Hot blueing and hamon

Robert Mayo

Robert Mayo

Joined
Oct 13, 2005
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Does anyone know if the hamon will still show after hot blueing a blade.
Thanks for any help on this subject .

Bob
 
Karl
Thanks for posting that's what i wanted to hear. I am working on a cable dagger that will be clayed up. Do you think the cable pattern will show as well? Richard thanks for posting that's where i got the idea from Wil's blueing tutorial.
Thanks Bob
 
Thanks again Karl i will give it a go an see how it turns out at the most it will just mean more sanding!

Bob
 
I'm not sure the hamon would show as such but I'm sure areas of different hardness will show as a different hue perhaps and that should occur in the vicinity of the hamon. Sounds intriguing!
 
it is my understanding of blueing in general that it does its thing by oxidizing the steel and creating an inactive black oxide coating. This is essentially the same thing as what makes dark lines in pattern welded steel when you etch to make the pattern show up, as well as why a hamon becomes so visibly active through etching.

Thus, it would stand to reason that as you blue the blade, the different compositions would take blueing at different rates, thus, becoming viibly distinct through the blueing process.

However, if you blue it thoroughly enough, in theory, the differences would start to fade. Sort of like what happens if you polish a pattern welded or hamon'd blade, as the abrasives level out the surface, and cut off the dark surface, the distinction fades and becomes difficult to see.

Thus, I would say experiment with it. See if you can find a point where the distinctions peak, and if that's not dark enough, take it a little darker. You can always polish it out and start again if you go too far.
 
Robert Mayo said:
Richard thanks for posting that's where i got the idea from Wil's blueing tutorial.
Click to expand...

Hi Bob,

Where can I find this tutorial? I ordered Angier's, Firearm Blueing and Browning from Brownells, but it is rather obtuse :confused:. I sure love the Blueing looks Karl gets.

Thanks, Phil
 
If you really want the edge and hamon to show distinctly,you can try a modified shiage togi after bluing. Take a 1"X1" piece of 2500 grit wet-or-dry and fold it into a 1/2" square. Wet it with windex,use your fingertip to hold it on the blade, and use it to carefully polish the edge and the hamon. Go right to the top of the hamon, but not above it.All strokes should be lengthwise and very short.Follow the shape of the hamon exactly, if possible. This will lighten the edge/hamon and bring out the details in the hamon. You could also try using a Q-tip and Flitz to do the same thing, or as a follow up procedure (If the surface is too white after the 250 grit job, the Flitz will darken it). If you have them and know how to use one a hazuya stone would also work fine.
Stacy
 
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