Horsewright Knives and Leather

I like the Coyote and Paisano, do you have a post or pictures that illustrate the difference between them? Also, do you have a size for them, handle size, and overall size in particular?
You can check out his site. Lots of good stuff.
 
Well guys lets have a look see here. I think this pic might help a bit. While this is not all of my models, it does incorporate some of the most popular.

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From the top:

1) Ranchero
2) Cowboy
3) Paisano
4) Cowboy Toothpick
5) Coyote
6) & 7) Vaquero
8) Mestano
9) Gordo
10) Poco

I like the Coyote and Paisano, do you have a post or pictures that illustrate the difference between them? Also, do you have a size for them, handle size, and overall size in particular?
That's a post from Dave earlier in this thread that shows models and you can see the sizes by the mat they are on 1" squares.
 
That's a post from Dave earlier in this thread that shows models and you can see the sizes by the mat they are on 1" squares.
Thanks, I remember now seeing that previously.

I don't see any difference in size, only minor blade shape differences. Anyone have both models and want to show comparison pictures of the finished product?
 
Thanks, I remember now seeing that previously.

I don't see any difference in size, only minor blade shape differences. Anyone have both models and want to show comparison pictures of the finished product?


Just so happens that I'm working on a batch of blades, some of which Camper was helping with:

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So I've got 18 blades on the workbench this morning 4 of which are Paisanos and 3 are Coyotes. I've got the blades all ground and finished and we'll be moving on with bolsters and handles today.

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So some of the differences between the two? The Paisano is made in both steels (high carbon and stainless), the Coyote only in the AEB-L stainless. No particular reason just how I do it. Some years back I use to hollow grind the Coyote and a couple of other knives. No particular reason again, just variety. I switched to a full flat grind like the rest of my knives. It was awkward and time consuming as well as a pita for lots of different reasons offering and doing both. Simplified my life just doing the FFG. The Coyote is a straighter blade and the Paisano is a taller blade as well as having a lil more belly. I sometimes make Coyotes with out bolsters the Paisanos always have bolsters. This pic shows a lot. Three Coyotes and four Paisanos. The Coyotes are the silver colored blades and the Paisanos the dark colored blades. It also shows how much variety there is with in a model, not just between models.

oLJWRWe.jpg


Handle material will make a big difference on circumference and size of the handle. Jigged bone scales would be a lot thinner than elk, wood in between and sheephorn too. Both of these knives work very well in all my sheath designs.

Hope this helps.
 
Just so happens that I'm working on a batch of blades, some of which Camper was helping with:

AAJzL5x.jpg


So I've got 18 blades on the workbench this morning 4 of which are Paisanos and 3 are Coyotes. I've got the blades all ground and finished and we'll be moving on with bolsters and handles today.

0HJGRhq.jpg


So some of the differences between the two? The Paisano is made in both steels (high carbon and stainless), the Coyote only in the AEB-L stainless. No particular reason just how I do it. Some years back I use to hollow grind the Coyote and a couple of other knives. No particular reason again, just variety. I switched to a full flat grind like the rest of my knives. It was awkward and time consuming as well as a pita for lots of different reasons offering and doing both. Simplified my life just doing the FFG. The Coyote is a straighter blade and the Paisano is a taller blade as well as having a lil more belly. I sometimes make Coyotes with out bolsters the Paisanos always have bolsters. This pic shows a lot. Three Coyotes and four Paisanos. The Coyotes are the silver colored blades and the Paisanos the dark colored blades. It also shows how much variety there is with in a model, not just between models.

oLJWRWe.jpg


Handle material will make a big difference on circumference and size of the handle. Jigged bone scales would be a lot thinner than elk, wood in between and sheephorn too. Both of these knives work very well in all my sheath designs.

Hope this helps.
Can't wait to see them finished 👍🤠
 
Thank you for sharing. Knowing that the Paisano is available in carbon, and the Coyote is not, that gives me something to chew on. I think my initial liking of the Coyote better was because I compared one that was a bit fuller in the handle to one of the smaller Paisanos. Concern for me is how it feels in hand. I hate to have my hand bunched up.
 
