Homemade micarta slabs on my BK2!!! Woot!!!

Those look fantastic, great job!!

After some research I learned about the hot-plunge technique for cutting the hex holes. Once I was confident in my ability to do so, I went about making myself a pair.
Click to expand...

:D


G10 IS tougher. don't try to shape it with files or other steel tools any more than necessary. You need fast, sharp abrasive, good dust collection & respiration, AND the hot-plunge will not work.
 
daizee said:
Those look fantastic, great job!!



:D


G10 IS tougher. don't try to shape it with files or other steel tools any more than necessary. You need fast, sharp abrasive, good dust collection & respiration, AND the hot-plunge will not work.
Click to expand...

Naw, micarta it tougher. Whilst they are both relatively easy to grind in comparison to steel I'd say micarta does clog up belts quicker and cutting though micarta's cloth without power tools is harder than fiberglass cloth.
 
CamH_16 said:
What belts do you use? I've worked with a fair amount of G-10 and micarta and it has hardly worn down the belts I'm using which are just ordinary aluminium oxide ones...
Click to expand...

I use Gator Grit belts, they're the best I've been able to find locally without ordering online. They don't seem to do too bad up until I get close to steel, like when I'm grinding them flush with the tang when I'm making a pinned handle.



daizee said:
Those look fantastic, great job!!



:D


G10 IS tougher. don't try to shape it with files or other steel tools any more than necessary. You need fast, sharp abrasive, good dust collection & respiration, AND the hot-plunge will not work.
Click to expand...

How would I go about cutting the hex holes then? There HAS to be a better way that using a chisel?
 
CamH_16 said:
Naw, micarta it tougher.
Click to expand...

G10 is tougher on steel tools. That's what I meant.
It'll wreck a bandsaw blade in nothing flat.

Sorry Blackhawk, I used up all my clever on the hot-plunge. I suppose you could find a broach that would do the job.
 
Blackhawk45hunter said:
I use Gator Grit belts, they're the best I've been able to find locally without ordering online. They don't seem to do too bad up until I get close to steel, like when I'm grinding them flush with the tang when I'm making a pinned handle.

How would I go about cutting the hex holes then? There HAS to be a better way that using a chisel?
Click to expand...

Aren't Gator belts trizact? They should be lasting awhile since they're used for putting a satin finish on steel IIRC. What belt sander do you have? Also, you might want to look at those sanding drums that fit in a drill press.

For the hex holes I use a dremel engraving bit...


005 by CamH_16, on Flickr


048 by CamH_16, on Flickr


005 by CamH_16, on Flickr
 
CamH_16 said:
Aren't Gator belts trizact? They should be lasting awhile since they're used for putting a satin finish on steel IIRC. What belt sander do you have? Also, you might want to look at those sanding drums that fit in a drill press.

For the hex holes I use a dremel engraving bit...

Click to expand...
With a template or just freehand? They look great.
 
granitestateofmind said:
With a template or just freehand? They look great.
Click to expand...

Thanks, but what do you mean? Template for the contours or the overall shape so its flush with the tang?

I don't use any kind of template for the contours, just freehand until they feel about right. In hindsight though, these ones could have used a bit more sanding since they feel a tad blocky, kinda what I image the Camillus ergos to have been.

For the overall shape though I do use my BK-5 as a template to get the scales flush before doing the ergos.

My 5 is actually starting to wear down from accidently hitting the grinder over several sets of scales so I probably won't be making any more Becker handles in the future.
 
CamH_16 said:
Thanks, but what do you mean? Template for the contours or the overall shape so its flush with the tang?

I don't use any kind of template for the contours, just freehand until they feel about right. In hindsight though, these ones could have used a bit more sanding since they feel a tad blocky, kinda what I image the Camillus ergos to have been.

For the overall shape though I do use my BK-5 as a template to get the scales flush before doing the ergos.

My 5 is actually starting to wear down from accidently hitting the grinder over several sets of scales so I probably won't be making any more Becker handles in the future.
Click to expand...
I meant template routing the hexes with the Dremel. For scales, if you wanna save your 5 (and you have a router), you can use the scale as a template and use a bearing guided bit to outline the scales:
I'm still working on finishing the first pair of these (serious procrastinator), but I'm also trying to set up some jigs and fixtures so I can be consistent with hole placement and such. Also looking into DIY 3D duplicators (using a dremel or a trim router) for the contouring part. I've seen one or two that were dirt cheap and looked relatively straightforward to build.
 
granitestateofmind said:
I meant template routing the hexes with the Dremel. For scales, if you wanna save your 5 (and you have a router), you can use the scale as a template and use a bearing guided bit to outline the scales:
I'm still working on finishing the first pair of these (serious procrastinator), but I'm also trying to set up some jigs and fixtures so I can be consistent with hole placement and such. Also looking into DIY 3D duplicators (using a dremel or a trim router) for the contouring part. I've seen one or two that were dirt cheap and looked relatively straightforward to build.
Click to expand...

Those scales are nice, can't wait to see what they look like when finished. Especially like the 2 pairs on the right. What wood are they?

I drill an appropriate size hole on the hex nut side of the scales (5/16" or 3/8" I think) down to where the nut will sit in comfortably, not all the way though obviously and then mark out the edges where material needs to be removed with a sharpie. From there just test fit the nut every so often to see if it will go in until you get a nice fit.

As for the router, I'm moving away from scales into my own customs so making a set of scales compatible between a whole bunch of knives isn't really important. Especially since the knife blades are cut and ground by hand so they will all be slightly different in size anyway.

A jig isn't really needed for the holes. Clamp them down and the holes will be where you want them when you drill. I also usually leave/end up with an 1/8" or so of extra material around all sides of the scales so even if the hole is slightly off you have the ability to adjust and realign it.
 
CamH_16 said:
Aren't Gator belts trizact? They should be lasting awhile since they're used for putting a satin finish on steel IIRC. What belt sander do you have? Also, you might want to look at those sanding drums that fit in a drill press.

For the hex holes I use a dremel engraving bit...


005 by CamH_16, on Flickr


048 by CamH_16, on Flickr


005 by CamH_16, on Flickr
Click to expand...

Ah! Ok, a Drexel bit makes sense...

Where do you buy your G10 that you can get it thick enough to make Becker handles? I've only been able to find it up to 3/16" or so. Do you just stack thinner stock to get the thickness you need?
 
Blackhawk45hunter said:
Ah! Ok, a Drexel bit makes sense...

Where do you buy your G10 that you can get it thick enough to make Becker handles? I've only been able to find it up to 3/16" or so. Do you just stack thinner stock to get the thickness you need?
Click to expand...

I buy it in either 3/8" or 1/4" thick depending on the knife size though occasionally layer a 1/4" piece with some .030" liners. Send me an e-mail and I'll let you know about a couple places.
 
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