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The title basically says it all I was just curious how you (Nathan) did it? and what do you do with them if they lose there shape?(from allot of use)
Thanks
DR....
Thanks
DR....
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how are Nathans radiused are platens made?
- Thread starter Daniel Rohde
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Why don't you send him a message?
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I believe he has some vids up that show how he makes them.
Nathan the Machinist
KnifeMaker / Machinist / Evil Genius
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I documented the process in a WIP thread four years ago. this was the first run: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/775745-Machining-WIP
Yes, like anything in an abrasive environment they wear out. This last batch came in at HRC63-64, which is pretty hard, but nothing in comparison to grinding grit.
I get 100's of blades on hard steel platens, but my grinding conditions may be different than yours. I recommend avoiding grinding conditions that lead to accumulated grinding grit build up.
If you see black gunk building up on the platen it's building up on the inside of the belt too. This contains a mix dry lubes and accumulated grit and it will cut almost anything. Belts designed for centerless grinding aren't intended for use on platens. Belts designed to be run dry aren't designed for damp work pieces.
I recommend using a flat platen or a wheel to rough in the grind and finish it on the radius platen to maximize its life. If you use it rough, profiling for example, you can expect accelerated wear. In my shop, mine get treated like fine tools and they develop a mirror finish over time and wear very slowly. I grind freehand, without a rest which tends to avoid hot spots.
Radius platens run hot. The 36 is the hottest, the 72 is almost flat. You should run a chiller or run slow to prevent overheating.
edit: flat platens can be re-flattened, but radius platens can not easily be reworked. I try to make stuff that lasts as long as possible, but at some point anything will eventually wear out and need to be replaced.
Yes, like anything in an abrasive environment they wear out. This last batch came in at HRC63-64, which is pretty hard, but nothing in comparison to grinding grit.
I get 100's of blades on hard steel platens, but my grinding conditions may be different than yours. I recommend avoiding grinding conditions that lead to accumulated grinding grit build up.
If you see black gunk building up on the platen it's building up on the inside of the belt too. This contains a mix dry lubes and accumulated grit and it will cut almost anything. Belts designed for centerless grinding aren't intended for use on platens. Belts designed to be run dry aren't designed for damp work pieces.
I recommend using a flat platen or a wheel to rough in the grind and finish it on the radius platen to maximize its life. If you use it rough, profiling for example, you can expect accelerated wear. In my shop, mine get treated like fine tools and they develop a mirror finish over time and wear very slowly. I grind freehand, without a rest which tends to avoid hot spots.
Radius platens run hot. The 36 is the hottest, the 72 is almost flat. You should run a chiller or run slow to prevent overheating.
edit: flat platens can be re-flattened, but radius platens can not easily be reworked. I try to make stuff that lasts as long as possible, but at some point anything will eventually wear out and need to be replaced.
Last edited:
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i love my 48" and treat it poorly but i do flat grind first then use it to hollow out grinds. it gets so hot at times i spray water on it and its gone. i have one of the eearly ones and it does have a bit of scorring in the face you woudl never know it on the blade