Thanks for those kind comments. I'm sort of fond of 3V myself - great steel!
Here's what I posted elsewhere about the handle design. There is a fair amount of misunderstanding about how it works, primarily because it is not intended for a single grip position.
A common misunderstanding about the handle is the belief your hand must be gripped between the front and rear drops, filling the entire area in between. Not true. In fact if that were the case your hand wouldn't be able to move or work with the knife. The handle has three grip positions. If you just want to do some cutting, you can use the center portion of the handle where the palm swell naturally and securely positions and centers your hand. For finer cutting, you can move your hand forward to just behind the front drop. That give you more control while cutting. If you want to chop, move your hand to the rear so your pinky finger rests against the rear drop, just as it would using a machete - one of the best tested chopping/slashing tools ever. Machete handles typically have a drop pivot at the rear, just like this knife and the power of a machete comes from the wrist snap as the handle pivots against the pinky finger - just as with this handle.
Try this, imagine that the rearmost inch of the handle were removed. What is left would look like most knife handles with a palm swell. For practical purposes you can use the knife as if that rear inch weren't there. If you want to do some heavy chopping though, you'll really appreciate the power you get from that wrist snap and rear pivot point. It makes the knife act like it's ~5" longer, with the added power you get from a longer blade.
We should probably include instructions with these knives, since the handle seeming too large is a common misconception and using it properly is not always obvious.
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