Hey Peter La_Blade Coating Removed

Joined
May 27, 2005
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First of all I'd like to thank Peter for lighting a fire under my butt. I've been seriously thinking of removing the coating on one of my knives but been dragging my heels on it. Not sure why but Peter's thread got me motivated.
Second I want to apologize in advance for such a long thread starter but I wanted to show everything. So here we go!

Before shots, yes I know it's not a Busse. I'm sure the crinkle coating on Busse knives are much tougher and will require more time and more applications of the remover. ;)

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During shots. The stuff I used is Jasco Primium Paint & Epoxy Remover. Got it from the local hardware store. It's pretty common stuff. I can't believe how fast it works. Turned my back for a few seconds and the coating was already bubbling. I use a piece of cardboard to scrap it off and wash the knife with a simple Scotch Brite and liquid soap. The Jasco came off cleanly. Not much mess at all. I wasn't to careful how I put it on, got plently on the canvas micarta handles. The can actually says the product will not affect canvas or vinyl. No damage was done to the handles from what I can see. They did lighten up from the soap and water though.

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After shots. As the can said, "will not harm metal" and it didn't nor the canvas micarta handles. It turn out pretty good. The logo is still there and that side of the blade turn out very clean. The other side still has some black streaks on it but I'm thinking some steel wool will remove it easily. After the steel wool clean up, I could almost live with it as is. It's kinda tough and rugged looking. But, I'm not done with this Rat. It's going to get a DC finish but I need to purchase a sandblaster. First it's going under the file. Going to change it's appearance a little!

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I did wear some protective gear. May have overdone it a little. The can only recommend gloves. But, hey you can't be too careful...right!

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thats insane how well that worked....

thanks for the tip :D

( jerry - would this take off the coating of an ak47 without damaging it???)
 
Thanks for the How- To! :D :thumbup:

Now all I have to do is find a place that sells this Jasco stuff.

(I may leave the SFNO alone and look into the HOG FSH.)

Does anyone know if a Busse looks the same way as a Swamp Rat without the coating? Basically, what can I expect to find under the coating on a FSH?
 
Solstice said:

Is that a temper line we can see along the bottom there? Quite cool.

Peter, I'm betting you won't see that on a Busse due to their being through-tempered. Also, anywhere it hasn't been ground (e.g., the choil) you should see INFI dimples. SR101 obviously won't have that.

Rick - speculating in a public place
 
Sorry, I should have been more specific. I know their would be no temper line on a Busse, as only SRs are selectively tempered.

I was trying to say, would a Busse have the same appearance (colour) as the knife in this thread?
 
Peter La said:
Basically, what can I expect to find under the coating on a FSH?

Hmm, maybe an FSH with no coating??? ;) :p

I think Randucci's post about his stripped Mistress showed about the same blade finish, that grayish colour.

INFI looks really :cool: like that.....IMHO :thumbup:
 
Yes that's the temper line. The Rats are differentially heat-treated. The bottom part of the blade is at a 58-60 Rc and the top is at a 46-48 Rc.

There are blimishes on the blade, some look like small holes while others are raised "dimples". Maybe that would make them pimples. There's also a pretty bad mark above the logo. Looks almost like a weld mark. Not sure if this happens in the heat treating or the grinding.

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Stay Strong & No Regrets!
 
m10commander said:
Hi Solstice, Nice job! Do you think it will work on Busse desert tan finish? Thanks

Thanks m10.

Can't imagine that it wouldn't. I have heard that the desert tan finish is one of the more tougher coatings. Not sure how another finish would go with the tan handles though. Have seen black finishes that look very cool with the tan handles but I'm thinking your considering a DC or plain steel look?

Good luck! :)

Stay Strong & No Regrets
 
looks good! remember, there is coating under the scales, do not remove the coating under the scales unless you want to see a gap of air space, or you can remove the scales do the whole knife and replace them.
 
thatmguy said:
Hmm, maybe an FSH with no coating??? ;) :p
I think Randucci's post about his stripped Mistress showed about the same blade finish, that grayish colour.
I just stripped down an AD, and it's not gray like that, it just looks like regular steel, rough, but just the normal shade of regular steel.
 
I bought a used Battle Rat that had the coating removed. It had been buffed, though, and had a bright steel finish.

It has become my truck knife, and isn't pretty and shiny any more.
 
Here is what the INFI dimpled surface under the coating looks like, on a project Steel Heart E.

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MikeH-
That Project SH-E is awesome. What kind of handle slabs are on it? I wouldn't have thought that you could change the appearance of the SH-E that much. That's a beautiful mod!
 
I wondered how the best way to remove the coating on my Rat Daddy. My original thinking was to Dremel it off. :eek:

That would be bad. Now I see how the pros do it.

Cliff
 
Does anyone know if a hand sander would buff up the blade (at least enough so it does not look like bare steel)?

Also, how did you use the Jasco around the scales so it did not leak under the scales and create a space between the micarta and the tang?

That SH-E looks really good. :thumbup:
 
Hi Solstice, Thanks for your reply! I was thinking about removing the desert tan finish on my FSH but now kind of have second thought because the tan finish is not bad looking. I prefer it over the black crinkle finish but first choice would be satin! :)
 
Peter La said:
Does anyone know if a hand sander would buff up the blade (at least enough so it does not look like bare steel)?

Also, how did you use the Jasco around the scales so it did not leak under the scales and create a space between the micarta and the tang?

That SH-E looks really good. :thumbup:

I've used a dremel, buffing wheel and red rouge to buff up blades before. Works pretty well. I have only sanded by hand, difficult and time consuming, but it works fairly well.

If Swamp Rat puts their handles on as described on the Busse Combat website, I don't think that leaking under the handles would be an issue. Jerry states that the fasteners are compressed with over 10,000 lbs of pressure. The Jasco is more of a gel not a pure liquid, so I doubt it would get under the handles even if they weren't secured as well as they are. I've looked pretty closely at the handles and don't see any changes in them, ie any gaps.

Really don't have any plans of removing the handles. I like the idea that the coating is hidden away under the handles protecting the metal from moisture.

Like the mods on the SH-E! Hopefully mine will come out as good. Different but as good. :)

Stay Strong & No Regrets!
 
Silas: I did not do the work on the SH-E. Below is what the seller told me about it. The handles are fitted perfectly, and feel fantastic in the hand, substantially thicker than the regular slabs.

"The Steelheart was reprofiled by my friend Dave. He went to koval knife supply,and picked out the green micarta. Then he went to Daryl Ralph shop, and Daryl and his son cut out the micarta from the block. Then Dave sanded it down by hand to a beautiful contour. Dave stripped the coating off the knife with citiristrip, buffed it out with a scotchbrite pad, and reprofiled the edeg with an edgepro."

I bought a used Battlerat from the seller, and when he replied to my E-Mail, he offered this SH to me as well. Both at bargain prices. A really good day! :D
 
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