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김원진;11929232 said:jay- I believe you have the first full serrated hinderer, good luck sharpening that
Maybe Jay can contact Rob at Hinderer Knives and they will resharpen it for a small fee.
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Hinderer, Benchmade, and Spyderco
- Thread starter me2
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Maybe Jay can contact Rob at Hinderer Knives and they will resharpen it for a small fee.
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- Feb 20, 2011
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I'm with you MAPRIK, I might be a little green, but the thumb studs look like the old style and there on a supposedly new logo blade? And the color of the S35vn USA etch and font don't look right to me either.... The lock side and g10 sides seem to be thin as well..... The only way I can see the clip moving like that would be if "someone" sanded it down to make it easier to install after they removed it....hmmmm....
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- Feb 20, 2011
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I swapped a Banana for this XM, it is almost worth it too.
Its ok but not as good as my spyderco bug.
It has loads of blade play.
And the clip was loose too, how lame is that!
I tried to clip the knife to my ear but the clip came off, not as good as the bugs clip.
And what do you know, the scale on this one does not line up either damnit, this ZM blows.
I thought I'd improve it, tried to find some FRN and polystyrene.
There, much better now, rubbishy titanium and duratech stuff...
Jay you've made the first UDT hinderer, no ferris parts to rust or trigger mines! Brilliant!!
There are two current thumb stud designs, this is one of the two.
It is fine, the laser engraving can appear different colors depending on lighting and angle.
The 3" is thinner than the 3.5" and XM-24.
Or if the clip screws are loose (or the screws were left loose and the clip has deformed some).
It appears to be an authentic XM to me which needs to be properly sharpened (you shouldn't be able to run your fingers up and down the blade without cutting yourself) and properly assembled/adjusted.
I couldn't resist doing some cutting with the Hinderer. I decided it should be a little challenging, so I chose to cut up a bread twist tie, the wire kind. I made three cuts by pressing the blade straight down into the wire on a PE cutting board. After the cuts, no damage was visible at 40x magnification. As a point of reference, I used a RADA Cutlery paring knife that had just been sharpened with a 17 dps (degrees per side) edge and 20 dps microbevel on the Sharpmaker medium rods. Three cuts were also made with the RADA paring knife. Again, no damage was visible under 40x magnification. No damage could be felt with my thumb nail on either blade. I likely will resharpen and repeat this. I used the RADA because the Delica and Griptillain are not sharpened yet, so a slight break in procedure, but I wanted to try something since I had it sharp.
It Grip has a wire edge that is hanging on like grim death. I'm gonna try again soon. I have not tightened the clip screws on the XM-18. I will try to do so this evening and see if it makes a difference. I know the Grip and Delica screws are as tight as I feel comfortable getting them, and the clips still slide around a little. I expect the same from the XM-18, but we shall see.
I tried tightening the screws as much as I was comfortable with doing, without risking stripping the screws or my screwdriver. They didn't tighten much, and the clip still moves, but it takes a lot more effort to move it. Again, the movement of the clip is not a functional issue, and the only reason I mention it is because of the selling point of tight tolerances. In terms of retention, I don't find the clip superior to the ones on the other 2 knives. However, the recessed construction in a solid metal recess is imo superior to the more common 3 screw method, especially with a metal/metal connection rather than metal/zytel.
Now for the fun part. I tested the XM-18 against the same RADA paring knife for high sharpness edge retention. I used cardboard as the dulling medium, and the ability to slice a plastic grocery bag and shave the back of my hand as judging points for sharpness. The RADA was used in the kitchen, so it was resharpened. The Hinderer has not been resharpened since the bread tie cutting, but those areas used for that were avoided during sharpness testing.
After cutting the same amount of cardboard, the RADA was even with the Hinderer, or just slightly sharper. It shaved hair better along it's whole edge test area than the XM-18. Both would still cut the plastic bag, but it was difficult to tell the difference between the two. Before anyone jumps to any wild conclusions, this test will also need to be repeated at least 2 more time.
