Hossom Millenium Bowie

Feb 14, 1999
I know that many of you on this forum are familiar with Jerry Hossom's handiwork and so I thought I would share pictures of the knife and sheath I received from him today. If the knife looks familiar to you subscribers to Blade magazine, it's because my knife is the one featured in the Fathers day article in the July issue. None of you have seen the sheath, so I took a picture of it and placed it in my PhotoPoint site, also.
Enjoy! http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=234579&a=1742341&p=20637842

Charlie (GOT IT!)
I'll get the hang of this if it kills me.

[This message has been edited by HDCharlie (edited 05-03-2000).]

[This message has been edited by HDCharlie (edited 05-04-2000).]

[This message has been edited by HDCharlie (edited 05-04-2000).]
I don't know what happened to the picture of the knife, but I'll try again.

You all have to stop doing this to those of us who are still on the waiting list. At least, you can't say there's a knife pic, then not show it!


Sorry JB, I was using too much resolution on the knife pic and the file was too big. PhotoPoint wouldn't accept the file and it took me a while to figure out what I was doing wrong.
(and if I can figure out lighting, I'll post good pictures. suppose I should stick to Harleys.)

[This message has been edited by HDCharlie (edited 05-04-2000).]
Hi Charlie, beautiful knife, love the grain in those wood handles! By the way, what kind of wood is it, Cocobola? It's definitely another one of Jerry's masterpieces! I've got about another month for mine to be finished. This waiting is terrible....

Concerning the handles, is the rear finger recession as deep as the forward one? The reason I ask is that I have been shaping some grips lately and coming up with something that looks very similar to what is on Jerry Hossom's bowies. One thing that was immediately obvious was that the rear cutout needed to be shallower for me than the forward one because of the way I was gripping the handle. This is for heavy chopping type work and I was just curious as to how this compared to a MA based grip.

The last pic in the set shows that pretty clearly:

[This message has been edited by Cougar Allen (edited 05-04-2000).]
Cliff, I think you'll find if you make the rear recess shallower (less recess), you'll get more leverage for chopping, but you have to remember that it is just your pinky and ring finger back there. If there is not enough recess, you'll not get a good grip. In cutting and chopping strokes, that is a source of power. Tightening your pinky grip at the last instant is the final touch to delivering a powerful stroke.

Jerry Hossom
Jerry, that is exactly the issue I am thinking about. If I make the recess very deep the grip becomes more secure especially with regard to reverse grip stabs. However this also makes it less comfortable for heavy chopping so I can't have it both ways. No big deal as I rarely do the stabs anyway, I was just curious about the geometry issues.

In regards to the chopping method, I don't generally use any wrist or grip rotations as I prefer to use heavier techniques. With larger blades, I come off of the ground tilting my right side and come down twisting from the hip. This puts most of my weight behind the chop as well as the heavier muscles in the back and hip. If the blades are lighter and will not benefit from this I chop more from the shoulder. If they are lighter still then I will chop from the elbow and use grip and wrist piviots/snaps as you describe to enhance the speed.

With the heavier chops this isn't practical as the impacts are too hard. I have to keep my wrist and grip very rigid, if they are moving during the impact they don't tend to handle it well for very long.

The blade that I am working on is the Busse Basic and while the additional epoxy makes it look sort of like it has leprosy it is working well and is actually starting to remind me a lot of comments you made about your camp knife awhile age. Once I finish on the final design I will probably get the handle redone.