Hinderer xm-18 almost no lockup

If it locks up solid , I wouldn't worry. This pre lock bar insert ZT0561 is solid as a rock after all these years.
BmjsoPU.jpg
 
skyhorse said:
If it locks up solid , I wouldn't worry. This pre lock bar insert ZT0561 is solid as a rock after all these years.
BmjsoPU.jpg
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Thanks I wasn't asking on how far over the lock goes but not the whole depth or length of the lockbar makes contact
 
Aronb said:
Interesting I thought less contact would equal more wear and more pressure on one spot causing failure I guess I need to research it more
Thanks
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I don't believe those parts wear as much as one might think. A little bit, yes. And there's usually some break in that then levels off. But it isn't like constant wear that just keeps getting worse and worse. Ot at least it shouldn't.

I believe the legendary Bob Terzuola addressed that small area of contact in his book "The Tactical Folding Knife", if I'm not mistaken.

Anyhow, it is well known among makers that small contact in that area means solid lockup. Full length contact in that area equals lock rock.

Anecdotal story: The most solid and strong liner lock I have ever seen had literally a pencil point dot of contact in that area. I literally beat, abused and tortured that knife and couldn't get the lock to fail or even loosen up.
 
J. Doyle said:
I don't believe those parts wear as much as one might think. A little bit, yes. And there's usually some break in that then levels off. But it isn't like constant wear that just keeps getting worse and worse. Ot at least it shouldn't.

I believe the legendary Bob Terzuola addressed that small area of contact in his book "The Tactical Folding Knife", if I'm not mistaken.

Anyhow, it is well known among makers that small contact in that area means solid lockup. Full length contact in that area equals lock rock.

Anecdotal story: The most solid and strong liner lock I have ever seen had literally a pencil point dot of contact in that area. I literally beat, abused and tortured that knife and couldn't get the lock to fail or even loosen up.
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I guess it's like the lock on a umnumzaan just the tip of the ball makes contact
 
Aronb said:
Thanks I wasn't asking on how far over the lock goes but not the whole depth or length of the lockbar makes contact
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What you show in your photo looks fine , commonly referred to as an early lock up and actually preferred by most users.
 
skyhorse said:
What you show in your photo looks fine , commonly referred to as an early lock up and actually preferred by most users.
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Sorry I want clear if you look you can see light coming through and contact only on the edge of the lock bar (I am happy with how far the lockbar travels) just have concerns about how the contact is only on the front edge normally there wouldn't be light coming through
 
Aronb said:
Sorry I want clear if you look you can see light coming through and contact only on the edge of the lock bar (I am happy with how far the lockbar travels) just have concerns about how the contact is only on the front edge normally there wouldn't be light coming through
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That's how it's supposed to contact. The lockbar isn't supposed to have full contact on the face. Emerson has a great explanation and diagram on his site on liner locks. Same concept for frame locks.

Get To Know Your Knife

Sharpening | The Wave Feature | How To Use a Liner Lock | Cleaning and Maintenance | Installing Custom Hardware The Key to Emerson Grinds From time to time we get a question like “Hey you forgot to grind the other side of my knife! It’s
emersonknives.com emersonknives.com
 
Aronb said:
Sorry I want clear if you look you can see light coming through and contact only on the edge of the lock bar (I am happy with how far the lockbar travels) just have concerns about how the contact is only on the front edge normally there wouldn't be light coming through
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I totally understand your concern and it's something I'd not in the least be concerned with .
 
Looks fine to me and pretty much matches both my XM-18 and Eklipse. I use the piss out of my XM-18 without an issue or worry.
I would also advise to save all “ spine wacking” for the YouTube crowd. Between hand pressure on the lock bar and the flipper tab pressed against your finger I’m really not sure how you would get that knife to close on your hand.
Of course this is just the opinion of an aging redneck so it’s worth what you paid for it.
 
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OP - nothing to worry about. Super early lockup is preferred by some people for whatever reason. Search for pictures of Shirogorov folders and you'll see many of them have very early lockup.
 
tokerblue said:
That's how it's supposed to contact. The lockbar isn't supposed to have full contact on the face. Emerson has a great explanation and diagram on his site on liner locks. Same concept for frame locks.

Get To Know Your Knife

Sharpening | The Wave Feature | How To Use a Liner Lock | Cleaning and Maintenance | Installing Custom Hardware The Key to Emerson Grinds From time to time we get a question like “Hey you forgot to grind the other side of my knife! It’s
emersonknives.com emersonknives.com
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Thanks great article and actually says it's supposedbto be that way although I don't understand y? And he also doesn't explain it
 
CHNeal said:
Looks fine to me and pretty much matches both my XM-18 and Eklipse. I use the piss out of my XM-18 without an issue or worry.
I would also advise to save all “ spine wacking” for the YouTube crowd. Between hand pressure on the lock bar and the flipper tab pressed against your finger I’m really not sure how you would get that knife to close on your hand.
Of course this is just the opinion of an aging redneck so it’s worth what you paid for it.
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You mean people don't buy knives and bang on it always? They only do it for views? Lol
Thanks for the reply and I happen to love the Flipper tab it rolls around my pointer finger perfectly giving me great and solid grip for piercing (wich I do a lot of)
 
Aronb said:
Thanks great article and actually says it's supposedbto be that way although I don't understand y? And he also doesn't explain it
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You need that angle to create 3 points of contact. If it was parallel, there would be no tolerance for any lock face that was slightly out of spec. It would have to be exact.
 
FYI: with regard to wear. You’re going to experience very little wear with an insert, even with pressure and forces on a point that small. Titanium, it’s worth noting should you have a non-insert bar, is work hardened. So, it may wear but it’ll also get harder over time.
 
Aronb said:
I just got a new hinderer xm-18 3.5 and I noticed that the lockbar only catches the tang of the blade on the corner is this normal? It looks as if the lock face was not ground please advise
Pics
Thanks
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IMO your picture shows perfect example of well made frame lock, especially with the light protruding in the back.
‘According to all books the lock should engage just like this.
 
Looks fine to me. My spanto Eklipse was the same (about 25% lockup, new). After flipping it a bunch it moved over to like 35-40% and stayed there. Also, the insert is not supposed to contact the entire blade tang. If it did, it would quickly develop blade play. Totally normal, and all the higher end knives I’ve ever owned with inserts look exactly like yours (about 50 ZTs and Hinderers.)
 
tony281sc2 said:
Looks fine to me. My spanto Eklipse was the same (about 25% lockup, new). After flipping it a bunch it moved over to like 35-40% and stayed there. Also, the insert is not supposed to contact the entire blade tang. If it did, it would quickly develop blade play. Totally normal, and all the higher end knives I’ve ever owned with inserts look exactly like yours (about 50 ZTs and Hinderers.)
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Totally agree. :cool::thumbsup:
 
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