Hidden Tang Knife

Marcel J.B. Morin · Apr 10, 2000

I know this has been covered before, but this is my first hidden tang knife. It is a 7" blade 1/4" thick. I left a 3/4" tang to weld to. My question. What do you use for the tang? I thought of a 1/4" carriage bolt welded on. If this is correct, do I weld it on before or after heattreat. Thanks for your help.

Marcel

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Allen Blade · Apr 10, 2000

Hello,

Only a 3/4 inch tang?? Might be better on your next one to leave the tang longer and Slot it and insert and Braze a Piece of Grade
8 allthread in place,,much stronger!!

my .02

Regards,,,,,,, Allen

Armin · Apr 11, 2000

<img src=http://www.fh-ulm.de/Labore/Elektroniktechnologie/tang2.jpg>

This Taiwan-made knife with a welded on tang was cooled down to -20°Celsius. Then the blade was struck against a wooden fence stake. The tang broke with the second or third attempt.

[This message has been edited by Armin (edited 04-11-2000).]

Marcel J.B. Morin · Apr 11, 2000

Not a pretty picture. Think I will stick to full tang knives . I know they don't break. However, Allen's advise about using a series 8 bolt should offer an awful lot of strength compared to the stuff coming from Taiwan. Thanks ..

Marcel

Armin · Apr 11, 2000

I make hidden tang knives sinc more than ten years, and never had any problems. In my opinion a hidden tang can be almost as strong as a full tang or even stronger(Dont forget the holes, to pin on the bolsters on full tangs)

Here 's a pic of my latest knife, KaBar- Style with modified handle and guard. Blade steel is ATS34 hardend to HRC 59

<img src=http://www.fh-ulm.de/labore/Elektroniktechnologie/kb8.jpg>

Loki · Apr 11, 2000

Armin - from Ulm? Small world.

My family is from Heidenheim am Brenz - came to US in '67. I also agree that hidden tang's work just fine - anyone broken a Randall?

tom mayo · Apr 11, 2000

wow...that is one wide page....the length of the tang is not so important....i would guess the knife pictured broke because of the weld....if not done properly it will leave that spot brittle....and I would use threaded rod over a carriage bolt...that way you arent limited by the length of the thread....leave it a little long, and be very careful while welding....dont get your blade too hot/ it must be done after h/t.

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http://www.mayoknives.com

Glenn · Apr 12, 2000

What about those of us who lack the ability to weld or braze? Is silver solder strong enough to be used in this case. I was just going to cut treads onto the tang itself, where I had narrowed it down. I think it will be a royal pain though.

Regards,
Glenn

Fox · Apr 12, 2000

Glenn, I use silver solder and have never had a failure. I make my tangs almost the full length of the handle for strength. I drill a hole near the end of the tang and then cut a slot from the hole to the rear of the tang using a die grinder. The slot should be the width of a 10-32 screw, in my case at least. I take a 10-32 stainless steel screw, grind the head until it fits into the hole and press the threaded portion into the slot. I then silver solder the head of the bolt and the threaded portion around the slot. With the head inside the hole it would be nearly impossible for the bolt to come out. When I put my handles together I drill and tap the pommel to 10-32, glue it up and cinch it down. To finish, I grind off any theads sticking out of the pommel and then polish, leaving a little stainless "birds eye" effect much like Loveless style bolts. It works great. A copious quantity of epoxy applied to the tang and handle materials during assembly, also helps.

Fox