hollow grinding jig

Hello,

Since Being able to Grind Large Blades free hand is of some contention here as to its viability , I offer the below as a solution to the Quandry.

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Ok lets Do this, I have $1000.00 USA american DOllars that says i Can CUT and Grind From a Blank a FULL sized KATANA japanese Sword 3/8 thick stock, ANd grind it Symetrical, and true completly By HAND,
no Jigs or holding Assists of any kind, and video tape myself doing it!!! And i will DOnate 500.00 dollars of the Money to BLADEFORUMS cause i think this place is Great to hang out at.

Any TAKERS??

PS. I will Even Grind it on one of those Cheap good for nothing GRIZZLY GRINDERS,,,,,lmfao!!!!

Regards,,,,, Allen Blade


[This message has been edited by Allen Blade (edited 04-20-2000).]
 
Allen,

I'd take that bet, if it wasn't for the fact that I believe you could do it and I believe in the "old fashioned" way of grinding too
smile.gif
Maybe one day my grinds will get to the point where I can make that bold bet too!

Good luck finding a doubter
wink.gif


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C.O.'s-"It takes balls to work behind the walls "
 
Well, Allen, I guess that gives all us wannabes something to shoot for!!
<img src=http://members.aol.com/l6steel/ebay/jig.jpg>Yuckkkkk!! Sorry the pic is so bad. I don't know why it looks like this.
Heres a rough drawn pic of the jig I made. It's just a piece of 4 by 4 angle bolted to the stock support and has a slot for the contact wheel. It can be tricky to use and since you're grinding edge down, it is real easy to grind the edge too thin. You have to mark the edge and check it frequently.If you can, get the slot as close to the center as possible and then you can use a set of guide blocks to get the plunge cuts even. The way I made the slot for the wheel is first, I layed it out and then cut the lines on my bandsaw for sharpness. Then, free hand grind 99% of whats left. I leave a little to be ground with the jig bolted onto the stock support and that loosely bolted to the grinder. Crank up the grinder and with a rubber mallet, very gently (AND I MEAN VERYYY GENTLY!!!!) tap the front of the jig to push it into the wheel. That will take the other 1% off real slow and give you more accuracy. You only need about 1/8" of the wheel showing. With that you could grind a piece or 1/4" all the way thru, so be careful when you're doing the final tuning.Naturally, after the jig is all cut out and slotted, clean the edges up with a file so there are no sharp edges.One thing you'll notice when you start grinding with this jig is, the taller the blade, the lower the grind will be, to a point. This is because a taller blade hits higher up on the jig so you can't tilt it into the wheel as much. If you practice with it and take your time, you can grind alot of nice blades with this simple jig. I bet I've ground 300 or better on it. It is great for bowies and other blades with big curves becuase it keeps the edge even. You just raise the hilt end of the blade to keep the edge parralell with the wheel's face. Well, thats all I can tell ya. Try it out, if it doesn't work, sling it in the river and cuss me if ya want.
biggrin.gif

One more thing. I do think for smaller straight blades, such as drop points, you should do them free hand. I've ground about 10 blades free hand so far, and it is amazing how fast you get the knack for it. Just practice on some scrap steel for the first couple times. Take care Forumites and grind, grind, grind!!!! Michael


P.S. I wanna see some pix of the first couple knives you knifenuts grind using this jig!!!

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel



[This message has been edited by L6STEEL (edited 04-20-2000).]
 
L6 made me one and sent it to me
it works and i am just starting
L6 is an asset to any one staring out in knife making, kind and always willing to
help,he is a kind of man that alot of
people should model there self after
thanks for the help
 
[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 04-22-2000).]

C Wilkins



[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 04-22-2000).]
 
L6, you have my thanks. I've tried a couple of hollow grinds freehand and botched them miserably. I haven't attempted any since but I think with your jig, it should be a piece of cake and you don't have to pay $309US for.

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Scraped, burnt, sliced, smashed. AHHHH, knifemaking!!!!
 
Free hand is great.. simple and fast. If your doing 50 blades and want them close to the same use a jig . Its faster for most. (EXCEPT ALLEN) Hey Randy (RJ) how do you do it?
I know Kit and I have the organic ability to do it hahahah
Makes for a good buffer ( pressure on the blade)


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Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
New Web at www.darrelralph.com

 
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