HHFSH/ Some stripper questions:

Icky Thump

Icky Thump

Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Messages
4,071
I just purchased a HHFSH off our exchange. I am very happy.


Considering stripping the blade. The knife was recently re coated and re handled by Busse. My questions are: Should I strip it at all,,? Good candidate? Anything I need to look for because its a re coat?

Actual stripping questions Ill spare you from at the moment. Ill do my homework in the archives...I cant promise I wont be back w/ stupid questions..

Any help or insight is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 
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I would strip it if you want. It's a box of chocolates under the coating. It could be smooth as an le or full of grind marks or decarb. It is always more work than you think.

Best suggestion, go to Lowe's and buy citristrip and a flexible 1"scrapper. The flexible ones don't scratch the knife as you can't flex them top disarray the coating from blade. Cover the knife with the stripper and wait like an hour. That's enough time for the coating to come off easier
 
Thanks Breavis. Yea, Citristrip seem to whats up from what Ive read, the longer it sits..the easier it goes..not sure what decarb is yet..

Plan to etch the logo as well. As far as the rest of it..I imagine most questions will be answered as I go, I am starting to understand the crap shoot of whats under the coatings as well a hard work on even the "easier" strippers..

Thanks for the heads up on flexible scrapper..
 
I say beat on it for a while --- enjoy the knife first. Get very comfortable with the knife. Determine what your main use for it will be after trying it out. Then when you're fully familiarized, strip it, and reprofile/re sharpen it accordingly.

The HHFSH is such a phenomenal knife IMO -- it certainly would benefit from being stripped. Then I recommend polishing the blade a little bit to reduce surface drag even further.
 
Ickythump said:
Thanks Breavis. Yea, Citristrip seem to whats up from what Ive read, the longer it sits..the easier it goes..not sure what decarb is yet..

Plan to etch the logo as well. As far as the rest of it..I imagine most questions will be answered as I go, I am starting to understand the crap shoot of whats under the coatings as well a hard work on even the "easier" strippers..

Thanks for the heads up on flexible scrapper..
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Two things:

1. Etch the logo before you strip-- it's the only way it can be done! I don't think you're stupid or anything like that but it just seems like you're full speed ahead with the Citristrip.

2. Decarb is a layer/treatment that is applied to help the paint adhere to the INFI-- otherwise it would just slide off like a stocking. Removing it is the most labor intensive segment of the whole process. It has to be sanded off with sandpaper or scotchbrite (my personal choice).

:thumbup: Have fun with the process and realize it's pretty hard to mess up INFI-- the only place you'll possibly get in the danger zone is if you employ power tools with the sanding phase. Even then, you shouldn't have too much trouble as long as you don't get your primary grind, secondary, and/or finish all irregular. :eek:

And I've never heard of anyone ruining the temper yet with INFI. Not saying it can't be done...just haven't heard about it? :confused:
 
Haha

I dont know much, but I do know to etch before I strip..no offense taken, appreciate the replies and suggestions,..just learning

I do plan on beating the snot out of it first, or stuff I put in its way. Stripping is an incentive to use it and I definitely want to strip/polish a blade, I think I will enjoy it.

Might as well do it on a blade I love and plan on keeping for a long time. I was a little concerned about applying to much heat and or messing up the blade..But Im patient and will take my time, go slow w/ any power tools, if at all...would like to do most by hand finish...we'll see how that goes....honestly will be a labor of love..
 
Ickythump said:
Haha

honestly will be a labor of love..
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yup...it is time & sweat well spent with a great tool that will never let you down, & you'll find the ones you work on personally will be a lot more special to you...:)

keep everyone updated on your progress! :D
 
If is the real deal original 1/400 HHFSH, then it will be ugly when stripped. The spine on mine is all rough from the laser (my guess) cut.

If it is one of the newer FSH that people call HHFSH (whole nuther story) then it might not look as bad naked.

Decarb is NOT a layer or treatment applied, it is the result of the heat treat process. At the high temperatures, the some of carbon in the surface layer is oxidized (burned) away. Removing the decarb steel layer gets you back to virgin INFI.


HHFSH are great. Enjoy your fine new knife!
 
Thank you, Resin

I didnt know about newer vs older. 1/400 as opposed to later version. Are there any spec differences? Stock thickness or grind?

Debating on removing scales for strip. Drilling the tubes out and ultimately send it back in for re fit, I do like the tubes as opposed to solids or bolts..for now, on this knife.

Id rather not, but ultimately would seem the best way to do it. Would also rather work the blade in hand on a stationary machine (if I chose to go that way) vs locking down the blade and working a hand tool.