Just a few comments on using high sharpness for the testing stopping point. There is no question that for cutting abrasive material like rope or CATRA card stock, the 20CV of the Hinderer is better, mostly due to it's MUCH higher wear resistance. However, for high sharpness testing, like cutting the grocery bag, the wear resistance plays a smaller role. I use this stopping point to simulate when I would normally sharpen my knife. Just a little dragging during cutting, and it's back to the Sharpmaker or stones. I plan on doing a test to see when the edges will stop slicing phone book paper, but that will be a while yet.
Now for the fun part. I tested the XM-18 against the same RADA paring knife for high sharpness edge retention. I used cardboard as the dulling medium, and the ability to slice a plastic grocery bag and shave the back of my hand as judging points for sharpness. The RADA was used in the kitchen, so it was resharpened. The Hinderer has not been resharpened since the bread tie cutting, but those areas used for that were avoided during sharpness testing.
After cutting the same amount of cardboard, the RADA was even with the Hinderer, or just slightly sharper. It shaved hair better along it's whole edge test area than the XM-18. Both would still cut the plastic bag, but it was difficult to tell the difference between the two. Before anyone jumps to any wild conclusions, this test will also need to be repeated at least 2 more time.
Just a few comments on using high sharpness for the testing stopping point. There is no question that for cutting abrasive material like rope or CATRA card stock, the 20CV of the Hinderer is better, mostly due to it's MUCH higher wear resistance. However, for high sharpness testing, like cutting the grocery bag, the wear resistance plays a smaller role. I use this stopping point to simulate when I would normally sharpen my knife. Just a little dragging during cutting, and it's back to the Sharpmaker or stones. I plan on doing a test to see when the edges will stop slicing phone book paper, but that will be a while yet.
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Am I missing something ? From what I am reading here, this is a waste of time....
Three different knives, all very popular for their own reasons, but why even bother comparing 75-100 dollar knives, against a 5-600 dollar knife ?
Usually when one does a review, they have all their ducks in a row, before posting. Post all pictures/videos, and thoughts at the opening of the thread, not scattering it throughout 2 pages. Just sayin
Three different knives, all very popular for their own reasons, but why even bother comparing 75-100 dollar knives, against a 5-600 dollar knife ?
Usually when one does a review, they have all their ducks in a row, before posting. Post all pictures/videos, and thoughts at the opening of the thread, not scattering it throughout 2 pages. Just sayin
InsurgentNarhwal
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Agreed^
This review is a work in progress. I out lined the reasons for the comparison in the above posts. 3 knives with similar intents, very common knives to use as benchmarks, plus they are the knives I had on hand. I'd be glad to compare a Strider or CRK to the Hinderer, but there isn't one available. This is a couple of month comparison and I'm updating it as I go. The Hinderer arrived 2 weeks ago. If you think it's a waste of time, don't keep reading it.
He is telling you to plan ahead, your review would have been far more favorably taken if you kept your bull opinions to yourself and organized your content into an understandable post. With pictures and video.
Please keep your eyes open, some of these people despite their tone, and choice of words have given you plenty of advice.
He took the time to read your post, and comment on it. And the best you can do is make excuses and point the finger at him as if he has done wrong?
I didn't know there was a set way to do a review. I'm doing it in steps as time allows. Am I the only one who thinks it's interesting to compare knives of different values? I have thought it through. The things I'm doing with it are things I've done with many knives. If time allows, there will be a resharpening video tonight. We'll see. 20CV and similar steels have a reputation for being difficult to sharpen. I haven't had a steel like this since my S60V Random Task, which I did not find terribly time consuming to sharpen, after I'd rebeveled it to fit how I sharpen.
