Hinderer Very Late Lock Up

Joined
Jul 28, 2015
Messages
98
Hey guys,
My XM-18 has recently been locking up super late, like 85-90%. I bought it new a few months ago and I use it fairly regularly as a work knife when I'm on a job site or as a general EDC if I'm on call for my local ambulance service. I haven't abused the knife or anything and it should already be broken in. I'm a little worried that something is wrong, I feel like with a really hard grip you could make it almost touch the other side of the handle. Any advice?
(Pic of the knife, hopefully it works)
3j6zX5l.jpg
 
My advice would be continue to use it and if it gets worse to the point it's non functional send it in to the ranch. They are stand up guys they will take care of you, either now or later, but there's still plenty of life in that knife so I wouldn't bother now.
 
Ok thanks, I posted the photo some other places and the consensus is that it is late but not abnormal.
 
Is there anything else like blade play happening? Sometimes a loose pivot can cause the blade to not maintain a solid lockup.

Also, are you experiencing any lock slip at all? Sometimes, especially when they're new, people (me included) over lubricate the pivot and detent. Sometimes, that lubricant can get on to the lockbar and cause it to lock further "in" than normal. If you think that is it, simply dip a q tip in rubbing alcohol and clean the lockface and the tang where the lockbar engages.

Granted, I have not had broken-in xm's lockup that far in but it is common for the early lockup to move slightly--25 or 30 percent give or take--once the knife gets some use. If it is still solidly locking it is prob. not a safety issue, but you could email RHK/Rob and ask them.
 
It may take a long, long time to move over from there. If it's solid I wouldn't worry about it. That would be normal lockup for a new Sebenza 25.
 
No it has no blade play at all, and I'm careful to not get lubricant on the locking faces. It's currently lubricated with a little CRK grease.
 
No it has no blade play at all, and I'm careful to not get lubricant on the locking faces. It's currently lubricated with a little CRK grease.

Then I think you should be okay. I have that "Christo-lube" tube also and it works well. Your blade is not moving and the tang and lockface are clean; Biginboca has it right--use it with confidence and *if* it becomes a problem down the line, send it in. For now, enjoy that XM goodness!
 
I mean if it fails it's going to fail inward which means it will still work, just with some blade play. So I have no doubt it's safe. I'll probably email Rob about it and ask just to make sure it's not a problem though.
 
There you go. My guess is that Rob will agree with the consensus here, but it never hurts to ask. I have found Rob to be very attentive and knowledgable.
 
I would think you can "tune" it to get an earlier lock-up. I have done this with ither knives to adjust blade centering and lock engagement.

Basically you loosen all the frame screws and pivot, then hold pressure on one scale up and one down (like forcing a square to rhombus). You can watch the lock to what direction and how much oressure is needed. While holding this pressure, tighten the frame screws. This should hold the position. Lastly you tighten the pivot to desired tension.

I have not worked on a hinderer, but several other frame locks. It works and is not a temorary fix, but more permanent solution. Many knives can end up with different centering and lock-up just by "how" they are assembled.

If this doesnt work, personally I would send it back for warranty service.
 
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^I've done that on a couple of knives with very good results. I would also advise trying that first and seeing what happens.
 
I would think you can "tune" it to get an earlier lock-up. I have done this with ither knives to adjust blade centering and lock engagement.

Basically you loosen all the frame screws and pivot, then hold pressure on one scale up and one down (like forcing a square to rhombus). You can watch the lock to what direction and how much oressure is needed. While holding this pressure, tighten the frame screws. This should hold the position. Lastly you tighten the pivot to desired tension.

I have not worked on a hinderer, but several other frame locks. It works and is not a temorary fix, but more permanent solution. Many knives can end up with different centering and lock-up just by "how" they are assembled.

If this doesnt work, personally I would send it back for warranty service.

I've already tried that and all I managed to do was break the head off one of the handle screws (didn't even twist hard haha). I pushed up on the lock bar side and down on the scale side and it made a little difference but not much. It locks up early initially but after I grip it it works it's way back.
 
I would say your are 80-85%. I have 2 Hinderers that will lock up this far with pressure. One was my first Hinderer and was that way with in a week out of the box. It has not once moved past it and I use it a good bit. I would not be worried!
 
Not saying anything new here, but I'll give my thoughts anyways.:D

Practically, I wouldn't sweat it. I usually feel better with later lock-up and there is plenty of life in that lock bar.
I haven't ever had an XM-18 with lock up that late before (though it sounds like others have) so I would send a pick to Mr. Orlando. He has always responded very quickly and helpfully. If the knife is outside of Hinderer specs, you will be taken care of quickly. I have used their warranty service and it was very quick.

Great looking knife, love the orange G-10!
 
Are you 100% sure every screw is tight. All the frame screws need to be tight because that will affect lockup. Which by the way looks fine. Its a framlock, if it were a liner lock it would bother me but with a lockbar that thick its fine. Nice solid engagement.
 
While nothing may be wrong, it seems strange that it moved that fast. I would shoot Rob a quick Email. They may want to re-do the carbonizing(not sure that is the correct word) of the lock face. I would just see what he says. If he says you are fine, then you know.
 
I've already tried that and all I managed to do was break the head off one of the handle screws (didn't even twist hard haha). I pushed up on the lock bar side and down on the scale side and it made a little difference but not much. It locks up early initially but after I grip it it works it's way back.

I'd be more concerned about that than late lockup.
 
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