historical knife designs

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Jul 9, 2015
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I have some very special wood. It is not pretty but it is very historical. It is from the hull of the USS Constitution. I do not know if it was from the original build, just that it was removed from the ship during a refit. I don't have paperwork or anything but I was there and I saw it happen.
I would like to make some scales from a little bit of the wood for a couple of historically accurate nautical knives of the Revolutionary era.
I have seen many designs and even some very unique folders. But I am trying to find a knife that kind of represents knives of that time. I suppose the edc of the day for Navy guys.
It looks like there were a lot of small run makers and I am having trouble finding a good representation.
Any ideas?

Thanks
 
A classic shape for a sailor's knife is a sheepsfoot. They are not as pointy as other knives. Less chance of stabbing yourself while the ship pitches back and forth.
 
Shane has the same idea I have...a rigging knife.

It is a simple Wharncliffe (sheepsfoot) style with no pointy tip. They were safer when working aloft, and less lethal in a fight among the crew. Enlisted sailors were not allowed pointed knives on shipboard.

The spine is fairly heavy so it could be battoned through rope. A marlin spike is often in a pocket down the side of the sheath. Lanyards or braided thongs were common on both the spike and the rigging knife.
 
Thanks guys. I was leaning in that direction. Making a set with a marlin spike would be interesting. As far as the marlinspike goes, I have been looking for 1084 round stock for other projects but most knife steel vendors seemmto carry bar or sheet stock in steel. Any ideas where I might find some?
 
I've never been able to find 1084 rod, but would love to find a source for some tools I want to make. A marlinspike doesn't need to be hardened like a blade, so why not some O1 drill rod?
 
Even W1 drill rod would be just fine (and cheaper than 01) for a marlinspike - Easy to harden, and with the prying sometimes required I would do a simple HT so it would be stronger and not so bendy. Hammer one end flatten for the shackle key, then round the other end to a slowly tapering point.

Ken H.
 
W1/W2 drill rod from your local Fastenal makes the perfect marlin spike. They also carry O-1 round stock.
 
I would suggest going to your local museum. In Montana I went to the State Historical Society, I asked to see thier old knifes (and to photograph them). I was taken downstairs to see the collection. Then they asked me if I like guns, I was allowed to go see all the guns they have in the basement, way cool.
So ask at a local museum, tell them you are a knife maker and your interest. They will take it from there.
 
I wish when I was younger and in the Navy I would have spent more time at the museums in and around the Hampton Roads area where I lived.
Unfortunately, I currently live in a tiny town in north Arkansas where there are no museums. Next time I am up in New England for work,I will definitely take some time out to check out the museums in the area. Thanks for the idea.
 
While I am planning this knife, it will be a future project as I have a somewhat limited supply of wood from the oldest commissioned warship in the world. I want to make sure I know what I am doing with this whole knife making thing first. I am, however, going to get the materials together to give myself a goal. I think seeing it in the shop will help me to work on progressing in my skills.
My next question is should I go for a somewhat period correct steel or just make it from some nice stainless? And of course, I would want a modern equivalent of a period steel as I would hope and assume the steel has improved over the past few hundred years.
 
While I am planning this knife, it will be a future project as I have a somewhat limited supply of wood from the oldest commissioned warship in the world. I want to make sure I know what I am doing with this whole knife making thing first. I am, however, going to get the materials together to give myself a goal. I think seeing it in the shop will help me to work on progressing in my skills.
My next question is should I go for a somewhat period correct steel or just make it from some nice stainless? And of course, I would want a modern equivalent of a period steel as I would hope and assume the steel has improved over the past few hundred years.

Wood that special I'd go with a supersteel. Have the metal try to rival the history.
 
Check out your local museums anyway, you never know where a nautical knife might wind up in a museum basement.
 
Wood that special I'd go with a supersteel. Have the metal try to rival the history.
I have to respectfully disagree, lol. I wouldn't even think twice about anything other than a carbon steel. Of course that's MY personal preference; I'd like to see a patina on the blade especially if you go for a historical design.
 
My next question is should I go for a somewhat period correct steel or just make it from some nice stainless? And of course, I would want a modern equivalent of a period steel as I would hope and assume the steel has improved over the past few hundred years.

2 or 3 centuries ago they had good carbon steel. Your knife and spike could have been made from a wide range of simple carbon steels. So, today probably 1045 to 10100. From my reading, the knives back then would have been a bit softer probably @ HRc 50 +/-. It would have been better to have a blade bend than break and it was expected to need frequent sharpening with use. Good luck with your project.
 
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