Hon warikomi Hocho

Bill Burke

Bill Burke

Joined
Aug 1, 2008
Messages
1,762
Well Bruce B. is showing off his hamons' so I am going to show off mine.
here are a couple of japanese style kitchen knives that I finished recently.

This one is 410 stainless over 52100.
87042_1_b.jpg
87042_4_b.jpg


This one is 416 over 52100. with 416 bolsters.
87044_1_b.jpg
87044_4_b.jpg


And this Santoku is also 416/52100 with a quarter mokume blade ferrel
87049_4_b.jpg

the blades are .1 .11 and .11 in thickness at the handles and about 7 inches long. they have a full convex grind right down to a zero edge and a full distal taper.
 
Bill, how did you achieve the san mai welds? wet or dry?. great knives by the way, i especially like the santoku:thumbup:
 
Spectacular! The second one is the one that strikes me the most - right combination of lines and handle material for my tastes.

Thanks for sharing!
 
out of sight... those are very nice ...:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

i can't pick which i think is best... they're all beaut's


Greg
 
Beautiful.

I've been admiring this style for a while and even tried to recreate it a few times, but the ratio of stainless to carbon seems to alude me.

The stainless doesn't like to move under the hammer - so it seems like I'm squeezing 1095 peanut butter out from between 416 stainless crackers. Are there any tips to making this work any easier?

I'm pressing 1/4" 1095 between 3/16" 416 to about 1/4" in thickness then hand hammering.
 
Mark Basford said:
Beautiful.

I've been admiring this style for a while and even tried to recreate it a few times, but the ratio of stainless to carbon seems to alude me.

The stainless doesn't like to move under the hammer - so it seems like I'm squeezing 1095 peanut butter out from between 416 stainless crackers. Are there any tips to making this work any easier?

I'm pressing 1/4" 1095 between 3/16" 416 to about 1/4" in thickness then hand hammering.
Click to expand...

I have never tried 1095 for this. I can't tell you the temps that I work at because the thermal couple that I had in my forge has burnt up and I haven't bothered to replace it I just work by feel and eye. I believe though that many of the stainless steels reach a point where they actually get harder to move as they get hotter above a certain temp. carbon steel as we all know just gets softer and softer as it gets hotter and hotter so you might try less heat. I do all of my welding and drawing on a fifty pound little giant. but have used a rolling mill to thin and lengthen the billets after welding.
 
Bill Burke said:
I believe though that many of the stainless steels reach a point where they actually get harder to move as they get hotter above a certain temp. carbon steel as we all know just gets softer and softer as it gets hotter and hotter so you might try less heat.
Click to expand...

Ahh.. that would explain a lot. :o

Will you be at Blade this year? I'd love to pick your brain some more on this...
 
Mark,

I would really like to talk with you but Will Not be going to blade this year. My youngest son is graduating on the 29th of may so that would mean that I would only have sunday for sales so I elected to not go this year.
 
Congratulations. Graduation is a proud moment for both of you and should not be missed. :)

I'll be finishing my only successful stainless/carbon sanmai this weekend and will be posting photos next week. I would be most greatful for your feedback, if you have a few moments to spare.
 
Mark Basford said:
Congratulations. Graduation is a proud moment for both of you and should not be missed. :)

I'll be finishing my only successful stainless/carbon sanmai this weekend and will be posting photos next week. I would be most greatful for your feedback, if you have a few moments to spare.
Click to expand...

Hey mark I would be glad to take a look at your stuff. send me photos.:thumbup:
 
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