Hidden tang strength

I have removed glued and pinned scales off of fixed blade knives before. used a heat gun on low setting. didn't take much direct heat to get those scales to pop right off. I have glued a few scales on myself always used pins no hidden tang setups though. After seeing how easy epoxy can be defeated with heat and cold I now only use the male/female screws for scales. I would definitley want a pin in a hidden tang knife. There may be super epoxys of military grade out there but I cant afford them and havnt had a knife that used them yet .
 
I’ve beaten on an old Bagwell stag handled Bowie that does not have a pin with no issues but with that said in most cases I would like a pin
 
I make only hidden tang knives and sometimes I use a pin, sometimes not. If I use a pin, only on the very end of the tang as I don't like to have a 2mm hole drilled in the upper part of my hidden tang, I think this could cause the tang to fail.
Anyway, my knives are normally small, under 10cm blades, on bigger knives, choppers and bowies, I would use a pin or even better, screwed pommel.
Important, to have a tang that will taper from the guard area to the end, no corners, this way stress can't concentrate on one point and a tang like this can even outperform a full tang with drilled holes.

One reason I like to use a hole in the handle is, that the air can escape as you pour in the epoxi, so you can be sure that there are no air bubbles in the handle. Once everything is glued up, just pass a pin (I use silver or brass) through the handle and tang.

Regards
Nicolas
 
Back
Top