Holding small parts on mag chuck

autogateman

autogateman

Rod Braud
Joined
Jan 6, 2017
Messages
180
Hey guys,
What is the best solution for the mag chuck on my surface grinder letting small pieces slip? My chuck is an older model with really wide poles, so small parts don’t make much contact with each pole. Slipjoint springs slide across the top pretty easily. I’ve seen some people use these fine pole blocks magnetized to the chick and they become magnetic as well, holding smaller parts better. Would this be a good solution? I’d hate for it to not work because they’re pretty expensive for what they are. Thanks
Rod
 

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I block mine in with thinner stock. I also find the areas with greater pull by dragging the spine over the chuck while turned on.

Hoss
 
You might look into something like the magna lock holddowns:
0c6309_c89ef07e246e43dbb845ba8f8ca42e15~mv2_d_4256_2832_s_4_2.webp

Sometimes called "magna grips, magna vises, perma grips, or magna clamps... etc... They're mainly used for non-magnetic materials, but can be used for mildly magnetic parts. The biggest issue is their price tag, which I've never understood. Even used sets will set you back at least $100-200. I've been thinking of trying to make my own, as there really isn't much to them.
 
I just use razor blades to stop slide. They're always thinner than any stock I'm surfacing and have decent surface area. And they're cheap and always on hand anyway.
 
J. Doyle said:
I just use razor blades to stop slide. They're always thinner than any stock I'm surfacing and have decent surface area. And they're cheap and always on hand anyway.
Click to expand...
good idea!
 
knife to a gunfight said:
You might look into something like the magna lock holddowns:
0c6309_c89ef07e246e43dbb845ba8f8ca42e15~mv2_d_4256_2832_s_4_2.webp

Sometimes called "magna grips, magna vises, perma grips, or magna clamps... etc... They're mainly used for non-magnetic materials, but can be used for mildly magnetic parts. The biggest issue is their price tag, which I've never understood. Even used sets will set you back at least $100-200. I've been thinking of trying to make my own, as there really isn't much to them.
Click to expand...


I've got some of these, almost never use them. They're not really useful for helping with thin stuff, typically, they're thicker than the stock you're having probs with.

Block the thin stock with thinner carbon steel stock (like contractor razor blades, which are flat, as John mentions), on each side and the end direction where your stone is pushing the work piece. Typically that's enough.


However, the best solution, is to replace your chuck with a cheap fine pole model. Which run around $200 for import ones that are decent. They're not the best in the world, but will be 10x better than a clapped out old standard pole, no matter how good it was originally. Frankly, they're better than any standard pole, old or new.
 
autogateman said:
Hey guys,
What is the best solution for the mag chuck on my surface grinder letting small pieces slip? My chuck is an older model with really wide poles, so small parts don’t make much contact with each pole. Slipjoint springs slide across the top pretty easily. I’ve seen some people use these fine pole blocks magnetized to the chick and they become magnetic as well, holding smaller parts better. Would this be a good solution? I’d hate for it to not work because they’re pretty expensive for what they are. Thanks
Rod
Click to expand...


Those magnetic parallels wont really help in this case. They're really more for holding odd shaped parts.
 
Thanks guys. Also while were on the subject, how are yall tapering tangs on a surface grinder? with a tilting table?
 
Magnetic sin plate. But I just do it on the belt grinder.
 
Just unbolt the magnet and shim one end up. Tighten clamps and grind away.
 
I tried spacers under the magnetic chuck. Waaaaay faster on the platen of a belt grinder.
Unless you’re doing the same taper on the same size stock every time, then it’s fastest with spacers and a belt conversion.
 
Yeah problem with using a shim under the chuck, is that you really need to go back and re-indicate everything after you bolt it back down flat, to make sure you're actually grinding parallel.

A mag sine chuck is useful if you want to do dead accurate tapers. You can find them surplus sometimes for a decent price.

Josh, with a mag sine chuck, I can do them very quickly, any taper I want, and much more accurately than almost anybody can eyeball. If you use one on a belt converted SG, you can probably do them faster than by hand on a 2x72, if you know how to setup quickly. Personally, I don't trust anything to come off a flat platen on a belt grinder with any level of real "flatness", and it's easy to end up with handle to tang fitment issues during glue up if you don't at least refine this on a disc. However, those of you that use a lot of spacers, can get away with it, since the material will compress to compensate for inconsistencies.

I guess it all depends on what you're trying to do though. Yeah, can I grind a taper on a tang in about 30 seconds with a ceramic belt on a belt grinder? Sure. It wouldn't be appropriate for my knives though.



Anyway, more than one way to skin a cat, but if you want to get repeatable results, with high accuracy, yes, a mag sine chuck is a great option, if you can find a good deal on one.

I've got a dedicated surface grinder with one on it, but if you've got enough clearance on your SG, you can actually chuck this on top of your existing chuck, when you want to grind tapers, and not have to worry about reindicating or grinding your chuck back in later.
 
Indicate?

Just regrind the chuck :)

Should be doing that every so often anyways. They move around.
 
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