Homesteader's Axe

[crown & hammer]

Connecticuts...

Collins

Kelly

Kelly Registered
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Tom

Thanks Tom. I was looking for handmade, antique (19th C or earlier) axes with original (hard to tell I know) haft. Wrought iron with steel bits. I think the reason the axe I have here did not split at the eye is precisely because it is wrought iron with a steel bit.

 

[SC T100]

Connecticut Axe that would be at home in some 1st growth forest. Original hickory helve. I did not have to clean up too much. Most rusting was in poll area. The wedges are 2 wrought spikes.

It might be old, but might not be. Axes used and left in barns for a few decades can look like they're 200 years old between the dirt and rust. Just curious, what makes you think the handle is the original? Folks have pulled wrought iron nails out of axes and posted them here, but that doesn't usually help date the axe. Also, I'm pretty sure that's not a CT pattern as noted in DoubleOtt's post above.

 

[SC T100]

Thanks Tom. I was looking for handmade, antique (19th C or earlier) axes with original (hard to tell I know) haft. Wrought iron with steel bits. I think the reason the axe I have here did not split at the eye is precisely because it is wrought iron with a steel bit.

Many axes do this...the one-pieces are only hardened at the bit, and the remainder of the head stays softer. Many of my axes have had mushrooming, and I only have one two-piece.

You will likely need to seek out a known 1800s maker...there are a few posted on this site, and those axes will have identifiable stamps. I can't remember the name off the top of my head, but they're around.

 

[crown & hammer]

It might be old, but might not be. Axes used and left in barns for a few decades can look like they're 200 years old between the dirt and rust. Just curious, what makes you think the handle is the original? Folks have pulled wrought iron nails out of axes and posted them here, but that doesn't usually help date the axe. Also, I'm pretty sure that's not a CT pattern as noted in DoubleOtt's post above.

It is hard to tell. But I feel the handle has the age. It is different to have this in your hand than just look at it on a computer, as you know. I can put an old wrought spike in a wal-mart axe, so I know that. It is about everything together. Old axes are out there, especially here in Connecticut. So until someone can be specific as to why this is not old --- I think it walks and quacks like a duck. What is this pattern? I'm assuming factories named certain patterns after familiar early examples found in various states. I thought this looks like what later factories called a "Connecticut"

 

[Oxbow]

The proportions look very wrong for a Connecticut.

I also don't think it is a welded axe. Most of the welded axes were not punched out at the eye. They were wrapped and/or lap welded and you can almost always see signs of the forge weld at the front of the eye and on the poll where extra metal was added to create the poll. You can also usually see lines where the steel meets the wrought iron. Especially in an axe that is as beat and rusty as this. The corrosion reveals areas of incomplete weld, and it etches the wrought differently than the steel. I don't see any of that in those pics. In my opinion that is a one piece/ all steel axe.

P.S. In an axe that is as beat as this one, the abuse should have started some at least partial failures at at least one of the welds.

 

[crown & hammer]

Many axes do this...the one-pieces are only hardened at the bit, and the remainder of the head stays softer. Many of my axes have had mushrooming, and I only have one two-piece.

You will likely need to seek out a known 1800s maker...there are a few posted on this site, and those axes will have identifiable stamps. I can't remember the name off the top of my head, but they're around.

The only thing I'd ask about is you say many axes do this -- I was referring to the eye -- not the poll mushrooming. Yes I've seen lots of vintage axes with messed up polls.

 

[SC T100]

It is hard to tell. But I feel the handle has the age. It is different to have this in your hand than just look at it on a computer, as you know. I can put an old wrought spike in a wal-mart axe, so I know that. It is about everything together. Old axes are out there, especially here in Connecticut. So until someone can be specific as to why this is not old --- I think it walks and quacks like a duck. What is this pattern? I'm assuming factories named certain patterns after familiar early examples found in various states. I thought this looks like what later factories called a "Connecticut"

The only thing I'd ask about is you say many axes do this -- I was referring to the eye -- not the poll mushrooming. Yes I've seen lots of vintage axes with messed up polls.

It looks more like a Dayton pattern to me, but there are quite a few that look similar. See here: http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2012/03/axe-head-patterns-from-past.html

You're right, it definitely could be old, but without a maker's stamp, it's impossible to tell. A lot of the old axes will have a stamp of some sort. Unfortunately, without some sort of identifying mark, it could be from the 1980s and was abused and left outside for 30 years, or it could be from way back.

