Home Built Surface Grinder

Ken H> said:
Well, I never think about using it for final finish since I normally do a FFG on kitchen knives, and even hunter knives, so all the SGA finish would be in grinding the bevels. BUT - if a bevel was used that left the top part of blade flat then it could be final finish. Since I started using a disk grinder for final grinds, I'd use that for final flattening of any flats and cleaning up a good grind line.
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Ahhh that makes more sense... I do a lot of bi-directional grinds like below (flats having grind lines parallel to the edge, grind being perpendicular) so it will make sense for me. But for your work not so much! That makes sense now.

This will definitely take some experimenting with the belts to get it dialed in just what I like. I am not opposed to spending $10-15/belt if it works better than the rest for what I need. I've finally got dialed in exactly what belts I like for all the other work (took several years) for my style of grinding (lower speed, low pressure, water cooled). A lot of ceramics don't necessarily fracture under these conditions but I've found the cubitron 984f's to work fine (36 and 120 grit) - but for my 60 grit belts I use Phoenix abrasives as one of their ceramics fractures nicely under lower pressure and I get decent life out of it.

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Ken H> said:
I ordered the 2-1/2"x 60" belts yesterday - we'll use those up and see what winds up for next order. Thanks to all for comments and links.

Since I ordered a 3"X6" contact wheel, and have a 3" wide drive wheel I can use up to 3" wide belts. My tracking wheel is only 2.5" wide, but think it would work with 3" wide. We'll see.
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You can easy split 4" x 72" belt /if they exist/ in two .One 2.5 or 3 inch and other 1.5 or 1 inch .One inch belt is very useful for some task . . .
 
That is one good looking knife! Handle is really nice wood - good job!

Now I see it, I've done a few of those bi-directional grinds also - and like them.
 
Ok I have all the parts but the rail. For us aliexpress newbies, any precautions to take before I order? You know, paranoia will destroy ya ...
 
WC53 said:
Ok I have all the parts but the rail. For us aliexpress newbies, any precautions to take before I order? You know, paranoia will destroy ya ...
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I would order through ebay if you can find the same parts... Gives you more protection should something go awry
 
Hi All,
I have loved reading your ideas of making a surface grinder for a 2 x 72" grinder. In looking around on you tub I came across this video of a surface grinder attachment that might give some thoughts to those who can't afford buying parts from China. I don't really like the set up that he has made but can see the potential and ways of adapting it.
Andrew
 
Baby steps, got the slots cut for the magnets. Haven’t glued them in yet as I want to wait until after the rail gets here (shipped!) and do the mockup without it attracting everything on my bench :) I used 3/8 spacing in between
 

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vbottles said:
Hi All,
I have loved reading your ideas of making a surface grinder for a 2 x 72" grinder. In looking around on you tub I came across this video of a surface grinder attachment that might give some thoughts to those who can't afford buying parts from China. I don't really like the set up that he has made but can see the potential and ways of adapting it.
Andrew
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Actually one of the first videos I watched when I started getting all this together. Probably about 6 months before starting this thread. He does a good job with the parts he has. I would certainly commend anyone who did this. That said, the parts list for building one of these is about $250. Considering what the least expensive SGA is selling for online, I’d say $250 is pretty inexpensive. Considering you will get performance on par with the factory units. (i.e., Wuertz SGA-1)
 
Got my track and wheel, it took about 7 days. One question on the build, is the steel plate betweed the linear rail and the bevel adjustment/(magnet plate holder) needed or is just a spacer?

Thanks

Tim
 
Tim, take a look at post #98 to see all the parts - Stromberg does a GREAT job of showing parts and assembly. Each part is actually needed for good construction. Without the tapering function you could save one piece, but tapering is too important there is no reason not to use all the pieces. Less than $5 for the extra metal.
 
WC53 said:
Got my track and wheel, it took about 7 days. One question on the build, is the steel plate betweed the linear rail and the bevel adjustment/(magnet plate holder) needed or is just a spacer?

Thanks

Tim
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The plate you are referring to is what holds the 1/2” studs/bolts in place. Otherwise, you would need to drill & tap the linear rail itself for 1/2” studs. Just makes for a better engagement between the parts. Here’s a pic of the new one I just made last week.

JwJ0E2T.jpg
 
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Is anyone else getting some serious convex action on the ends of a piece or around holes? It's like the rubber on the wheel is compressing on the main portion of the blade but right where it comes on or goes off of the blade it's curved really bad (I'm getting about .035" between both sides!) . I'm thinking it's because of the 70 duro wheel - need something harder.
 
Yes, I am getting some rounding on the edges as well. I started to notice this on thicker blades. I have tried several things to prevent this, one is to only take very small increments in on the grind in order for the wheel to not push as hard on the steel. Other than this, mine is still doing a great overall job. Keep me informed if you find another wheel to handle the issue though. Thank you for posting this. I had this but thought maybe it was something I was doing wrong.
 
I’ve got the parts coming for my build. I waited longer to have my contact wheel with 95 rubber vs their standard 70. Hoping the harder rubber will help...?

Jeremy
 
gudspelr said:
I’ve got the parts coming for my build. I waited longer to have my contact wheel with 95 rubber vs their standard 70. Hoping the harder rubber will help...?

Jeremy
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Yeah I'm thinking it will! Keep us posted .. Where did you get the 95 duro wheel from?
 
I don’t have it yet, it’s frok some Chinese company, I think. I got it based on one of the earlier posts in this thread from Strömberg. I saw on their online store that they came with the 70 rubber but could be customized. I contacted them and asked how I could go about that and they said I just needed to put it in the remarks when buying the wheel, but it would take an extra two weeks or so to get it made. Guessing they probably didn’t have one with that durometer rubber on it? Didn’t cost any extra that I could tell-just the wait time. Fingers crossed that the harder wheel and taking small bites will minimize what you described.

Jeremy
 
just don't try to hog so much off on each pass. I have found that if I'm taking more than 3-4 passes without the sparks stopping, I advanced it too much into the belt, thereby compressing the rubber and it takes more passes for the rubber to decompress.
 
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