How are you measuring your edge thickness?

[REK Knives]

This isn't exactly right. If your measuring right at the transition point (primary to secondary bevel) the edge sharpened at 15dps will be thicker than the 20dps as the transition has moved further up the blade. However if your measuring a set distance from the edge somewhere within the sharpened edge than the 15dps will be thinner than the 20dps.

Another way of thinking of it is to think of a true scandi grind. The tbe is very thick because its so high up the blade but the cutting edge is extremely sharp as its only about 7dps or so. The tbe say 0.002 from the edge is very thin.

That was the exact point I was getting at Scott... You can't just say "this knife is .010" bte so it will CUT"... You must either do as you say and measure a set distance behind the apex OR specify edge angle. The reason I go with the latter is because more people are familiar with edge angles than a certain thickness at a certain distance from the apex - plus, there's no standard (.020", .060", etc).

A scandi grind may cut well compared to some knives (they are normally about 10-11 dps in my experience), however, if you take a full flat grind on the same stock thickness and same secondary angle, even a thick bte will cut insanely better than the scandi grind.

Your point about 15 vs 20 dps and thickness bte is a great point for someone who is an end user though... but as knife makers we can set up the edge and grind how we want... That's one reason I always grind my edges in part way through the grind (not at the end like most makers) at at specific angle... Because then I can dial in the shoulder thickness perfectly. Why is this? Because of the cutting ability order (below).

Cutting ability is determined in the following order from greatest importance to least (from my experience at least):

Edge angle (single most important factor, other than sharpness of course) > thickness behind the edge at the transition > grind type > grind height > stock thickness.

Pretty much all of the above should be specified when selling a knife imho.

 

[scott kozub]

I use digital calipers and measure at the transition point from the primary to secondary bevel. It's important to specify what the edge angle is at when you do measure though... An edge .010" thick at 20 dps will be much thicker than an edge .010" thick at 15 dps. Most people miss this point.

This isn't exactly right. If your measuring right at the transition point (primary to secondary bevel) the edge sharpened at 15dps will be thicker than the 20dps as the transition hased moved further up the blade. However if your measuring a set distance from the edge somewhere within the sharpened edge than the 15dps will be thinner than the 20dps.

Another way of thinking of it is to think of a true scandi grind. The tbe is very thick because its so high up the blade but the cutting edge is extremely sharp as its only about 7dps or so. The tbe say 0.002 from the edge is very thin.

 

[scott kozub]

That was the exact point I was getting at Scott... You can't just say "this knife is .010" bte so it will CUT"... You must either do as you say and measure a set distance behind the apex OR specify edge angle. The reason I go with the latter is because more people are familiar with edge angles than a certain thickness at a certain distance from the apex - plus, there's no standard (.020", .060", etc).

A scandi grind may cut well compared to some knives (they are normally about 10-11 dps in my experience), however, if you take a full flat grind on the same stock thickness and same secondary angle, even a thick bte will cut insanely better than the scandi grind.

Your point about 15 vs 20 dps and thickness bte is a great point for someone who is an end user though... but as knife makers we can set up the edge and grind how we want... That's one reason I always grind my edges in part way through the grind (not at the end like most makers) at at specific angle... Because then I can dial in the shoulder thickness perfectly. Why is this? Because of the cutting ability order (below).

Cutting ability is determined in the following order from greatest importance to least (from my experience at least):

Edge angle (single most important factor, other than sharpness of course) > thickness behind the edge at the transition > grind type > grind height > stock thickness.

Pretty much all of the above should be specified when selling a knife imho.

Fully agree. I like to take then to as close to zero as possible and sharpen back as required.

One for sure is that most commercial knifes are way to thick.

 

[Natlek]

Fully agree. I like to take then to as close to zero as possible and sharpen back as required.

One for sure is that most commercial knifes are way to thick.

That was what i do for thin kitchen knife from 1.2519 steel i make ..BUT you can t do that on ANY knife in ANY steel ..................