Homemade 2x72 belt grinder questions

C

Ctrl_alt_destroy

Joined
Jun 21, 2016
Messages
3
Hey guys, I've been getting into knifemaking and have been using a 6x48 belt sander for my grinding needs. It gets me by, but it's not ideal. Buying a new 2x72 grinder is a bit costly, and I'm a do-it-yourselfer type anyways, so I've been throwing around the idea of building my own grinder.

My question is related to the anatomy of these grinders. Most of the online plans and commercial ones I see have a drive wheel and 3 idler wheels, with one on some sort of adjustment for aligning the belt as well as a spring loaded one for tensioning. But why have 3 idler wheels? Why not just have one that does both tensioning and alignment?

I'm thinking of this in terms of cost saving, as theoretically it's cheaper buy 2 wheels and sets of bearings instead of 4. Can you guys think of a reason why that might be problematic?
 
Most of them do tension and track with the same wheel. The other two are on top and bottom of the flat platen.
 
Well, you might consider looking around at many different 2X72 grinder designs. How many designs use the Grizzly setup vs how many use the tension wheel with 3 wheels (4 total including drive wheel). Why do you think that is? Something to be said for proven designs - using two wheels like Grizzle does isn't for an improvement, but for cost cutting.
 
I'm in the process of building one right now, and getting close to the finishing stages. Provided I got the motor for free (treadmill motor with controller for variable speed), as of now I currently have just under $200 invested. That will go up approx $100 when I order the 4 belt wheels from ebay (Drive wheel, tracking wheel and 2- 2" wheels for a flat platen). They have a cheaper set for about $67 that are plastic wheels and the reviews are good, but I'm opting for the better aluminum set. There are other alternatives to buying wheels built directly for a 2x72, but in all honesty for $100 I don't think you can go wrong IMHO. I was tempted to go the skateboard wheel route but decided against it as the price for a complete set of ready made wheels was hard to beat and everything is there and ready to go. I think your major savings are going to be found in the design of the grinder you go with and how much you can get a motor and or VFD if you want variable speed.
 
Fair enough, my initial search for wheels had me thinking they were ridiculously expensive. I see now that they can be had for much cheaper than I originally thought.

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it.
 
I use skateboard wheels for the platen wheels - I've used aluminum, but sometimes I wind up grinding on the top platen wheel and aluminum isn't too good for grinding. Skateboard (Longboard) wheels can be chosen with the correct hardness and have just the right amount of give when grinding. Only problem they don't fit the standard 1/2" bolt used for axle. Need a lathe to build the axle to fit those skateboard bearings.

Ken H>
 
Ken H> said:
I use skateboard wheels for the platen wheels - I've used aluminum, but sometimes I wind up grinding on the top platen wheel and aluminum isn't too good for grinding. Skateboard (Longboard) wheels can be chosen with the correct hardness and have just the right amount of give when grinding. Only problem they don't fit the standard 1/2" bolt used for axle. Need a lathe to build the axle to fit those skateboard bearings.

Ken H>
Click to expand...

Yeah I was thinking I might run into that when I get my 2 x 72 finished and using it. The 2" rubber wheels from usa knife maker are pricey at $65 each and $75 for the 3".
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top