Hollow grinding a U2 - need maker

ghost squire said:
I know this is an old old thread but out of curiosity, how did it turn out?

cliff sent the knife to me as he said he would and It was ground thin
but not as I expected it to be. but the grinding was done well and thin.
it's a delicate one in use..
 
Cliff, thanks for the response, I checked out his website and took a look at the TK7... wow! It sort of looks like a modernized Buck Vanguard, except in good steel (as opposed to 420HC :barf: ). Looks very sharp, and yours in fact has blade geometry even more optimized for cutting. Must be scary sharp!

Dan Gray thanks for your response as well, when you say it was not as thin as you expected it to be do you mean you had a different mental image of a paper thin edge?
 
An old thread but since getting the U2 and heard tell that Tom K ground one
down even thinner, I just had to find this thread!

Cliff do you still own that U2 and if so, is it still holding up in use?

and lastly do you have a photo of the reground blade?

Thanks, I love the U2 I have, man is it sharp, here is a look at just how
thin the original edge profile is, pardon the dust! it is a closeup...;)

IMG_1901.jpg


G2
 
If you want to get an idea of how thin it is, the lamination line is almost 1 cm above the edge there was so much metal removed. You can set a caliper at a few thousands and it goes way up on the bevel. I sharpen it flat to the blade so the edge is at 4 degrees per side. I usually run a 15 degree microbevel at about 0.1 mm wide to sharpen. It works very well as a small paring knife, and light utility knife on cardboard, ropes, etc. . I have also done hardwood carving with it (birch flooring). I would not want to cut metals with it, nor try to cut through very thick plastic, the bottom of a coke bottle for example.

-Cliff
 
ghost squire said:
Dan Gray thanks for your response as well, when you say it was not as thin as you expected it to be do you mean you had a different mental image of a paper thin edge?
Dang sorry I didn't see this before now..??
I'm not getting all my e-mail notices..:(
no no no
I did not say that,,
what I said was..
It was ground thin but not as I expected it to be
I should have added
Ground
to the end of that..
I wasn't referring to the thinness of the edge..
..
.. the grind itself wasn't as expected..though well ground.. I would have thought it was ground on a bigger wheel to get the edge planes that parallel
the guy Cliff had grind it
did a good job...:thumbup: though I would believe better if it was done on a bigger wheel then mentioned..and then a again we can flat grind with a round wheel so I can see it being ground on a smaller wheel.
..it was well ground..
 
Cliff Stamp said:
I have also done hardwood carving with it (birch flooring). I would not want to cut metals with it, nor try to cut through very thick plastic, the bottom of a coke bottle for example.

-Cliff
though I can see it being use like this, but again I wouldn't just haphazardly go at it with this blade..
nice fine controlled cuts I see no problem , I'd stay away from the cement blocks with it though..:o sorry..;)

the same as a scalpel, it will break if pushed sideways to hard,
 
I could likely fracture the edge on inconsistent hardwoods, plywood for example would be problematic to cut except when really light. I intend to check some of this later on once I do some edge retention work and some stock work to quantify the cutting ability in more detail.

-Cliff
 
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