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I like the comparison personally, good job
First update in a while. I've carried and resharpened the XM-18 a couple of times. Due to nearly loosing it at work, I won't be carrying it for EDC purposes anymore. It resharpens pretty quickly. 20 passes per side on my Norton 220 water stone and a tiny burr was present. The burr was removed and the edge sharpened on the Sharpmaker rods. This produces an edge that will split beard hair. The same procedure on my Delica will get the edge noticably sharper, capable of splitting head hair held between my fingers. Different abrasive would likely work better for the 20CV steel, diamond, CBN, or similar. In any case, with the equipment I have, it gets very sharp, just not quite as sharp as my other knives.
I used the XM-18 to do some cardboard breakdown and garage cleaning today. It was used to break down some boxes left from Christmas and then used to cut up an old welcome mat. At the end it was quite dull, no shaving ability left at all, though it would still slice receipt paper. I also used it to chop a couple of bamboo skewers into thirds. No damage was noted except after the mat cutting, and there were several spots reflecting light after that. I saved a couple of pieces of cardboard with staples in them. Following the mat cutting, I cut through the cardboard deliberately hitting the staples hard enough to tear them through the cardboard. No chipping was noted, nor any greater dulling/damage than from the mat cutting.
The staple cutting and skewer chopping was repeated with the Waved Delica. The staples produced a rolled edge about 1/4" long and just visible. Keep in mind this is on a thinner edge, but not much. 17 dps vs. 20 dps on the XM-18. For reference, the staple cutting was repeated with a Cold Steel Carbon V Scalper at 12 dps and 0.015" behind the edge. Again, just rolling, no chipping, and shallow enough it should come out in a couple of sharpenings. Bamboo chopping was a little more difficult with the Delica, but both are capable of one chop cuts.
As a use note, the XM has some minor issues for grip. One of the grips used caused issues with the frame lock, as the natural place to put my index finger is in the groove where the lock bar release is. Also, the choil is required for hard cutting. The handle is too short and the beginning of the cutting edge too far away from my hand. This led to the modified grip for high force cutting.
As a comparison, the Scalper cut much easier through the mat, as well as through the tough, thick cardboard. Obviously no lock issues with it, and no durability issues either, even with a much thinner bevel.
I have not been able to get the Griptillian up to the same sharpness as the Delica or XM-18. I'll try again and see what happens, but may end up dropping it from the comparison.
I used the XM-18 to do some cardboard breakdown and garage cleaning today. It was used to break down some boxes left from Christmas and then used to cut up an old welcome mat. At the end it was quite dull, no shaving ability left at all, though it would still slice receipt paper. I also used it to chop a couple of bamboo skewers into thirds. No damage was noted except after the mat cutting, and there were several spots reflecting light after that. I saved a couple of pieces of cardboard with staples in them. Following the mat cutting, I cut through the cardboard deliberately hitting the staples hard enough to tear them through the cardboard. No chipping was noted, nor any greater dulling/damage than from the mat cutting.
The staple cutting and skewer chopping was repeated with the Waved Delica. The staples produced a rolled edge about 1/4" long and just visible. Keep in mind this is on a thinner edge, but not much. 17 dps vs. 20 dps on the XM-18. For reference, the staple cutting was repeated with a Cold Steel Carbon V Scalper at 12 dps and 0.015" behind the edge. Again, just rolling, no chipping, and shallow enough it should come out in a couple of sharpenings. Bamboo chopping was a little more difficult with the Delica, but both are capable of one chop cuts.
As a use note, the XM has some minor issues for grip. One of the grips used caused issues with the frame lock, as the natural place to put my index finger is in the groove where the lock bar release is. Also, the choil is required for hard cutting. The handle is too short and the beginning of the cutting edge too far away from my hand. This led to the modified grip for high force cutting.
As a comparison, the Scalper cut much easier through the mat, as well as through the tough, thick cardboard. Obviously no lock issues with it, and no durability issues either, even with a much thinner bevel.
I have not been able to get the Griptillian up to the same sharpness as the Delica or XM-18. I'll try again and see what happens, but may end up dropping it from the comparison.