homemade serration

Ansoknives

Ansoknives

Joined
Oct 28, 1998
Messages
702
Anybody know of a good tecnic to make serration on blades. I was thinking of making a fixture like the lansky sharpener and put a file in it. But should i make the serration before or after heattreating. (I dont like to work on hardened steel)
 
I once heard that some custom makers hand file serrations with round chain saw files. The files are hard enough to do this. By obtaining files in differing diameters, it may be possible to achieve a serration pattern similar to the standard serrations as found on knives like Spyderco.
 
Put the serations in before you heat treat... other wise they will be extrmemly hard to put in. Do as much to the blade before you heat treat as possible. Its much easyer then!
smile.gif

 
The following is from the Sharpening FAQ, this is a description from A.T. Barr on how he does it. Have you seen the Sharpening FAQ?


When I make a serrated blade, I first grind the cutting edge down to
approximately .020. I then use two files. A 1/8" round file and a
3/16" chain saw file. I then use a course
DMT diamond rod that is
tapered from about 1/16" to 1/4". I use that to put the final edge on
before heat treating. After heat treating I again use the same DMT rod
to clean up the scale. I put the blade (if a folder) or wrap the
handle (if a sheath knife) in a vise in a horizontal position. You're
right, it is not easy, but you can do it.

[This message has been edited by Joe Talmadge (edited 10-30-98).]
 
I do a pretty unique serration for a custom maker. It's a simple process that has been around for a long time. It's call the crushed stone method (got it out of a 1930's edition of "Machinery Handbook"). If anyone is interested, I'll type up how I do it and post it. You'll let me know. It's pretty long.

 
Put it on here KIT
I remember from our conversation at Batsons last year..IT will help fella's
 
I must preface this by saying this is not my original idea, but I can't remember where I saw it or who's idea it was. It sounded to me that it would work and I will try it some day. You take a diamond wheel dresser and groove a wet wheel with the pattern that you want to cut into the blade and then just take your beveled blade to the wheel cut in your bevels all at once. If I ever try it, I'll let you know. Maybe tonight.......
 
Give me a chance to put into words. I've explained it to a number of makers and it's so simple, it's hard to understand. i'll have it on the post before the weekend is over.
 
Mike Turber has the answer and has done it and shown his pictures on this site.His James Brothers Cheyenne. He used a diamond inpregnated grinding wheel that had the grooves already in it( same design that Microtech uses) There are a few choices in patterns.He mentioned the name of the company but I don't remember it. If interested give him a jingle.
 
Here's the way I'm doing it: First I hollow grind the edge I'm going to serrate. Then, I use a Dremel tool with one of the coned-shaped grinding bits to put in the "notch," or serration, or whatever its called.

Factors that affect the serrations: 1. Size and shape of the grinding bit, 2. Angle of approach of the grinding bit, 3. Depth of the plunge, 4. Patience factor. The last of these is the hardest for me to master!

In fact, I just came in from working on a fighter (ATS-34), and got impatient about the serrations, so they came out a bit uneven. Fortunately, I had the sense to stop when I noticed what I was doing. Hopefully, I can correct it.

After putting in the basic serrations, I use a Dremel polishing bit of roughly the same size to clean it up. Works very nicely, and easily.

The only catch: the patience to be precise.

Marty

------------------

 
Guys, bear with me. I have all the photos of the device and have been slow getting the instructions typed up. It will be worth it when I finish.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top