Hidden Pins on Scale Handle?

[bobbywett]

Hi Folks,

I am interested in constructing a "Frame Handle" styled blade and am having difficulties trying to visualize the procedures necessary for drilling the hidden sides of my of my handle material. I'm hoping to be able to learn how to install pins along the boarders and into the frame. How can I insurer a proper fit without drilling through the material....I don't want the pins to show, they are to be hidden and will function only as construction points. I'm having difficulties lining up both slabs with my frame. I will be using exotic material such as Giraffe Bone, Mammoth Ivory, and or Walrus Tusk. I want to keep the natural round curve, so squaring the outside of the material is not an option.

Any sage advice would be greatly appreciated!


Bob,

Hershey, PA

 

[JTknives]

I would do it like any other hidden pin knife. Which how i do it is like such. First i world fit the guard and solder it in place. I would then fit the frame to the tang and solder it in place. Then finish the does of the scale material the butts on to the guard. I then use some small clamps and clamp one scale in place. I then clamp the tang in the mill/drill vice and drill through the holds in the frame. Then do the same thing for the other scale on the other side.

 

[bobbywett]

Thanks JT,

If I'm understanding you correctly, ensuring the guard and frame materials are affixed to the tang first will provide for precise hole alignment with both sides of my scale material.

I appreciate the idea and will incorporate it!

Bob

 

[JTknives]

I was donating plasma so my post was short and full of spelling errors. let me explain. The first thing to do is get the frame profiled and checked for fit against the tang. once that is done you need to mark your locations on the frame for the pins and then drill them and then i ream them to a nice slip fit for the pin. a slip fit is where you can push the pin it but you have no play in the pin. you want a fit that allows the handle material to relocate in the same place each time you put it back on. I then chamfer the holes a tiny bit to allow positive pin start. Now that you have the frame done and fitted to the tang it time to solder the guard. some people don't solder and use JB-weld, i will not go into that at this time. but i like solder much better. so once you have the guard soldered in place you can then slip the handle frame on and re check for fit. if everything looks good then solder it in place. how you do this is up to you but make sure everything is flush and even. clamps and some flat bar stock work to keep everything lined up. don't try and solder everything at once. work on sections at a time and it will flow into the previous solder joints. now give it a look over and clean up the solder lines and check for any high spots that will hold the scales up. now you need to take your scales and square up the ends that butt into the guard. this is important as any work on the ends after you drill for the hidden pins will make a gap and it will just get bigger each time you mess with it. so now you have the ends all cleaned up and ready to go. next put on side of the scales on and but it up tight against the guard and hold in place with a clamp and some leather so you don't mar the scale. next i clamp 2 lengths of steel to the other side of the tang that does not have a scale on it. this will allow you to rest them on the top of the vice jaws while the tang and scale site in the vice and is allowed to be clamped. the 2 lengths of steel can be rod or flat bar thy just make sure the tang is flat and level. if this is not done your pin holes in the scale will be on an angle and wont match up when you do the other scale and could cause one to shift or even to fit at all. now manually line up the drill to each hole in the frame and drill to the depth you want in the scale. on a mill its easy but on a drill press it's a little more tricky. you can wrap tape around the drill bit to mark the stop point for each hole. now that that is done just repeat for the other scale and your done. if you do the best you can to keep everything level and precise you wont have a problem and the scales will lock in place with no movement at all. o an one more thing if you do ream the holes in the frame remember to ream the holes in the handle as well so that there the same size. I hope this helps you under stand the process, if not let me know and i will try and help.

 

[bobbywett]

Very thorough explanation JT....all of which makes a lot sense! Everything must be squared, finished, and flush before drilling. I have little soldering experience, but am anxious to give it a go. Thanks so much for your time.

Bob

 

[JTknives]

Very thorough explanation JT....all of which makes a lot sense! Everything must be squared, finished, and flush before drilling. I have little soldering experience, but am anxious to give it a go. Thanks so much for your time.

Bob

Your welcome, if you dont want to solder you can use JB weld, but just make sure everything is clean first.