What I meant by " Beyond reversal" was that if you can remove the blower manifold, and still put it back the way it was before the conversion, that may be the best idea.
An example of the situation you are in would be a Ford Escort ( used merely for an example).
It comes with a 4 cylinder engine that is designed to safely move the mass of the car at highway speeds.The engineers put a lot of work into it to match everything. All the car's steering and brakes, etc. are designed to run at that level. Sure, it would be nice to have faster acceleration , a higher top end, and be able to haul two or three anvils around in the trunk. But putting an eight cylinder, turbo charged monster in the car won't really accomplish much, because the car wasn't designed to go faster, survive higher G-forces, or handle more weight. The car will fall apart or just not handle well with over-sized engine and larger loads. If you really need a work vehicle, get an F-250.
For damascus work, many smiths make a dedicated blown forge. It is often a vertical piece of 12" pipe, usually about 12X18". The inside is lined with 2" insulating wool, which is coated with 1/4-1/2" of satanite, and that is coated with a good layer of ITC-100. The bottom floor is often filled with 2-3" of kitty litter to catch the flux drips. The top is insulated the same as the sides, and is removable for re-lining repairs and kitty litter changes. The ports are arranged on opposite sides, about 6" down from the top. The burner enters at a tangent about 6" up from the bottom. This is a simple build, and since it is used to achieve welding temps, is designed to run wide open.Thermocouples are not needed, and don't survive long at welding temps. The gas and air mix
valves are used to adjust the chamber atmosphere to keep de-carb and scale down. You can get anything you need in forge building from Darren Ellis:
http://forgegallery.elliscustomknifeworks.com/
I don't know what your forge experience level is, but you do know that the forges like yours will need to run for 5-10 minutes to fully heat up to welding temps? This is a function of the refractory chamber needing to slowly come up to full heat. A properly running forge has the chamber sides at the desired temperature.
If you drill out the gas jets, the forge will work better as a blown forge. There is no orifice or jet in a blown burner, just a place where the gas comes in and mixes with the air flow. In a venturi burner, the low pressure created by the high speed gas jet from the orifice draws the air in ( venturi effect). Some venturi burners have a sliding or rotating metal plate that can be moved to adjust the amount of air drawn in. On other venturi burners, the orifice position or size is adjusted to get the proper draw. On a blown burner, you want at least a 1/8" hole or tube to bring in the gas. There should be no jet.....and the position will make no difference, as long as it is at least 6" or so back from the burner flare ( which you don't have either).
Here is a good explanation by Kevin Cashen on the operation and designing of blown burners and forges. Make note of his advise on the air and gas controls.
http://www.cashenblades.com/info/gas_forges.html
Stacy