Hinderer lockup geometry???

SaltyVeteran

SaltyVeteran

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Mar 16, 2017
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Hello all!

Just purchased a new Hinderer XM-18 3.5" Slicer from Kurt at Centennial Knives. IT's a nice knife to be sure, but when I was inspecting it I noticed that the lockbar only makes contact with the front of the blade. The only reason I noticed it was because it's significantly different from the lockup on my 3" XM.

Is this normal, because I an see some blade play issues in my future if this thing wears in significantly.

Thanks!

- Salty
 
SaltyVeteran said:
Hello all!

Just purchased a new Hinderer XM-18 3.5" Slicer from Kurt at Centennial Knives. IT's a nice knife to be sure, but when I was inspecting it I noticed that the lockbar only makes contact with the front of the blade. The only reason I noticed it was because it's significantly different from the lockup on my 3" XM.

Is this normal, because I an see some blade play issues in my future if this thing wears in significantly.

Thanks!

- Salty
Click to expand...

RHK is usually spot on with their locks, never heard of one developing lock rock or slipping after break in. I have seen some set to shallow that have caused issues, I myself had one that had to be repaired due to the lock bar not being set with enough tang engagement. Engagement is usually about 30% new and the contact points should be the lower most point of the lock bar, also remember they carbidize the lock face.

Use it and be happy!
 
Lockup is at about 30% or so, it's just that when observed from the side you can see that the lockbar face and the blade only meet up minimally whereas on my 3" version there is significantly more.

There is no play on either of them, hell I don't even know that there ever will be, it's just that stuff happens and I'd like to head it off now rather than later on a $400 knife.

I'll try to get some pictures to post what I am seeing.

Thanks for your input BTW!
 
Its right. Read a bit about lock bar geometry, there are a few books out there that describe it well. Basically their are three points of reference, the pivot, the lock pin or thumb stud in this case, and the lock bar face. If you think of it as a triangle, the further (wider the base of the triangle) the better. If the lock bar face (interface) was flush with the blade you would have lock rock. Ill try and draw a picture for you hold on for a bit...
 
brandoak said:
Its right. Read a bit about lock bar geometry, there are a few books out there that describe it well. Basically their are three points of reference, the pivot, the lock pin or thumb stud in this case, and the lock bar face. If you think of it as a triangle, the further (wider the base of the triangle) the better. If the lock bar face (interface) was flush with the blade you would have lock rock. Ill try and draw a picture for you hold on for a bit...
Click to expand...

yep this^.
 
Forgive my bad paint skills....lol
Red line is is ideal (furthest away) green line is not ideal (would cause lockrock) Hinderer is a little bit different because the thumb stud is the acting blade stop. Ill try and touch into that soon..

 
Only the area Ive highlighted in red should make contact with the blade.....further away from the pivot as possible the better in most cases....

 
All my hinderers are the same...most my 3.5s lock up 15-20%....out the box the lock could slip on a few but once flipped several times and broken in they lock up like a vault now..no slip at all.

I've only had 1 develop lock rock and it only needed lock bar tension increased and it locked up 60% .

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Bobby3326 said:
All my hinderers are the same...most my 3.5s lock up 15-20%....out the box the lock could slip on a few but once flipped several times and broken in they lock up like a vault now..no slip at all.

I've only had 1 develop lock rock and it only needed lock bar tension increased and it locked up 60% .

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

believe the op is talking front to back of the lock bar lock up, not side to side or how far in..aka early or late lock up most people usually talk about.
 
jbmonkey said:
believe the op is talking front to back of the lock bar lock up, not side to side or how far in..aka early or late lock up most people usually talk about.
Click to expand...
I know...i said all mine are the same as in only contacting the front portion of the blade tang on the lock face.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Bobby3326 said:
I know...i said all mine are the same as in only contacting the front portion of the blade tang on the lock face.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


gotcha. sorry misread and misunderstood what you were saying. got it now, thanks for the clarification.
 
Gentlemen,

I thank you for your input. I'm just going to use the hell out of it, and if ever the need arises, I will send it into Mr. Hinderer.

Cheers!
 
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