Homemade G10?

Alan Folts

Alan Folts

Joined
Oct 4, 1998
Messages
427
I got a load of fiberglass cloth, some clear industrial resin, and a set of press plates.

My question is, is there anything stopping me from making my own G10? I am bored with the colors out there in synthetics and I figure if I can make the knife, why not the handle material?

Is the resin that manufacturers make G10 out of a heat set or different type of resin than is available to anybody else?

I have some resin that I got surplus from a NASA sale that they use to glue the ceramic tiles on the shuttle with, but its sorta this ugly tan color when it dries...

Any ideas???

Alan...

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If a Man talks in the forest, and there is no Woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?
 
I had been wondering how hard it would be to make G10 if you had a machine press. I don't have one so I haven't tried anything though.It sounds like you have everyhting you need, but how will you keep the glass fibers from decompressing while you put the resin on, or how do you keep the resin from gluing everything to your press plates? I guees you could put some kind of thin liner inbetween the plates and the glass, thej sand the liner off the ginished G10 when it ws hard.Color is another problem. I had been thinking that fiberglass insulation was probably alot like what they compress to make fiberglass sheeting, but it only comes in pink and yellow.

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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
Matt, I got fiberglass cloth at the home store here in town, I dunno about using fiberglass insulation, it has fire retardent chemicals and all sorts of stuff added in.

The cloth goes almost clear with a good quality resin.

To keep the resin from running off while it is drying I planned and made one of my press plates bigger and I will make a clay dam around the edge to puddle the resin it the form.

I havent figured out how to get the plates to release from the resin, I was figuring some experiments with saran wrap or even wax paper to see if either of those worked, I even thought of coating the plates with ash from a fire before adding the resin, but I still have some experimenting to do...
smile.gif


Alan...

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If a Man talks in the forest, and there is no Woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?
 
I don't know how big a piece of handle material you plan to make; but, if you can get teflon sheets somewhere in the proper size, I don't think epoxy or much else will stick to teflon.

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AKTI member A000873
 
alasome, thanks for the idea!!!

I figure if I get a big enough block of teflon I can make a bottom block with edges so the resin wont run out and then make a male form to fit into it and press the whole mess in an arbor press with a lock maybe....

Even if the resin would stick to the teflon, I could always just use a sheet of plastic or somethin to line it with and grind it off after the resin hardens...

I never thought of using soethin for the press plates that wasnt metal. It helps to get a fresh look on the whole thing!

Thanks, I love this place!!

Alan...

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If a Man talks in the forest, and there is no Woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?
 
Alan,
I don't know anything about making G10, but I have done a fair amount of fiberglass work. If you already have the metal plates, you can easily keep the resin from adhering. Just coat both plates with duct tape. It sounds funny, but it works! Once everything has cured, just pry your material away from the plates. It takes a little bit of work, but it will come off just fine. The problem with plastic wrap, or garbage bags, or anything like that is the heat generated by the resin. The hardener that you mix with the resin works by generating heat through a chemical reaction. The less hardener, the less heat and therefore the longer the curing time. The more hardener, the more heat and the shorter the curing time. If you mix it "hot" (a lot of hardener) like I always do, it is very easy to generate so much heat that it would melt the plastic wrap, garbage bag, etc. I have never had this problem with duct tape. I once made a fiberglass speakerbox for the trunk of a very expensive sports car. I just removed all the carpet, coated the entire trunk with duct tape (almost two rolls!) and started pouring in resin and laying the mat (the owner was not allowed to watch!). After it had cured I had no real difficulty working the fiberglass loose, just takes a little elbow grease. I have used this method many times. I submit this as an easy way out, because a big block of teflon sounds expensive to me, especially if you are just experimenting right now, and I would not be a bit suprised if the resin would bond right to it! Oh, one more thing. You mentioned making some kind of dam or form to go around the material in the press. Go to a local hobby store that sells a lot of model train stuff. They will have mold making material there. Train hobbyists use it make molds for mountain scenery and things. I am having a brain fart and cannot remember what it is called, but it comes in a powder form and you mix it yourself. If you were to make that into a form and coat it with duct tape, I can guaratee excellent results. It has worked for me many times. If you want more information about the molding material let me know, and I will find out what it is called. If you can't find it I would even be happy to pick some up for you and drop it in the mail. Just let me know. Sorry for the length, I hope I've at least helped a little bit. Good luck.
Jeremy
 
To keep the resin from sticking, try mold release. That is what they coat the inside of molds for things like boats with.

For teflon, try checking some kitchen supply stores for teflon baking sheets. I believe that Lehmans sells the stuff (www.lehmans.com) It should be able to take the heat.
 
I think Brownells makes and sells a spray-on, bake-on Teflon coating for gun barrels and knives. I suspect you can treat the plate and mold with this stuff, bake it, and voila!

It should take the heat also.

Spencer

Adapt, Migrate, or Die
 
I think Brownells makes and sells a spray-on, bake-on Teflon coating for gun barrels and knives. I suspect you can treat the plate and mold with this stuff, bake it, and voila!

It should take the heat also.

Spencer

Adapt, Migrate, or Die
 
Here is the little knowledge I have on the subject:

G10 is made from epoxy resin and fine glass cloth hardened under high presure.

Thick polyetylen sheet will not stick to the resin. This can be found in industrial packing rolls or in thick plastic bags. It has the advantage to provide a clean smooth surface. However great care must be taken in impregnating as you want minimum amount of resin and maximum amount of glass (if you don't have preimpregnated cloth and you do it by hand). Use a presure roll to remove excedent resin.

There are alternatives such as breathing polyetylen sheeth (with lots of tiny holes) which will allow excedent of resin to be absorbed through it when used with an absorbing cloth on the outside.

You have two kind of colors: inks (transparent) and pigments (opaque). Take care to have pigments compatible with the resin you use if you want to avoid disaster.

Thickness of the plate is important as the generated heat might just burn to whole thing. So resin hardening characteristics are essential (pot life...).

You can also use carbon and/or kevlar or a mix for coloring touches.

There are some other options which would probably give good results also.

I'll be pleased to discuss it by mail.


FortyTwo.
 
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