PayetteRucker said:
Wow, those two woods complement each other very well. Great job!
Click to expand...

Thanks, I always liked the lighter wood up front with darker in the back, but IMO you have to use all burl wood, or all curly, having curly up front and burl in the back doesn't look quite right. It did take some looking to find the right pair of scales for purchase. Oh well. This is the last time I use natural materials for a long time. I have to work on my process more before I start trying to use expensive material that can move. It's embarrassing when you get a knife back cause something moved.
 
gixxer said:
Thanks, I always liked the lighter wood up front with darker in the back, but IMO you have to use all burl wood, or all curly, having curly up front and burl in the back doesn't look quite right. It did take some looking to find the right pair of scales for purchase. Oh well. This is the last time I use natural materials for a long time. I have to work on my process more before I start trying to use expensive material that can move. It's embarrassing when you get a knife back cause something moved.
Click to expand...

It's kinda sad to read that from you, gixxer. Personally, I don't like the look of most of the synthetic stuff out there... especially micarta and G10. It just looks so cheap to me. Natural materials on the other hand look rich and complex, much more enticing to my eye. Sure, I get what you're saying about things moving, but that doesn'y alter the aesthetic appeal of real burls or real ivory.
 
I do agree with you that some knives made with G10 and micarta are more for beating on than high end, but I have had the opportunity to hold in my hands some $1200 carbon fiber scaled folders that were astonishing. Here is my motivation. Down the road I am gonna start working with ivory.

This maker lives 10min from my house, had a hammer in a while back. His shop is what we all dream of. It's kinda funny, he makes his own damascus, yet has the Haas CNC mill.

http://www.fischercustomknives.com/images/1_ls_open_1.jpg

http://www.fischercustomknives.com/images/1_rs1_open.jpg

http://www.fischercustomknives.com/images/hawkbill1_1_.jpg
 
Gathered all info, sweet pics, E mail. Easier to take nice pics when it is overcast.
 
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