Hidden tang advice...

alejandrino

alejandrino

Joined
May 16, 2006
Messages
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I bought this Devin Thomas damascus fixed blade blank with a hidden tang handle. Instead of the usual way of putiing handles , I decide to try something else. On the pic, the white part is ivory micarta cut so it fits the tang securely and with a slight curve towards the handle so it prevents slipping out. Epoxied it and over it a black-green G10. Only one side has been done to show how I did it. .I will be placing the other side next, then shape the handles when cured. Any comments on whether it is strong enough? Blade is 3 inches long and handle is about 4 inches when done. Anybody tried this before ? I sure would appreciate any comments, good or bad! I should have used pins but the blade was too hard to drill at 60RC.
 
Alejandrino, is there a hole already drilled in the back 1/3 of the handle? I can't really tell, cuz I can't get the pics to enlarge any more. If that is a hole, and you have any doubts about strength issues, maybe drop a pin through that. Epoxy is pretty strong stuff, but id the knife will see more hard use, I'd opt for pinned vs not. -Matt-
 
grease-man said:
Alejandrino, is there a hole already drilled in the back 1/3 of the handle? I can't really tell, cuz I can't get the pics to enlarge any more. If that is a hole, and you have any doubts about strength issues, maybe drop a pin through that. Epoxy is pretty strong stuff, but id the knife will see more hard use, I'd opt for pinned vs not. -Matt-
Click to expand...

I thought the same thing, but I think it's where Alejandrino tried to drill it and couldn't get it to go through.

Alejandrino,
You could heat the tang up to non-magnetic while keeping the blade portion submerged in water to protect it. When it's non-magnetic, put it down into vermiculite and let it slow cool to room temperature (about 8 hours). I would put it into the vermiculite tang first leaving the blade exposed to the air, so that it doesn't heat up. This will soften the tang up, make it much tougher and allow you to drill it and get a pin or two in it.

Ickie
 
Yes, I did try to drill it with a carbide bit but barely got thru and dulled my bit. I don't think I can put any kind of heat as half of the handles are already together with JB weld( I think this stuff is stronger than epoxy). This is a small thin knfe that will only see light use, so I will just finish it without pins but I will make small holes on the handles for netter grip hopefully. Thanks for all you help .
 
Just be sure to rough up the handle material and the tang. Then use alcohol to get all the grease off the tang. Epoxy it without touching the tang and you will be cool.

I did the same thing with a older Cold Steel SRK and used JB Weld. Instead of Micarta I used oak paneling. About a year later I decided that I didn't like it and wanted to torture test it. I pounded the handle with a 1 lb ball pien hammer to see if the 2 slabs would seperate at the seam. After an hour of working the seam over the wood sheared from the JB Weld at the base of the handle. I got tired of trying to break the handle off so I used a chisel. No success, more wood but the JB Weld would not seperate down the seam. I eventually had to grind the rest of the handle and JB weld off on a buddy's Bader.

If you rough it all up and clean it really good it should last a very long time. As strong as pinned stuff and JB Weld? Probably not. But it will be plenty strong.
 
Yes, I suspect JB weld is plenty strong. I noticed that on loctite epoxy, when you scrape off the excess, it just chips right out but with JB you have to sand or grind it out.
 
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