As for the eye, it looks that way most likely because it's been beat on with a sledge (or used on metal wedges). There are many examples of axe heads posted here that show eye deformation due to use and abuse. They range from Norlund and Swedish hatchets to full-size heads, to the Chinese pot metal head I rehung a while back...had bad mushrooming and a significantly deformed eye. It looks to me that's probably the reason they jammed the railroad spike (or whatever that wedge is) into the handle...to widen the wood to fill the deformed eye. I sort of wonder if that's not a pick mattock handle they used to fill the eye, given it's thickness. Who knows...people do strange things to axes.

 

[crown & hammer]

The proportions look very wrong for a Connecticut.

I also don't think it is a welded axe. Most of the welded axes were not punched out at the eye. They were wrapped and/or lap welded and you can almost always see signs of the forge weld at the front of the eye and on the poll where extra metal was added to create the poll. You can also usually see lines where the steel meets the wrought iron. Especially in an axe that is as beat and rusty as this. The corrosion reveals areas of incomplete weld, and it etches the wrought differently than the steel. I don't see any of that in those pics. In my opinion that is a one piece/ all steel axe.

P.S. In an axe that is as beat as this one, the abuse should have started some at least partial failures at at least one of the welds.

This axe is not "rusty as this". in fact it is not very rusty at all. The welds would not be apparent based upon what you are saying. But anyway --- this axe is probably not worth any more discussion.

The last thing though. I only called this a Connecticut because that's what I thought it looked like. I guess it is not a known pattern at all. Fair enough.

 

[crown & hammer]

Not much rust

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[Oxbow]

This axe is not "rusty as this". in fact it is not very rusty at all. The welds would not be apparent based upon what you are saying. But anyway --- this axe is probably not worth any more discussion.

The last thing though. I only called this a Connecticut because that's what I thought it looked like. I guess it is not a known pattern at all. Fair enough.

OK, that's a non-rusty Connecticut, and I'm the Queen of the May.

In the interest of the discussion of forge welds in axes, here's a picture of a very old forge welded bit. I have of course ruined its historical patina with vinegar and abrasives so that I can actually flatten a beam with this axe.

 

[crown & hammer]

OK, that's a non-rusty Connecticut, and I'm the Queen of the May.

In the interest of the discussion of forge welds in axes, here's a picture of a very old forge welded bit. I have of course ruined its historical patina with vinegar and abrasives so that I can actually flatten a beam with this axe.

yeah if i drown this in a tub of vinegar maybe i could see weld lines too.

Where is the all rust in the photo I posted? I guess I don't know what rust looks like.

I agreed it was not a Connecticut. It is closer to a Yankee--- ironically another name for someone from Connecticut.

 

[crown & hammer]

Thanks Oxbow and all for your input.

 

[crown & hammer]

And Gary and COTS sorry when I acted like a jerk in my replies to you guys.

 

[garry3]

Thanks for comments. Always (usually good to hear different viewpoints. My "background" is antique furniture, "primitives" etc. That's my Eye. An essay in 1970's entitled "Buy It Ratty and Leave it Alone" had a big influence in collecting, connoisseurship etc. Many of you would obviously disagree with the idea of Leave it Alone. Subjectively beauty is in the eye of the beholder. But, objectively the market has spoken --- literally any furniture (or smalls) that have been refinished, overly restored (very minor may make sense) is worth less and worse. This axe is not a good example for the point I'm trying to make. It is a beater, not worth much (or anything.) I get it. But I happen to like it's character, look, aesthetic. And honestly wanted know what others thought. And I do think it to be 1800s. I'd love to see another axe head with intact wedges made of wrought spikes (or nails for that matter.) I am newer to tools, so I may have it wrong. So I want to be educated about what an American (Connecticut pattern even better) handmade, antique, intact (w/haft) axe looks like. I just don't see them on this site. Pictures anyone?

p.s. -- bikes -- I (and many of you do I'm sure) know for a fact Schwinn's were being restored in the 1980's-90s --- and 30 years later those are worth less than the untouched ones. Rust buckets are another matter, but some really nice untouched bikes were unnecessarily restored because for some reason people need to stuff to shine.

