Hinderer Skinnys

I found a brand new DLC Skinny available second hand on another forum.
The previous owner, who is OCD (by his own admission)had all the hardware blackened, including the pivot nut.
It’s beautiful.
Now comes the dilemma. Should I keep, pimp and make my own?
I, just like most of you reading this, love Skinny slicer model.
Or should I sell to help finance a different Hinderer model in dlc?
What do you think?

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marrenmiller said:
Well, 100% of mine have had lock flex, and the lock placement and design leave no question as to why that's the case. They would be okay as a work knife but I think there's a ton of better options than a $425 Hinderer, even price blind.

Not to be rude, but I don't buy it that every single one of yours is completely without lock flex. Just based on where the lock bar engages the blade tang and the big gap in the lock bar cut virtually guarantees that any force on the lockbar pushes nearly perpendicular to the lock rather than axially, and the lock will flex as a result. Really crank on your blades with static hand pressure to test for vertical play and I'd bet you feel/hear the shift, too. If you don't push very hard it'll probably feel like a bank vault.

Again, they're fine knives, but not because they're "built like tanks".
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My three gen 4s are all rock solid but I understand you were talking about gen 6. However thats not the reason I am responding.

Whoever tries to check lock flex as suggested here, be EXTREMELY careful because otherwise you will cut yourself badly. Saying this of my experience on another rock solid brand.
 
Sorry, but I've never had any "lock flex" on any of the newer gen 6 models. I don't think I've had any in any of the previous generations either. Rock solid lockup!
 
Yep, zero lock-flex on mine - all Gen6s. All tanks.
I think that poster has bum-luck and got multiple bad knives in a row, or is doing something completely absurd with the knives. Show us a video of the supposed lock-flex / cranking.
 
Keyman said:
I found a brand new DLC Skinny available second hand on another forum.
The previous owner, who is OCD (by his own admission)had all the hardware blackened, including the pivot nut.
It’s beautiful.
Now comes the dilemma. Should I keep, pimp and make my own?
I, just like most of you reading this, love Skinny slicer model.
Or should I sell to help finance a different Hinderer model in dlc?
What do you think?

b4577064b917eb3c6226e03d1efba424.jpg


894f317f2a8e84d3f584ca7602117423.jpg
Click to expand...
If you love it, keep it? Not sure the dilemma here, lol.
Looks great to me!
 
KVT said:
If you love it, keep it? Not sure the dilemma here, lol.
Looks great to me!
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Well, I'm just not sure if I should be putting that much effort & knife funding money into only one Hinderer model?
With custom skinny hardware being extremely limited to non-existent, a standard model would have more options.
 
Keyman said:
Well, I'm just not sure if I should be putting that much effort & knife funding money into only one Hinderer model?
With custom skinny hardware being extremely limited to non-existent, a standard model would have more options.
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Gotcha. Well I’m personally a fan of blue G10 against Stonewashed DLC hardware/blade/frame. I specifically made one of my Swedges that color combo.
So that said, I’m probably not the right person to ask ‘cause I’d leave it as is. :D

Oh, and we need moar pics!
 
sharp_edge said:
My three gen 4s are all rock solid but I understand you were talking about gen 6. However thats not the reason I am responding.

Whoever tries to check lock flex as suggested here, be EXTREMELY careful because otherwise you will cut yourself badly. Saying this of my experience on another rock solid brand.
Click to expand...
Obviously you need to have your hands clear of the blade, yes. I do it such that if the blade closes, it can't cut me even if it closes completely. I can't demonstrate it because I'd need three hands, haha.
 
halden.doerge said:
Got to agree. I've read these several posts in this thread alleging "lock flex", and now, having acquired 5 Triway Pivot Hinderers, including two 3" models and one 3.5" skinny model (i.e. the ones with the thinnest lock bars), I must say that I can't find a hint of "lock flex" on any of them. There is no movement in the pivot whatsoever. They are as "rock solid" as I can imagine a folding knife being.

At this point I gotta call BS on the spurious claim that "lock flex" is inherent in the design. It isn't. That's simply a false claim. Maybe there are some odd models with mistakes in them out there that some folks have run into (which I believe RHK would make right if they were sent in for service, they have a good track record), but any such examples are a minute minority, which is why virtually none have been produced. The massive majority have no issues whatsoever. Simple as that.

And yes, I've "really cranked" on them.
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I'll believe it when I see one that doesn't flex in my hands. I'm still 3 for 3.
 
halden.doerge said:
Sure. We’re still waiting for that video from you, btw.
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Here's a video I just filmed for it. Turn your audio up; it's clearly audible. If I can devise a way to steady the knife and camera to just show the lock, I'm up for filming another showing that the lockbar is visibly moving back into the lockbar cut, but that slight motion is nearly impossible to capture on camera.

In any case, all 3 of my Gen 6s did this. I ended up having to return one, and I sold another at a loss, but this one is still with me.
 
So what is that? Just rock lock? I just tried that with my own Hinderer and I don't get any movement in any direction at all. I tried torquing it left/right, up/down and nada.
 
91bravo said:
So what is that? Just rock lock? I just tried that with my own Hinderer and I don't get any movement in any direction at all. I tried torquing it left/right, up/down and nada.
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I would call it lock rock. The lock visibly and audibly moves up and down. You can see the clearance in the lockbar cut (the cut separating the lockbar from the rest of the frame) getting smaller as you do it, but again that's hard to show on camera.

At no point does the lockbar slide or move across the blade tang during this video. However, it's absolutely not confidence inspiring and I can't imagine it wouldn't lead to slip in the wrong conditions, as it seems like the lock face is rolling on the blade tang slightly for this motion to occur.

I had a Gen 4 which didn't exhibit the same issues, but it seems that the lockbar cut was narrower, the lockbar stabilizer actually pressed on the lockbar to prevent the lock from shifting up into the cut, and the contact surfaces were different (treated titanium against steel rather than steel on steel) despite it looking like the contact angle didn't change. It's my theory these issues compound and result in what you're hearing/seeing in the video.
 
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Thanks for the vid. You’ve got what sounds like slight lock rock there. Mine do absolutely nothing like that. Clearly a defective and atypical example. I’d send it back to the ranch for warranty service if I were you.

Mistakes do happen but what you show here is completely anomalous, it’s not typical of, let alone inherent to the design.
 
halden.doerge said:
Thanks for the vid. You’ve got what sounds like slight lock rock there. Mine do absolutely nothing like that. Clearly a defective and atypical example. I’d send it back to the ranch for warranty service if I were you.

Mistakes do happen but what you show here is completely anomalous, it’s not typical of, let alone inherent to the design.
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We'll see when they service my knife.
 
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