Hollow Grinding 8" or 10" wheel?

E

Emphasiski

Joined
Jun 27, 2010
Messages
402
I'm ordering parts for my Polar Bear GIB, and I'm going with the multiplaten. I'm wondering if there is a big enough difference when hollow grinding to justify the extra cost for a 10" wheel as opposed to the 8"?
 
I believe that it depends on your designs; personally I use 3", 6", 10" wheels and 36" platen regularly (14" on the wish list) depending on the knife.

On 3/16" a 8" wheel will do roughly a .8" tall grind a 10" equals .9". Check out this link; maybe it will help you decide.

http://bimjo.com/free/widget.html
 
I use an 8" bader serrated, you should consider spending wisely on your contacts, IMO thats the business end, and you get what you pay for, as you learn to hollow grind youll acquire certain "feels" and motions with your body that will allow you to "walk" your hollows up into beautifull distals or maintain crisp horizontal lines, take a look at RJ Martins grinds. My recomendation is that you start hollow grinding free hand, if you find its impossible for ya, check some jigs out, theres lots to pik from, either way have fun! GHaile
 
i have a 10 a 5 and 2 inch ers ( a few)
i also have a 4 foot platten made by nate (want another and a 3footer )

if i go over 10 i am more apt to get at least a custom 36 inch wheel tho i would rather have a 48 inch wheel grinder
 
I like my 8" serrated for handles, but a 10" is better for hollows IMO. I do all of my hollows except for really small blades on a 12" serrated wheel, and love it. I'd like a 14" as well someday. 8" wheel is too small a radius IMO for blades over about 3/4" with a full height grind. I like the way a full height hollow cuts better than a saber hollow, less drag, especially with a narrow blade.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I see a lot of mention towards serrated wheels. What are the benefits of these, compared to a nonserrated?
 
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