Let me ask about sharpening. How do the different steels you use sharpen? Can any of them be sharpened on an Arkansas stone? I do use others, but I enjoy using traditional Arkansas stones.
 
I was also looking at Paisano but now the Coyote looks good too…what am I saying..they both look good. I do know from reading that he runs his AEBL a little higher on the RC scale, which I think adds to its performance. Please correct me if I have that incorrect. I really like the handle on my Sororan belt knife.
 
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Can't wait to see them finished 👍🤠
Got all the bolsters on and the handles. Will be shaping the handles today. They're coming along.
Thank you for sharing. Knowing that the Paisano is available in carbon, and the Coyote is not, that gives me something to chew on. I think my initial liking of the Coyote better was because I compared one that was a bit fuller in the handle to one of the smaller Paisanos. Concern for me is how it feels in hand. I hate to have my hand bunched up.
I consider the Paisano one of my mid sized knives and the Coyote a bigger small knife. Now that's probably as clear as mud. Honestly they are so close I often wonder why I still make both. Well cause they sell. Generally I would say the Coyote is gonna have the lil smaller handle. I carried a Paisano for a couple of years as an EDC and never had a problem with the handle not fitting and I'm pretty big guy. My hands are broad across the knuckles.
Let me ask about sharpening. How do the different steels you use sharpen? Can any of them be sharpened on an Arkansas stone? I do use others, but I enjoy using traditional Arkansas stones.
Both steels resharpen quite easily. I do run them a lil harder than some folks do but that does not make them difficult to resharpen. Yes they respond quite well to Arkansas stones. The secret is don't let them get dull. Touch them up before they need it with a strop.
I was also looking at Paisano but now the Coyote looks good too…what am I saying..they both look good. I do know from reading that he runs his AEBL a little higher on the RC scale, which I think adds to its performance. Please correct me if I have that incorrect. I really like the handle on my Sororan belt knife.
Good deal, glad that Sonoran is working out for ya. Building two in this batch for an order, took the last of those blades I had in the high carbon. The order also includes two Paisanos in the high carbon too. Yes I run my AEB-L at 62-63 RC and the high carbon (26C3) at 63-64 RC. Seems to be a sweet spot for both of these steels.

I did get my blades back from heat treat. I get some pics when I open em up and also explain the testing/certification process some.
 
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So this batch tested at 62 RC according to the certification I received from the heat treater. That's on the outside of the box along with the receipt:

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So they come out of the box mummified like this. The box on the left is my heat treated AEB-L blade box and that's where they will go after getting unpacked:

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Unwrap the mummies and they look like this wrapped with shrink wrap:

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I do all my bevel grinding post heat treat on AEB-L and I'm starting to lean that way on the 26C3 too. AEB-L is bendy prior to heat treat and that can make grinding tricky. Interestingly as far as how tough it is to grind post heat treat as opposed to pre heat treat bout the same. Its just easier to not deal with the bendy.

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In the box they go and then under the bench till needed:

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Back to working on the current batch. These need some trimming. Trimming of excess handle material and pins. A wise man once said anything you can saw away ya don't have to grind off.

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All done with that stage:

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Then we hit the grinders. I start at 60 grit on a flat disc and then go to 120 grit on a slack belt. This is on one of my VFD controlled grinders. This allows me to adjust the speed depending on the material. Ironwood for instance has to be ground at a slower speed so it doesn't burn. After the 120 grit, I go to a 220 grit belt also on a VFD controlled 2'x72" grinder. This one has a rubber 8" contact wheel to work on as well as some slack belt areas.

These are finished up to the 220 grit level:

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These are still to do. I keep them separated by handle type. Horn, bone, elk etc up above and wood below.

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This is done based on the wear of the abrasives. The woods generally prefer fresh abrasives and the others don't care. So I'll do some wood ones while the abrasives are fresh and then do some others. Then change abrasives and repeat. So I finished up yesterday getting all these done to the 220 stage.
 
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