HI Katana (big pics)

Shouldn't she be riding side-saddle??? :eek: :D :p :footinmou

seriously nice kat. It's still on my "buy" list, even though I really don't need one. The only question is - before or after the tarwar.
 
Ferguson, every time you post pics I know I'm going to love it. Your chucking and picture-taking skills are both exceptional.
 
Nasty said:
godiva.jpg


7x02-lady-godiva.jpg


Ask and ye shall receive...

.


Several have asked who this was painted by...


"Lady Godiva" c. 1898
by John Collier

Link to larger image
 
Steve, would it be possible for you to give us a quick overview of how you cleaned the handle up? Really does look fantastic.

Thanks,

b
 
Sure Bamboo.

1. Tape bolsters with masking tape.

2. Start sanding with 150 or 220 grit sandpaper. Sand with the grain. When smooth, go from 220 to 320, 400, then 600 grit.

3. With your finger put on a coat of Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil. It's a linseed oil based product sold in sporting goods departments for gunstocks. Available at Wal-Mart.
Wait for finish to dry. If not dry in 3 days, wipe off excess with a rag and wait for it to dry.

4. Repeat.

5. After second coat is dry, put a small piece of 1000 grit Silicon Carbide sandpaper (availble in the paint sections of automotive parts stores) in a bowl with some water. My bowl is a Power Rangers cereal bowl, but that may not be important. :rolleyes: Sand the handle until the finish is smooth. You will still have a lot of pores in the wood. Dry off the handle. When you are sure it's dry, put on a THIN coat of Tru-Oil. As thin as you can. Pour the water out of your bowl.

6. Repeat 15-20 times.

The thin coats will usually dry in 24 hours. Sometimes if your wood is particularly oily the finish will not want to dry. In these cases you may have to use a hair dryer to hasten the finish to dry, or place it in a sunny window. Repeat these thin coats until the pores in the wood disappear. 15 to 20 coats is normal. Sand before each coat lightly with the wet 1000 grit sandpaper. The water will keep the paper from loading up. One 1" x 3" paper will do one handle.

Variations. Sometimes, on my first coat of Tru-oil, I'll put it on really heavy, and sand while it's wet with 600 grit sandpaper. This makes a slurry of sawdust and Tru-Oil, that makes a kind of a filler, and helps fill the grain of the wood. It's also messy as heck. Smooth this mess out with your finger. It'll take several days to dry and you'll probably end up wiping it off with a rag.

Variation 2. Walosi told us of a trick that he used. As soon as you put on each thin coat of finish, dip your finger in a drop of Armor-All (yep, the same stuff you use on your car vinyl) Use your finger to smooth the finish out. I always clean it off with alcohol before sanding the next day. Haven't done that in a while, but it seems to do something.

There are 1000 different ways to finish handles. This is just one way. If you don't want a glassy finish, stop after 4-5 coats.

Steve
 
Ferguson;

I thought for the uses of a kHuk spring steel and differential hardening were actually about ideal. A case where function and art were together.


munk
 
munk said:
Ferguson;

I thought for the uses of a kHuk spring steel and differential hardening were actually about ideal. A case where function and art were together.


munk

I agree Munk. An excellent combination. Hopefully I didn't say anything that implied otherwise. :)

Steve
 
I guess there are steels beyond the usefullness of an HI khuk but you have to weigh cost. I feel a lot better thrashing through the woods with a 100 dollar HI Khuk than a 600 dollar hi tech version of the khuk.

The three transitions you describe in your feelings about HI khuks are pretty much the states I generally go through with everything, including wives, knives, guns and belt sanders.


munk
 
Still agreein'. :D If there's a better value out there than an HI khuk, I don't know what it is.

Steve
 
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