How about a 1/4" thick blade?

savagesicslayer said:
I'd take a 1/4" thick rc-6.A monster hikers knife.(drooling)
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I would too. Or even the RC4 or RC3 like Samhain mentioned. I have a couple 1/4" thick knives and I dont think they are much heavier. I like the feel of a very solid knife. I have no problem cutting with them either.
 
I look for a knife that's not too big for hiking.However I'd like something that could chop on a small scale in case something befell my tomahawk.4-6" is perfect for me.
I carried a TOPS Tracker for a while.(BEAST!!!!!)But I knew nothing I ever threw at that knife would ever break it.I liked the thickness but not the size.
 
A swedge would increase the piercing ability. It would make the knife very usable for Hog Hunting ect....

Tom
Chestnut Ridge Knife shop
 
My interest would lie towards a 9", 3/16" thick blade and, as other said, scales more similar to that of the RAT-7. An option for G10 scales would be welcome as well. I'd also vote for no swedge.
 
I like the 3/16 RTAKII, but the edge is too thin with the full flat grind. If the grind was a sabre or threequarter grind it would make the spine stronger & the edge not so thin, it would still be able to take a razor edge.
 
I would be up for seeing one, but go with a full 10" blade.
I agree on no swedge. Swedge+batoning=not so good.
As far as handles go I like big handles then again I have big hands.
I would like to see a coil and thumb-ramp w/notching.
As far as use-ability goes for those of use who deal with mostly hardwoods (North America & Europe) it would be a work smarter not harder tool. There is no doubt that in the jungle a machete can't be beat its thinner blade devastates foliage and the type of trees found there. However, with hard woods a machete makes you work twice as hard as you have to spend much of you energy getting it unstuck form the tree; thin blades (like machetes) just seem to bind in hard woods very easy.
So I think a 1/4" would certainly have its place.
Cheers
-Ronan
 
I'll throw my vote in for a nice thick knife :thumbup: As for the handle I would like a deep choil and the tang to extend a bit out so I could do some light hammering. Blade length should not drop below 9" and not be over 10.5", and plain edged.
 
I think there is definatly room in the RAT line for a couple of 1/4" thick knives. A 7" and a 9" would fit the bill.
 
I think an interesting knife in 0.25 thickness would be a 7.5-8.5 incher in uncoated D2 with a full convex or a 1095 coated scandi convex grind.

I think one of the best and toughest knives on the market is Bark River's Bravo-1, but it is spendy for the average joe. It's also not a chopper.

I am not advocating copying it, but that mix of spine width, a decently penetrating tip, and laser like zero degree sharpness is a fantastic combination.

So make a bigger knife with that mix of design cues that is more affordable and in the chopper class.

The Lapps designed a great chopper style called the leuku. It's weakness is in its traditional stick tang design. You guys aren't bound by the past. I imagine a 8" bladed (~13 OAL) scandi convexed full tang blade would be both heavy enough and a formidable chopping knife with the right handle and would still be a fantastically sharp knife after a touch up.

I have never seen the sense of .25 inch stock in a flat grind. The edge is usually left too thick for decent cutting and if thinned out, it kind of undermines the rationale of all of that supporting steel behind a now weakened edge profile. The convex or scandi convex grinds yield substantial strength, a fine edge, natural wedging action on chopping or batoning, and come complete with a built in sharpening angle that is almost impossible to screw up.

I urge RAT to look into a designing a modernized full tang leuku with an ergonomical and scaled handle that would not be overweight, have a really good chopping profile for the length and weight, easy to restore to razor sharp, and be completely different from the existing RAT products so as to not cannibalize sales between the two lines.
 
Have you ever hefted one of the old Gerber BMF's?
10" blade, but very well balanced with it's padded heavy grip.

I've used mine to cut an 8" thick dead cedar into firewood. A big RC-6A would be very interesting ~ ; - )
 
I/4" in a RAT-7 and an RTAKII... and the RAT-7 with a little wider blade with a clip point.
 
I too wouldn't mind a Rat-7 or Rat-5 in 1/4" thickness. I like thick spined knives for batoning. Maybe a special edition run or something.
 
There are plenty of sharpened prybars out there. I like my knives light and fast. I'd like something like a RAT-7, with the same handle, but a 9" blade. It you do go to 1/4" thick, make that an 8" blade. Keep it a full flat grind, though, to keep the weight down. Just my .02.
 
Horn Dog said:
I'd like something like a RAT-7, with the same handle, but a 9" blade.
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I believe that's called the RTAKII.

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The RTAKII grip is considerably larger than the RAT5/7 grip..

I'd still like to see a 1/4" RAT Chopper, but not as a replacement for the RTAKII (or RC version of it!)
 
I would love a 1/4 "thick rat I have been in the market for a chopper that will allow me to afford food. I hear many great things about rat cut and 1/4" flat ground blades are usually not too heavy but I am a big guy so a little extra weight isn`t a big deal a downturned handle a little like a kukri and a birds head pommel would be sweet I like to feel like it would take a truck to knock my knife out of my hand .(9" is good but 91/2" is better) thanks
 
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