hollow grinding question

ScottRoush

ScottRoush

Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
1,818
So I got my KMG finally, put the 8" contact wheel on and did my first hollow grind. What do you do to keep from getting a high spot and valley right before the edge? I feel like I needed to switch to a platen to finish the grind to the edge. I suppose it's just getting a feel for it and shifting pressure towards the edge?

Anyway... here is the effort... It started as a culinary piece in my head and turned into this... Aldo 1084, red cedar driftwood from Lake Superior, copper, 10" OAL, 3/16" spine

cutlery4.jpg
 
are you tring to sharpen on the wheel ?
if not i say flat grind the grind you want then hollow out with the wheel later (good way to get a feel for the grinder

when i make a razor i use the flat platten and 3 different wheels depending on the grind i want
 
For m that wide a grind you need to learn to rock the edge into it and work that out.A bigger wheel will make it easier but it can be done with an 8".
Outstanding knife.:thumbup:
Stan
 
Thanks for all the great responses. I just kind of jumped into the grind without really looking into it. Yeah... a bigger wheel makes sense. I'm starting to see now why there are so many attachments for this thing!

Here is the other side...

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KMG's are awesome are they not? That's a sick blade man, I'm really impressed. I wish I could do hollow grinds as well as you, what's your secret?
 
thanks man.... my secret is to go into it with an empty mind. The only thing I knew about hollow grinding was to use a contact wheel rather than a platen. And yes... This grinder has changed everything. Now I just need to upgrade it to 2hp and VFD. And more wheels! And an extra tooling arm. holy cow.
 
You can use the platen as well, I have yet to master the hollow grind but this helps a bit.
Simulates a 14" wheel.
Richard

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I do my hollow grinds with the edge facing up, carefully checking my work often. Keep the steel moving grinding off one layer at a time in a fluid motion from tang to tip. Look for dips or valleys and adjust your pressure on the contact wheel to take more steel off the high side, abit like riding your bike and leaning into the turn. In this case the inside of the turn is to take more material off of a high spot while easing the pressure off on the low or dip in the steel that you don't want to remove as much steel.
 
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