All you have to do is ask for pictures.
I all so think it is a sin to remove patina from an antique. You need to know what to look for. I am not an expert but I usually know old when I see it.
Maybe this axe was made after 1900. No way to know for sure unless we can positively identify the maker.

This axe is stamped "THE CONTINENTAL" below that it says "CAST STEEL WARRANTED". My guess is that this axe was made after or during an American war when patriotism was running high. Can't prove any of that, but its not a bad hypothesis. I am sure its went through its share of handles. This handle was lathe turned. Its an old handle with wonderful patina. I think lathe turned handles came around in the 1860's or so. I am not saying that its that old just that it could be.

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[garry3]

Examples of forge welded bits.

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[JM2]

Personally, im not much of a collector. I have always loved vintage tools, but I use them. Mostly carpentry tools, as i am a carpenter by trade.

I most always have the opinion of, what would grandpa have done? If grandpa in the 30s needed an axe, and had this one, would he have said, Oh my that axe is a historic masterpiece, or would he have seen the continued usefulness of it, and brought it back to its former glory. I like to think grandpa would do the latter. Thats normally what I do. I either let the piece go to someone that will enjoy it the way it is if its too far gone, or I bring it into working order.

 

[garry3]

And Gary and COTS sorry when I acted like a jerk in my replies to you guys.

No problems here. There are all kinds of characters on this form. Some are like me old an opinionated.

I do actually think that your head has a forge welded bit. I believe I could make it out in the first picture you posted. Its a shame that not everyone will appreciate a old tool and take care of it.

 

[Remzy]

All you have to do is ask for pictures.

Love the axe but MAN, this bit need to be reprofiled even if it is to hang on a wall! I get your concept on patina and antique preservation believe me, I collect Nihontos and tosogus and it makes me cring when i see someone unskilled take a tool on antiques but it always makes me cring to see a bit that is so badly shaped.

As for exemple, a nihonto (call it a katana for a long sword if you will) with rust on the edge and wavy edge that had been sharpened by an amateur, would warrant restoration (given that the sword is salvagable) by a profesionnal togishi (polisher trained for at least 6 or more years by a master, if i remember correctly), HOWEVER, you would never touch the nakago (tang) of the nihonto (japanese sword), as to not remove that patina that took centuries to develop... theres also the issue of removing the mei (signature of the smith), so you see, the parallel with antique axes can be made and i dont see why anyone would leave an antique axe with a badly shaped bit (you can see some groove made from a file or grinder?) solely for the purpose of "preserving the patina".

In short i think that reshaping + sharpening an antique axe = OK, removing the patina of the head for no particular reason = Not OK.


Sorry if I am off topic a little and I dont mean to come off rude or anything, just an opinion.

 

[garry3]

Love the axe but MAN, this bit need to be reprofiled even if it is to hang on a wall! I get your concept on patina and antique preservation believe me, I collect Nihontos and tosogus and it makes me cring when i see someone unskilled take a tool on antiques but it always makes me cring to see a bit that is so badly shaped.

As for exemple, a nihonto (call it a katana for a long sword if you will) with rust on the edge and wavy edge that had been sharpened by an amateur, would warrant restoration (given that the sword is salvagable) by a profesionnal togishi (polisher trained for at least 6 or more years by a master, if i remember correctly), HOWEVER, you would never touch the nakago (tang) of the nihonto (japanese sword), as to not remove that patina that took centuries to develop... theres also the issue of removing the mei (signature of the smith), so you see, the parallel with antique axes can be made and i dont see why anyone would leave an antique axe with a badly shaped bit (you can see some groove made from a file or grinder?) solely for the purpose of "preserving the patina".

In short i think that reshaping + sharpening an antique axe = OK, removing the patina of the head for no particular reason = Not OK.


Sorry if I am off topic a little and I dont mean to come off rude or anything, just an opinion.

Love what them Japanese blades did and can do. Just awesome stuff.

It seems that some one got a new emery wheel and went to town on the old axe. Dressed the poll with it also.
It is what it is.

 

[Axe Master '94]

That poor axe looks like an Ohio pattern to me (square poll, rounded bit, flat toe and a drop heel- something like the offspring of a Dayton and a Michigan)