Any concerns I should have getting the citristrip on the canvas if stripping w/ the scales in place? Dremel or hand strip/polish around the scales, ..I can see how that could be a pain in the a$$..Another + for removing scales.
 
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stripper has never harmed my micarta or g10 even when applied directly onto the slabs...that stuff's bulletproof...

I have seen no need to remove the handles, you can get close enough to the edges with sandpaper + a wooden shim to where you can never tell...

plus, I consider it a good thing to keep the coating under the handles & keeping the great factory tubes in place...they're bulletproof too!

after I get back from hiking I'll post up a pic or two of some of my strip jobs
 
Ickythump said:
Thank you, Resin

I didnt know about newer vs older. 1/400 as opposed to later version. Are there any spec differences? Stock thickness or grind?

Debating on removing scales for strip. Drilling the tubes out and ultimately send it back in for re fit, I do like the tubes as opposed to solids or bolts..for now, on this knife.

Id rather not, but ultimately would seem the best way to do it. Would also rather work the blade in hand on a stationary machine (if I chose to go that way) vs locking down the blade and working a hand tool.

Any concerns I should have getting the citristrip on the canvas if stripping w/ the scales in place? Dremel or hand strip/polish around the scales, ..I can see how that could be a pain in the a$$..Another + for removing scales.
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The original HHFSH was offered by idahoskunk on the Busse Company Store. They were 0.27 thick, sabre gound, in contrast to the standard FSH at 0.25". All were CG, black on black; 200 with standard scales, 200 with magnum. After some time, they became a knife of myth and legend, and very desirable on the aftermarket. Then Busse started making the FSH again, for shows and such, and there were blades at 0.27" sabre ground, and 0.27" flat ground (which are very nice, as well) so the whole naming thing gets messy. It's hard to tell on yours, might have been an old one.

The only reason that I bring this all up is in the context of stripping. The older blades will probably be uglier under the coating than the newer ones, and thus might need some more work to clean up, depending on what you are going for. If you want a user, then IMHO, leave the scales on. Stripper won't hurt (brand doesn't really matter, all heavy duty strippers will do the job). Strip it, sand it, or use some ScotchBrite, to give it a ghetto satin, and beat the hell out of it.
 
Guy and I have been going back and forth about this for a little while now . . . Haha it's all in good fun.

The fact is that for the most part, what differentiates one model from another are the specs. If a variant of one model mirrors the EXACT specs of another model --- then it's no longer a variant. You do indeed own a HHFSH if it's weight, balance, knife blade height, knife blade width/thickness, saber grind, etc. are the same as the original run. Now I wouldn't bother reying over and over again if it didn't have market implications. The truth is that it does. The only thing that Guy can justifiably assert here is that he proudly owns an original run HHFSH --- in which case I'll gladly give him major props and praise his true Hog blood roots. However, negating the fact that others also own a non-original HHFSH is nonsense.

Cheers on a wonderful knife that is every bit as capable and good as the original run HHFSH's!! May you feed her endless piles of timber!
 
Thanks for the breakdown and specs, Resin. Plan to make this a user, keep it forever. And Im ok w/ ugly...sometimes ugly is beautiful..It would be tough for this blade to seem ugly to me, no matter whats underneath...It could be a mess under it all..but, thats the girl I usually end up w/ anyway. ( I like my women, like I take my coffee...Bitter:D)...par for the course...Appreciate the info/insight.

Rob_HOG, I dont know enough to feel bad if this is not an original run. Im just happy to have found one on the table when I had the loot..

Thanks again fellas.
 
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I say use it and let the beauty start to wear through. You could go ahead and etch the logo in case the coating gets chipped or worn off. Then someday you can strip it and have a while new knife to fall in love with all over again.
 
Ickythump said:
Rob_HOG, I dont know enough to feel bad if this is not an original run. Im just happy to have found one on the table when I had the loot..
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Please don't misunderstand me, and feel badly about your new knife. As Rob said, all HHFSH versions are great knives. :thumbup:
 
resinguy said:
Please don't misunderstand me, and feel badly about your new knife. As Rob said, all HHFSH versions are great knives. :thumbup:
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Resin, not at all man. Sincerely, no sweat. I sit here typing w/ a silly grin on my face, happy to have purchased one, any one. I appreciate the posts and input.
 
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Saweet! If I were you I'd beat it up for a while. Once the coating wears a bit you'll be able to see for yourself if it's ugly underneath or not. Plus, I think they look dead sexy coated with some wear on em. :thumbup:
 
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