Hinderer 3" spanto or recurve?

[Dallas T]

Yes if u open it via pinch grpping the blade with 2 hands it opens very easily, however like I said it opens awesome with thumb stud like a dang near assisted knife but with flipper it's the opposite and very inadequate. Don't get me wrong I really dig it, it's well built. If it was a non flipper it'd b great! Im just torn on keeping it or exchanging or returning it? Thanks for all the help. But I also do not want or feel that i should have to spend any more for tuning or tweaking it.

 

[Dallas T]

Would it be sacrilege to de flipper it? Remove the flipper I honestly would rather have a non flipper just couldn't find any.

 

[halden.doerge]

Would it be sacrilege to de flipper it? Remove the flipper I honestly would rather have a non flipper just couldn't find any.

There are modders who do flipper deletes on Hinderers. I'd just be careful in picking who to work on it. Make sure to see pics of previous work.

 

[LightGuy]

I got really lucky and snagged a non-flipper XM-18 3.5" on the marketplace for a great deal. Non-flippers don't come around too often, so I jumped on it.

Unfortunately mine has a pretty big problem with lock-stick which I've heard can be an issue with Hinderers. I've tightened the pivot per recommendations to no success. I'm going to take the knife completely apart tonight and use alcohol on the lock bar face and knife tang just in case there's oil residue that might be causing the problem.

If this doesn't help, will I be able to send it to Hinderer to fix? I bought it second hand on the Marketplace, so I'm not sure.

By the way, regardless of the lock-stick issue, I absolutely LOVE this blade. Overbuild which I love, and amazing fit and finish. It melts into the hand in both the back and forward grips like no knife I've ever owned, and I've owned many.

 

[jwh720]

Your exactly where I was at with the xm series. I went through a few different grinds and flipper vs non flipper. I will say that when it comes to down to it I perfer the xm in a non flipper configuation. I ended up going with a 3.5 xm 18 slicer with no flipper and I love it.

I ended up getting rid of my xm 18 3" and getting a half track which has awesome flipping action, even though the blade is slightly smaller I perfer it over the 3" xm. As with any knife though the action gets better with use.

If your looking for a 3" ish Hinderer with awesome flipping action go with a halftrack you wont regret it.

 

[Dallas T]

You should be able to, I actually don't mind a bit of lock stick comforts me of lock strength and it not slipping. But obviously I don't now to what extent urs sticks.

 

[LightGuy]

You should be able to, I actually don't mind a bit of lock stick comforts me of lock strength and it not slipping. But obviously I don't now to what extent urs sticks.

Thanks - it's not to bad when I open it without a flick, but if I give it a good flick it sticks pretty bad. I gotta crank on it to get it unlocked. So does the one you just bought stick too?

 

[Dallas T]

No not a bit of stick just doesn't flip well, but does great with studs! Idk maybe im just being picky or something.

 

[Dallas T]

Whitty just seen ur YouTube vids on the subject and does shed some light on subject, thanks for feedback! I really like the knife overall maybe just being super cautious and picky due to ive never spent that kind of money on knife. Did have a sebenza once but sold it. I usually keep to 200 or under, just had to experience a hinderer at least once. Right?

 

[WhiteShampoo]

My personal recommendation, watch 1all's Pub video on tuning a Hinderer:

.

I got a second hand Hinderer (a skinner) that flipped like complete crap, but I got it for really cheap and just passed it along. Then later I decided to try again and got a Fatty harpoon tanto and a non-flipper slicer. As you have experienced, non-flippers just rocket open almost like an auto, so I wasn't really worried there. However, with the Fatty I actually had whitty pick me one out, and when I got it the flipping was definitely better than the original skinner I had, however I decided to watch the above video and see if I could improve it even more, and I was definitely able to. I have since used the same process on all my Hinderers (flipper and non) and it definitely makes an improvement--but I will say that not all Hinderers are created equally, it is unfortunate but true and some just flip better than others (the two Hinderers I have left--the Fatty and a new spearpoint--are the best Hinderer flippers I have had in my hands, I would put them in contention with some of the ZT flippers). However, with that said, none of the ones I have had haven't flipped (unlike that first skinner that wouldn't really even flip with the push button method, though it may have just been an over-tightened pivot), so if you tune it using the above video, I would likely try to exchange it before making any permanent changes, as you may have just gotten one with a weak detent.

As for the sharpness, I haven't had any issues with my Hinderers not being sharp, but I have with other knives and I have read about others having sharpness issues with new Hinderers... it is really unfortunate. Not much else to say about it.

