Hollow grinds: Why are they so hated???

A few people have mentioned flat grinds getting thicker as you sharpen. If you have a full flat grind and sharpen the whole bevel, that doesn't happen. Also hollow grinds may stay a bit thinner in the beginning but they then thicken nonlinearly.
 
I read the grinds are done by machines with big abrasive wheel discs, so probably much cheaper to have that sort of equipment as opposed to automated belt abrasives. I'd guess the wheel types are mechanically simpler, easier to operate, and cheaper to maintain.

Not to say all hollow grinds are cheap, but just probably cheaper on mass scale production.

I would agree with you but i would add, as you do, "i'd guess" and "probably" cause, in fact, i've no clue about the cost of such or such machine tool operation. To come back to the title of this thread "Hollow grind, why are they so hated?" i don't think anyway it's cause of the cost, there are cheap and expensive also hollow grind knives. I rather think it's cause knife nuts, for good reasons, like better functionnality, or bad ones, like new hype, prefer now- for how long?- flat or convex grind. I'm not fond of hollow so i can't judge of, but i would like to have opinions about the compared merits of the different grinds "in situ".

dantzk.
 
For those that have binding issues when cutting cardboard, try this.
Instead of making the cut with the knife at a 90 degree angle to the edge of the cardboard, try 45 degrees. (Looking down at the spine of the knife & edge of the cardboard)
That will allow the cardboard to separate, and the knife won't bind.
Similar to cutting a box apart...it is easier at the corners than in (the middle of) a side.
 
A few people have mentioned flat grinds getting thicker as you sharpen. If you have a full flat grind and sharpen the whole bevel, that doesn't happen. Also hollow grinds may stay a bit thinner in the beginning but they then thicken nonlinearly.

That's great item of discussion you bring up there "Jared" because I have encountered that problem myself and I did find a remedy for it. When I read my copy of "The Razor Edge Book Of Sharpening" by John Juranitch it showed me the importance of grinding or abrading in "relief" when you are doing a complete sharpening ( not to be confused with just touching up a blade like is commonly done with a 204 Sharpmaker). But rather take a coarse stone and abrade the stock back to the point to where you can set up a primary and secondary bevel. Grinding in "relief" is very important with a flat grind because like Jared said you will soon be into some very thick stock if you don't.

AGain I think it is very telling when I've observed that most kitchen/culinary knives are mostly flat grinds. Even though flat grinds have their advantages the hollow grinds will always have their place. One item of interest I would like to present are 2 fish fillet knives I own. One is a flat grind and one is a hollow grind. And they both work great.
 
all of my knives have different grinds. i like convex on some for their incredible versitility. i have a thick convex blade for chopping, a collins axe. i have a thin convex blade that slices like i have never seen before, an opinel #7.

i have hollow grinds too, mostly on my folders. my folders are for fine work, whittling and slicing food sometimes. i have a case trapper with full height hollow grinds on both blades, and it cuts great. also, the hollows are relatively shallow, so that may have something to do with cutting efficiency

i also have a case fixed blade, with a saber hollow grind. it is not very good for cutting anything, except for perhaps flesh (i have not yet had the opportunity to try it in that application) it does a bad job cutting cardboard and whittling wood.

i think that the reason that many people do not like hollow grinds is because they have only ever experienced saber hollow grinds, which do not cut well except for flesh and paper.

i used to not like hollow grinds either, until i experienced a full shallow hollow grind, and then i decided that i did like them.

all grinds have thier place and purpose.
 
How do you create a hollow grind when sharpening a knife? Do you need any special tool? I get flat and compound, but not concave or convex... Thanks
 
For cutting meat, you can't beat a hollow-grind. Just look at the Doziers (hollow grind)....they slice forever...well, almost forever.
Anything else, you need either a flat or convex grind; the hollow ground edge just won't hold up to much abuse.

Yeah, what he said. :D
I have yet to find anything better/longer lasting edge on meat/tissue then a well executed hollow grind in D2. :)
 
For those that have binding issues when cutting cardboard, try this.
Instead of making the cut with the knife at a 90 degree angle to the edge of the cardboard, try 45 degrees. (Looking down at the spine of the knife & edge of the cardboard)
That will allow the cardboard to separate, and the knife won't bind.
Similar to cutting a box apart...it is easier at the corners than in (the middle of) a side.

Here's an explanation in pictures:
DSCF04392.jpg
 
Thank you :D
Now I know that one person understood my rambling.

Good photos make it clear...a picture is worth a....well you got it :D
 
I don't mind hollow grinds in folders, I've got dozens of hollow ground folders and they work just fine.

In fixed blades, I only use flat and convex ground blades. I spend a lot of time outdoors (both for work and play) and I need a knife that can take some hard use, so I stay away from hollow grinds.
 
Back
Top