Hot Tip on Cheap Belts

Joined
Aug 1, 1999
Messages
3,036
Over almost 20 years of making knives, I have had maybe a half dozen or so belts break on me. Most were Hermes that seem to deteriorate with time and any atmospheric moisture. Today, a 36 grit belt from Industrial Abrasives broke, removing the surface of one fingernail. Clearly it could have been worse, and has in the past. A fresh 60 grit Hermes popped on me once and removed the back of my little finger.

I only use belts from producers other than 3M for finishing handles. All my steel is ground with 3M's best. For hogging off wood or micarta, which clog belts pretty quickly, I use cheap ones and throw them away as soon as they fill up.

The belt which broke today was almost new, and snapped without warning. Some of the time you can hear it coming. There is a brief flapping sound before it cuts loose. 3M's Micron Belts make a lot of noise before they break, but I don't use those since they came out with the Trizact line.

OK so what's the "hot tip"? The tip is that it only hurts for a little while and all wounds heal. Most of this was just to vent my frustration. Thanks for your time.
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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
As you know, Jerry, I'm nursing a wounded thumb myself... so I feel your pain.
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I don't even have an excuse like the belt breaking, though... just pressed my thumb into the belt when I meant to press the blade into it, and got a nice, shiny red flat spot that used to be round! I felt like throwing my grinder on the floor, but settled for cussing at it a bit, something I wasn't prone to do before.
redface.gif


My lesson for the day: That which removes steel, removes flesh even faster!

Ryan


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For the wages of sin is death; but the gift of God is eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord.

Romans 6:23


 
But Tom, if you sell your only belt, how are you going to make knives?
smile.gif


Ryan, all round spots must be hollow ground or they don't count.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com

[This message has been edited by GaKnife (edited 05-23-2000).]
 
When are you guys gonna come around and start buying Carbo Schroder a/o belts from G.L.Pearce Abrasives for $1.70 a pop. I've never had one come off and hit me, and in 4 1/2 years, only had two or three break on me. They're number is 18009380021.

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
Jerry, it was my first day on the job; I'm working on it! Thanks for the encouragement.
smile.gif
(No, really, I mean that!)

L6, those are what I use; I and my thumb can testify that they are very effective!

Ryan

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For the wages of sin is death; but the gift of God is eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord.

Romans 6:23


 
I couldn't agree more with the support for 3M's products. It is rare for me to have such loyalty to a company, but, I can say that I have never used a 3M product that wasn't very good, if not excellent.

RJ Martin
 
Hey L6, 2 or 3 in less than 5 years is not that great! My guess is that you have humidity problems there in Fla. that attacks the adhesive holding them together. I've never had a 3M top of the line belt break, and they wil grind 3-4 times as much steel as any other belts made. I've hollow ground as many as 17-18 large blades in one day with a single belt. Gotta love 'em.

Ryan, if you got that close to the belt and even got into it on your first try, you have the right stuff to make a good knifemaker. Getting past that and understanding that it's all part of the process is half the battle. I'm proud of you lad, keep at it. (I mean that, too)

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
Jerry or anyone for that matter,

Could you pass on some tips to help increase the life of belts. I have been using Norton Hoggers (ceramic/60,120 grit) for the rough stuff, Regalite ceramic in 240, and SC the rest of the way. I plan to buy Trizacts with my next order.
My specific problem seems to be with tapering the tang, especially knocking off the hot rolled scale. I always waste one Hogger in this process. I have been wondering if there is a less costly alternative to removing the scale, or should I consider only buying precision ground?
BTW, I have been grinding a bevel on the edge of the tang to add some life to the belts.

TIA,
Brett

[This message has been edited by Kaos (edited 05-23-2000).]
 
Kaos, if you hollow grind a wide groove down the middle of the tang, before you taper it, I think you'll find the whole process goes faster and uses fewer belts. This was a tip in the Loveless book that I have been grateful for for many years.

I use 3M, 36 grit, Orange Regalites for all my rough grinding.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
Jerry,
I concur. I have been won over by the 3M products as well. I have been turned onto the orange ceramics as well. About the only Norton belts I use any longer are the 120 and 220 grit "Norton blue" belts.

I am TOTALLY sold on the Trizact line.
They are the best, bar none, for finishing up.

It is quite possible that the abrasives industry, above all, has affected our trade, craft, cottage industry or whatever you want to call it more than anything else over the past few years. Sure there are the newer blade materials but all in all, abrasives have had more impact on the actual "making of the blade".

C Wilkins
 
So, where do you guys get the trizact belts and how much are they??

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
I'm glad to see that I am not the only one that has problems with the industrial abrasives 36 grit belt.The last one that I had break slapped me square on top of the head and it was brand new,it left a good scratch down the fce also.I no longer use them as I was losing 1-2 out of every order of 5,not good odds.....Just my opinions and findings,Bruce

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The Soul of the Knife begins in the FIRE !!!! Akti # A000223
 
Talked to POP at POP knife supply about the roughers . He said that you have to apply pressure to break the grit on the roughers then they will start cutting just when you think there junk.. Tried it and yes it worked . Hell I want all those belts back that I got rid of . He also mentioned lots of sfm.
As for the pain of a 40 grit belt on a thumb... Like a kidney stone kinda :]


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Web Site At my.ohio.voyager.net/~browzer/bldesmth.html
New Web at www.darrelralph.com
 
I'll have to try those Gene. His site lists only the 3M belts, but I guess the Tru-Grits are just not on there yet.

James Poplin is a good source of info. I'm sure the fact that he gets together with George Herron at least once a month has something to do with that.

I got some flexible green belts from him awhile back in the 120-400 range that are made by Carborundum in Germany, These are the best I've found for shaping and finishing handles. They cut agressively and resist clogging. I wish they made them in 600. Heck, I wish they made a lot of things in 600, but they seem to quit at 400 on most belt lines.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
Thanks guys. I will have to try the Regalite in coarser grits. The 220 grit ones last a long time. I assumed it was because they didn't get as much use as the hoggers.
I tried hollow grinding the center of the tang before. I can't remember why I stopped, but it was probably worrying about grinding too much or too close to the edge.

Brett
 
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