BUT, even with all of that out there and me being a Hinderer fanboy at this point, they may just not be for you, it happens. That is essentially where I am with CRK--love the looks of the knives, and I have owned a plain Seb, Insingo Seb, a carbon fiber Seb and Insingo Seb, and Inkosi, and I sold all of them (the Inkosi came closest, I really like the new Insingo Inkosi). I know CRK makes great knives, but they just aren't for me it seems (though I still want a Mnandi), and that's fine, my friend loves CRK but doesn't really have any urge to get a Hinderer (and that's with him handling my tuned and wonderfully flipping Hinderers).

 

[whitty]

Would it be sacrilege to de flipper it? Remove the flipper I honestly would rather have a non flipper just couldn't find any.

I have seen a number of people do this. Like Halden said, just make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing so you do not mess up the heat treat.

I got really lucky and snagged a non-flipper XM-18 3.5" on the marketplace for a great deal. Non-flippers don't come around too often, so I jumped on it.

Unfortunately mine has a pretty big problem with lock-stick which I've heard can be an issue with Hinderers. I've tightened the pivot per recommendations to no success. I'm going to take the knife completely apart tonight and use alcohol on the lock bar face and knife tang just in case there's oil residue that might be causing the problem.

If this doesn't help, will I be able to send it to Hinderer to fix? I bought it second hand on the Marketplace, so I'm not sure.

By the way, regardless of the lock-stick issue, I absolutely LOVE this blade. Overbuild which I love, and amazing fit and finish. It melts into the hand in both the back and forward grips like no knife I've ever owned, and I've owned many.

I have heard people tell of lock stick on a Hinderer but it is one issue I have honestly never once encountered, not even with all the ones I check before we ship out. This would 100% be covered by the Hinderer Warranty.

Your exactly where I was at with the xm series. I went through a few different grinds and flipper vs non flipper. I will say that when it comes to down to it I perfer the xm in a non flipper configuation. I ended up going with a 3.5 xm 18 slicer with no flipper and I love it.

I ended up getting rid of my xm 18 3" and getting a half track which has awesome flipping action, even though the blade is slightly smaller I perfer it over the 3" xm. As with any knife though the action gets better with use.

If your looking for a 3" ish Hinderer with awesome flipping action go with a halftrack you wont regret it.

I totally agree. There is a reason I am a Half Track nut. They truly are awesome knives. I still like the 3" but nothing touches a Half Track in that sub 3" range in my opinion.

https://flic.kr/p/XyLbUj https://www.flickr.com/photos/57703464@N02/

 

[LightGuy]

Thanks Witty. I'm going to completely disassemble the knife tonight, clean off all parts and add a little sharpie to the knife tang, then snug everything up and see if that fixes it. If not I'll send it in.

 

[Valyrian steel]

You actually found a 3.5 Spanto tumbled finish? Pretty rare man. been looking for a month

 

[Dallas T]

Alright i returned the recurve and just received a 3" spanto, as I mentioned prior I preferred no flipper so I decided to keep this one and ground off flipper all but a little nub. Detent with flipper wasn't stellar but didn't think it mattered since i was just gonna thumb stud flik. But now detent or something seems to be pinched when try using thumb deployment. But wouldn't flik with authority with flipper, any help would be much appreciated!

 

[GusSharp68]

I have a new Hinderer XM 18 3.5 with a recurve blade. I can’t even cut through a sheet of paper. The edge catches on my finger nail so I assume it’s sharp. Very small bevel on the edge compared to any other knife I have which I assume is just Hinderer putting a 30 degree edge on or something.

Can anyone else that has a recurve with factory edge confirm if theirs cant slice through paper or if it does? I’m guessing the recurve isn’t good for such tasks or maybe Hinderer did a lousy job putting a factory edge on mine.

 

[shane45-1911]

Can anyone else that has a bevel edge with factory edge confirm if there’s cant slice through paper or if it does? I’m guessing the recurve isn’t good for such tasks or maybe Hinderer did a lousy job putting a factory edge on mine.

Apart from this being a 4 1/2 year old thread, any sharp recurve should be able to slice paper as well as any other blade geometry, and should actually slice better on pull cuts. That's the reason recurves exist.

I'd say your edge simply isn't as sharp as you think it is, or you need to thin the edge a bit if it is truly at 30 DPS.

 

[GusSharp68]

Apart from this being a 4 1/2 year old thread, any sharp recurve should be able to slice paper as well as any other blade geometry, and should actually slice better on pull cuts. That's the reason recurves exist.

I'd say your edge simply isn't as sharp as you think it is.

Well it was the first thread that came up when I searched “recurve“ and didn’t see point in starting a new one. thanks for your answer, my guess is Hinderer just did a really bad job on the factory edge then. Disappointing to say the least for what is supposed to be such a premium brand. I’ll be sending it in to them to fix I guess. Thanks again for your response.