Hidden tang question.

I use Acraglas all the time...Johnson's Paste Wax is the best release agent I have found. I'm going to try Apoxie that Kurakai mentioned seems it might be easier and less messy.
 
I’ve bedded plenty of rifle actions to stocks over the years, but never really thought about doing it to hidden tang knives. It makes sense though. Does anyone use Acraglass for this procedure? If so, or with other bedding compounds(aside from the one kukri mentioned), do you use any release agent on the tang to make it removable after the bedding solidifies? Or do you just remove the tang/knife prior to it setting up? This idea seems like it would be a LOT easier than spending forever getting the handle hogged out precisely.


I know Acraglass takes precise measurements, but it’s not that difficult if you have a scale. Here’s a tip for precisely measuring multi-part epoxies or adhesives. I just put a small Dixie cup on the scale, hit the tare button to zero it out, put the first part in, double the weight on a calculator, and put the second part in until it matches the number on the calculator. Not really pertinent to this thread, but it’s an easy little method of measuring multipart epoxies. I use a little digital Frankfort Arsenal scale made for reloading powder. You could use one of those cheap digital powder scales sold at smoke shops/ghetto convenient stores for drugs.
One quick tweak to using the scale/calculator.
Once you add your first part, take note of the weight, then tare that out and add your second component to the same weight, same cup, two (or more) components since this can be done for each item added.

You can also add half or double easily. Say you tare the cup, then add one ounce at first. Now tare this one ounce and the cup, so you are zeroed, and add two ounces or one half ounce.
Easy to do with no calculator needed.
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I have been researching hidden tangs and trying to decide between doing a hidden tang or a box frame for my Busse Scrapmax...
 
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I used Johnson paste wax the first time but pulled the blade because I was heading for bed and was worried about the epoxy going full hard. It sure looked like the G Flex had gone through it. The tang was fully wet and the epoxy didn't sheet off of any areas like I would have thought. The second time I used beeswax that I applied with a small kitchen torch and that send pretty smooth other than when I pulled the blade the epoxy plug came with. I had washed the hole with acetone. The last time after more washing with acetone I warmed the blade and the beeswax melted and worked great. I will probably do it again. I also received a pound of apoxy from Amazon today. Thanks kukry
 
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