Hot forming and ht for a2

Cody Hofsommer

Cody Hofsommer

Joined
Dec 2, 2011
Messages
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So I'm going to make some hoof knifes (I'm a farrier by day) and need a little help. I haven used A2 before. It seems to be the go to steel for hoof knives. Probably due to its toughness. They need to have a hook on the end and a curve side ways. They are ground very thin. So...

Can take several heats to get the bends and curves I want/need?

Should shaping be part of the final HT?

Should I shape, cool, then foil, then run a normal HT for A2?

Should I not be married to A2? Lol.

I won't be able to plate quench, obviously.

I might try to make a die to press them with if this works out

Most of the guys (that I know) that are making them are farriers and the ht is WAY short of ideal. Heat it in the forge untill nonmagnetic and call it good. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I don't know about the forging part but I think you would be fine by putting the tang between quench plates and letting them draw the heat from the blade. If its gonna be as thin as you say it should cool plenty fast enough to harden properly.
Once you get it figured out I'd love to hear how it worked out and see a pic.
 
In my experience plate quenching really isn't necessary for A2. It's an air-hardening steel after all, and hardens just fine in still air.

I think plate quenching is of more use in high-alloy steels that would normally be oil quenched or positive pressure quenched (CPM154 & CPM3V for example), or for blades that are very thin and long. If your blade is relatively stout (even if it's thin) I doubt you'll have any issues with a quench in still air.

In fact I've even had no issues doing quenches in still air with the blade in a double layer of foil wrap. Most of my blades are 5/32" thick though, so thinner blade may present issues, but it's likely worth a shot!
 
A2 is usually austenitized at around 1750 degrees. While it is usually forged at higher temperatures, if you're just bending and curving it a bit you can shape it quite a lot at that temperature. I've done it many times, unintentionally...

I'd heat it to 1750, make my tweaks, heat it back up to 1750 (total soak time at temp 15-20 min) and let it air cool to room temp. Temper twice at 700 and you'd have a pretty typical HT for A2 that should give you around HRC 58-59. You'd have a fair bit of scale and decarb to clean up.
 
Cody I hear you on most farriers forge heat treating and calling it good.
Matt L just picked up an Evenheat and is doing hammers of S7, and hoof
knives of Ats-34. Get a hold of him and I'm sure he will have a bunch of
info.
Ken.
 
Thanks guys!

Ken, I was talking to Matt a few weeks ago, he was seeing if I could help him, I didn't! Lol

Nathan, you wouldnt worry about foil or anything? I like the sounds of that, The only thing is that they are chisel ground, so it might be hard to get past the decarb from the side. You are right that there isn't any forging, just bending a belly and a hook. I did one today, heated in the forge, tried to stay under 1800. I was judging by color only so.... After bending to shape, I did a quick spheroidizing anneal. I did my grinding after bending and was able to file it very easily. I was thinking I would start a normal a2 HT now with foil, or could I get away with satinite. I have that on hand.

Thanks for the help
 
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