High carbon suminagashi?

jdm61

jdm61

itinerant metal pounder
Joined
Aug 12, 2005
Messages
47,357
So how do you guys think that "high carbon suminagashi" would work using say 11 layers on each side of 1084/15N20 with a core of DH III W2? Would it look good or would it just be cheap looking low layer san mai? Would I be better off using a "medium-low" carbon cladding of say 1018 and 15N20 at say .30-.40% C??
 
It works fine. I have done several swords made in similar mixes. Chris marks used to make billets for me with cores of 13 or 15 layers of 52100 and sides of 1095, thin nickel, 1084, 15N20. The sides ranged from around 20 layers to 500 layers. The good thing was that it was all hardened steel.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
It works fine. I have done several swords made in similar mixes. Chris marks used to make billets for me with cores of 13 or 15 layers of 52100 and sides of 1095, thin nickel, 1084, 15N20. The sides ranged from around 20 layers to 500 layers. The good thing was that it was all hardened steel.
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Stacy, what quenchant do you use for that mix?
 
Joe, I've been thinking about a similar project, and have several steel wood saws from the cabin that have been so heavily used there are almost no teeth left, and covered in rust. Probably 1075 or so. They would stack quite quickly with 15n20, 203e or wrought iron for the sides with a core of 1084/1095/W2.
 
Do you not worry about "shocking" the 52100? I ask because I have a big pile of CruForgeV.
 
When using lower temp austenitizing, data sheets recommend water quench. P-50 shouldn't be an issue.
 
Willie71 said:
52100.
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I don't worry about CFV in #50 with thicker sections, but I did have one thin blade explode out of the quench. I am just wondering if the shallower hardening "cladding" will absorb the blow and make things a bit easier on the very thin CFV core, so to speak.
 
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